Gen 1 Standard Cab Install

[Ranger#1]

as long at the spade terminal grounds out your ok. and yes you w3ant the shortest grounding possable. how ever depending on how its all set up. having slack and being able to move things is nice.

side note you want your wire to be as short as you can for resistance in the circuit reasons. how ever every extra foot of 4 gauge wire adds .0002485 ohms of resistance. and please take note of the decimal lol. its not gonna matter really. just more can get caught on things and get in the way vers adding ohms.

another side note 22guage ohms per foot is .01614 so that could add up a bit depending on what your doing lol

whats that compared to the loss in frame rails in other words full length 4 ga ground vs frame ground

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

from my ground stud that goes into the jump seat bolt holes (into the body) to the negative battery post i have 0.00 ohms of resistance (as checked with my multimeter on the 20k scale), so i doubt going through the frame rail would be much different (i have all new battery cables and grounds. wheres those pics at man? its been so long since i saw the wires in a gen 1 dash i can barely picture what the plugs look like.

 

[baxtej44]

i'm getting about 1000 on my DVM on my red wire and about 650 or so on my yellow wire, both with the truck running

good, bad, ugly? i had the red terminal of my DVM on the wires in question (where i had them twisted together) and the black terminal on the radio harness ground

i believe that was on the 2000k setting, but i would have to check, sorry i'm short on time gotta work in 7 minutes lol

here's some pics:

 

[4x4fun]

whats with the three blue ones wired together? and then figure out your ground you should be ok.

 

[4x4fun]

whats that compared to the loss in frame rails in other words full length 4 ga ground vs frame ground

in simple terms the thicker the cable the less ohms if has per foot. and that ohms per foot differs for each material. IE 0gauge copper wire will have a different ohms per foot then 0gauge alum, sliver, or gold. Iv never used steel wire so if you really wanted to know id have to look it up. im not that good. lol
but look at the thickness of your frame and think about how thick of cable it would be if you mushed in into a cable 00g???, 000G???? so even tho its steel. i would have to think its a lot less just due to the size.

 

[baxtej44]

whats with the three blue ones wired together? and then figure out your ground you should be ok.

remote turn on, and the two blue w/ white stripe wires from the radio and the harness adapter...

that says system remote control on the radio and the harness adapter so i put those together.

the plain blue, with no stripe, says power antenna on the harness adapter manufacturer info

 

[4x4fun]

remote turn on, and the two blue w/ white stripe wires from the radio and the harness adapter...

that says system remote control on the radio and the harness adapter so i put those together.

the plain blue, with no stripe, says power antenna on the harness adapter manufacturer info

the solid blue one is the one you ran to the amp. (the one that goes past the gray harness in the pic)
the blue/w coming from your HU is the remote lead.

^^^^^connect these two and just these too^^^^^^^

idk how why that other blue/w is tied in to thoes two but it shoudnt be

 

[baxtej44]

the solid blue one is the one you ran to the amp. (the one that goes past the gray harness in the pic)
the blue/w coming from your HU is the remote lead.

^^^^^connect these two and just these too^^^^^^^

idk how why that other blue/w is tied in to thoes two but it shoudnt be

why shouldn't it be? not getting smart (if it sounds like that, cuz to me it kinda does lol)... but if you say so, i know i can trust you. should i just cap off the blue w/ white wire coming from the harness adapter with a wire nut?



by the way, are those readings from my DVM correct that i posted above?

 

[4x4fun]

why shouldn't it be? not getting smart (if it sounds like that, cuz to me it kinda does lol)... but if you say so, i know i can trust you. should i just cap off the blue w/ white wire coming from the harness adapter with a wire nut?



by the way, are those readings from my DVM correct that i posted above?

lol well its not working now is it. lol

your truck never had an amp. so would would be the reason you need to tie in a "remote turn on" into the OEM system, if there was never anything to "turn on " in the first place. yea just cap it off.

about your DVM readouts. you could have some ohms showing up. there rain thur a fuse block, and common hots and all sorts of stuff that can add ohms to a circuit

 

[baxtej44]

lol well its not working now is it. lol

your truck never had an amp. so would would be the reason you need to tie in a "remote turn on" into the OEM system, if there was never anything to "turn on " in the first place. yea just cap it off.

about your DVM readouts. you could have some ohms showing up. there rain thur a fuse block, and common hots and all sorts of stuff that can add ohms to a circuit

ya i suppose haha.

well i should be getting a reading from those, since they are power wires, what setting should the reader be on and what readings should i be getting? just don't want to hook up some faulty wires to a head unit just to find out it still doesn't work

 

[4x4fun]

ya i suppose haha.

well i should be getting a reading from those, since they are power wires, what setting should the reader be on and what readings should i be getting? just don't want to hook up some faulty wires to a head unit just to find out it still doesn't work

you also didnt need the two illumination wires but there there.

and you should get some from the 12v's but i wouldnt test them for ohms but 12vdc. thats the more important thing to look for.

 

[baxtej44]

you also didnt need the two illumination wires but there there.

and you should get some from the 12v's but i wouldnt test them for ohms but 12vdc. thats the more important thing to look for.

ok i will check that out tomorrow


so i don't need the following:
illumination wires
dimmer wire
power antenna wire
remote turn on wire

all from the harness adapter... thanks!

 

[4x4fun]

ok i will check that out tomorrow


so i don't need the following:
illumination wires
dimmer wire
power antenna wire
remote turn on wire

all from the harness adapter... thanks!

yes

 

[Pistons23]

the remote turn on and power antenae wire will do the exact same function. either one will work. pick one and cap the other off. its the system remote control wire you dont need unless you have steering wheel controls.

 

[4x4fun]

the remote turn on and power antenae wire will do the exact same function. either one will work. pick one and cap the other off. its the system remote control wire you dont need unless you have steering wheel controls.

lol watch out for that. some will turn the ant wire off when you switch to cd mode.