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Gas Mileage


Just want to clear the air for the guys that didn't understand what I was trying to say... (I could be wrong though)
It's simple aerodynamics... a soft surface that is allowed to flex against wind resistance will absorb energy, transferring it to your truck and therefore increase drag rather than a hard surface that doesn't yield. Next, your AC doesn't only cycle in "defrost", it cycles the entire time it's being used, I'll go plug mine in and take a video to prove it to you if you're having trouble understanding that.
4x4's have extra weight/shit which some parts are always turning or engaged rather than a 2WD, that's what I meant about "linkage" (front axle, hubs, transfer case). From what I've seen, a 5spd should kill a automatic transmission in mpg, so getting a 4x4 with an auto transmission just sucks if you expect to get "better" mpg.
As for tires, mine are WEATHERED 31x10.5 all terrains (Not small tires) and like I said... weathered tires tend to have weak side walls witch makes them sag, creating a larger surface for you vehicle to push... push a 20lbs ball down the street along side a 20lbs bag of sand, see what I'm say
:icon_cheers:

A soft tonneau cover doesn't flex in the wind at all(well, a tiny tiny bit but not enough to matter), they have bows in them and keep their shape.... by having a 100lb hard tonneau cover, the weight will probably give you worse mileage. Obviously the compressor moves when you have the ac on! We were talking about using the heat, it will turn on when its in the defrost mode. It will not turn the compressor when its on the floor mode or vent. If your compressor is turning all the time even when your ac is off, your compressor clutch is probably not working right, and if that were true, that would cost you gas mileage even if you unplugged it! An old tire does not get saggy either, the rubber may get harder and weather checked, but it will not get" saggy side walls" especially with the air pressure you said you're running. All tires will mushroom out at the side walls towards the contact patch of the tire especially with a larger side wall (a truck tire compared to a low profile sport tire). Also, linkage is the wrong term for drive train stuff like diffs and transfer cases and drive shafts. When you refer to it as linkage, you confuse everyone. Thank you for saying what you were talking about, and yes, rotating weight and vehicle weight do have a lot to do with it. But the only thing extra that turns when you have manual hubs on a 4x4 ranger is the transfer case, the drive shafts and axles stay still while in 2wd. Ride height is a factor too and yes driving habits, as well as a ton of other crap. And a stick gets better mileage because it doesn't lose power by driving pumps, that draws power away. Plus with a standard, if you coast while still in gear above a certain rpm (say, down a big hill) the fuel injectors shut off completely thus saving gas, an automatic will drop rpm but still use fuel if left in drive. And again, only measure gas mileage with how much gas you refill with!
 
...Obviously the compressor moves when you have the ac on! We were talking about using the heat, it will turn on when its in the defrost mode. It will not turn the compressor when its on the floor mode or vent.

...But the only thing extra that turns when you have manual hubs on a 4x4 ranger is the transfer case, the drive shafts and axles stay still while in 2wd...

The compressor runs when on all settings except just floor or just dash if I recall correctly. If you are on floor and dash or any of the ones that include defrost, it runs the compressor. I'd have to go out and check to be 100% sure, but I seem to remember that's what I had figured out when I got the truck 2 years ago.

As for the 4wd I don't know about other newer Rangers, but my 2000 has full-time locked hubs. Not pulse activated, not manual, just solid. So when I disengage my 4wd, it is still turning the axles and it just disconnects at the t-case. That said, from my research this only brings me down about 1 mpg on the highway and not noticeable in the city, so I'm ok with that.
 
Some people don't like this, but I always unplug the A/C compressor in the winter. I've never had any adverse effects from doing so either. Turning that pig eats gas, and if it's not changing my climate, then I'd rather not be turning it.

I've done it on my Mustang, Explorer, Mountaineer, and Ranger. I have not done it on the Escape though. The F150 is getting it this year.

Couldn't care less what you do to your own truck. That being said, your location might have something to do with being able to disconnect the AC and not notice a problem with defrost, if the air in your area has low humidity most of the time. Here in the northeast, there is often so much moisture in the air that heat only defrost does little to clear the windshield. The AC cycling in defrost mode really does make a difference during these times to aid in being able to see out the windshield. It dries the air out considerably and makes it able to pick up moisture off the inside of the windshield.

