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Getting Torin 2 ton engine hoist....excited...what things should I check when I pull the engine up?


bgrieves1

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Apr 22, 2025
Messages
79
City
Missouri
Vehicle Year
1997
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Hello guys. Still recovering emotionally after realizing how bad my *trusted mechanic* ripped us off on this 1997 Ford Ranger xlt 4.0 4wd. The truck could be worse, but it could be better. On a positive note, we have bought a Torin 2 ton engine hoist and I plan to pull this engine. I know I need to replace the rear main seal. And I know I need to check the engine mounts and transmission mounts. Clean the engine....caked with oil from the rear main seal.
Look for any other leaks, problems. Any other things I need to add to the list while I'm pulling this engine? I'm wondering how hard this will be. I've been watching youtube. I guess I will find out. May be a while before I actually do this, so patience please. Moving. Trying to educate myself in the meantime. Thanks for any input God bless. I'm excited about this.
 
So, I will say that the motor comes out easier with the hood, upper intake and fan removed. Pull the rad for more room, but if you’re careful you don’t have to. Make sure all electrical connections are unplugged, pull the bolts for the Y-pipe to manifolds, pull the starter and get the torque converter nuts off (you do that through the starter hole, there are 4 of them, have to turn the motor over and I do that by turning the crank bolt on the front of the motor with a big ratchet or breaker bar, easier to leave that behind so you don’t have to mess with the seal on the trans), motor mount bolts, front accessory drive (you can leave AC and power steering in the motor bay usually so you don’t have to disconnect it unless you have to service it too).

Also, I’m going to be pulling a 4.0 out of a buddy’s 98 Ranger in the near future. I’m gonna try to get some video. But we pulled the core support because it was rotten which gives even more room for pulling a motor.
 
Oh thank you very much lil Blue Ford. I will reference this. I do not have a working AC. It was charged with Freon and worked for a short time. So I'm suspecting a Freon leak. With all the other stuff to fix, I've decided I can live without AC this summer. Are the motor mounts the hardest things to unbolt in this process?
 
Oh thank you very much lil Blue Ford. I will reference this. I do not have a working AC. It was charged with Freon and worked for a short time. So I'm suspecting a Freon leak. With all the other stuff to fix, I've decided I can live without AC this summer. Are the motor mounts the hardest things to unbolt in this process?
Usually the four bolts for the Y-pipe to the exhaust manifolds are the worst. The bellhousing bolts aren’t particularly fun either, although if you are willing to pull the carpet/vinyl floor back, there’s a pan on top of the transmission that you can unbolt that gives you better access. The 4 bolts for the torque converter are more annoying than difficult.

Getting the fan off the front of the motor can be a headache although I found a tool awhile back that is the slickest thing for it. It’s currently up at my buddies though.
 
@bgrieves1
Take a ride to the hardware store to purchase a set of Grade 8 or harder bolts/nuts/washers to use with the chains. The one time I didn't have them on hand, my buddy and I saw my engine drop ½ a foot to the ground as a non-Grade 8 bolt failed. It could have been over our heads...one of my luckiest days breathing.
 
Thank you. We just got a Torin 2 ton engine hoist. Do we need an engine balancer?
 
Thank you. We just got a Torin 2 ton engine hoist. Do we need an engine balancer?
You don’t need one, but it makes things easier, although the threaded adjustment ones end up against the firewall. When I get some free time I want to work out a solution for that
 
I've seen one for 35 on Facebook. I will shop around for one thank you
 

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