For a 1mpg difference, I'll leave my AC hooked up and the control in Vent mode if I don't want AC. I rarely use Heat,or Mix, and only use Defrost when the windshield is fogging up.
 
For a 1mpg difference, I'll leave my AC hooked up and the control in Vent mode if I don't want AC. I rarely use Heat,or Mix, and only use Defrost when the windshield is fogging up.

I honestly only ever use the feet and defrost mode on my truck when it is on, other than that it is off. I haven't noticed any mpg difference between the weeks when it is on or off so I'd say the difference isn't much.
 
My engineering background asside, here are my EXPERIENCES:

Bone stock V6 4.0L with 31's and 3.73's. Drive nice I could get 20.1 mpg's. Drive like I stole it and I'd still get around 16 mpgs. With a hard bed cover too.

Then, 6" and 33's, same motor, same gearing. Drive nice I'd get 15.5-16.1 with mostly freeway driving at 75 mph. Drive bad and get 14.8 :icon_twisted: 265-285 miles on a tank.

Now, no bed cover, same motor, 33'' tires, and 4.88 gears. Drive nice: 19.5 (yay again!). Drive bad: 17.9 (yay). Thats 340 miles on a tank. No bed cover. 400lbs of steel (winch, bumper, sliders ect ect).

20 gallon tank. Burnt out bulb for the check gauge light. Automatic tranny with OD.

And 226,xxx on the odometer :)
 
The compressor runs when on all settings except just floor or just dash if I recall correctly. If you are on floor and dash or any of the ones that include defrost, it runs the compressor. I'd have to go out and check to be 100% sure, but I seem to remember that's what I had figured out when I got the truck 2 years ago.

As for the 4wd I don't know about other newer Rangers, but my 2000 has full-time locked hubs. Not pulse activated, not manual, just solid. So when I disengage my 4wd, it is still turning the axles and it just disconnects at the t-case. That said, from my research this only brings me down about 1 mpg on the highway and not noticeable in the city, so I'm ok with that.

Omg, I feel like punching my self int the head repeatedly! Ac on, the compressor will run, defrost compressor will run, the only other settings are vent(dash) and floor r both of them combined, I should have to say that! Do I have to repeat myself again? Floor and dash does not run the compressor!
 
Omg, I feel like punching my self int the head repeatedly! Ac on, the compressor will run, defrost compressor will run, the only other settings are vent(dash) and floor r both of them combined, I should have to say that! Do I have to repeat myself again? Floor and dash does not run the compressor!

I honestly thought it ran with it set to floor + dash. That said, I'm too lazy to go outside and check, and since it doesn't really matter, I'll go with your word on it.
 
I honestly thought it ran with it set to floor + dash. That said, I'm too lazy to go outside and check, and since it doesn't really matter, I'll go with your word on it.

defrost-runs
dash only-off
floor only-off
floor dash-runs
floor defrost-runs

i know becasue the ac pump is attached to the low speed on my E-fan, and i can hear when it comes on.

with that cleared up, lets focus on things like airflow, engine efficiency and fuel types.

No, the hamburger you just had for lunch wont cost you 1mpg, but your heavy foot will.

simple rules:

reduce drag/friction ~ wash your truck, grease things, change fluids, close up gaps that cause drag, check tire preasure, check bearings, brake drag.

reduce weight ~ clean out your truck, remove spare tire, use lightweight tonneau.

reduce consumption ~ give it less gas to start, stop slower, drive like you 95 and a cops riding your ass (awesome way to not get tickets and great MPG ~ WIN/WIN), allow more air into the engine, reduce the work the engine has to do to move air out.


stop putting 35's on your trucks factory gearing and saying :dunno:

stop racing civics (#1 MPG problem)


and for goodness sake, stop complaining.
 
defrost-runs
dash only-off
floor only-off
floor dash-runs
floor defrost-runs

Just a correction, it does not run on floor dash on the 94 and down interiors. Must've changed that in 95. It only runs on partial or complete defrost settings. Easy to tell, just have to look at the metal contact on the lever and see where it closes the circuit.
 
defrost-runs
dash only-off
floor only-off
floor dash-runs
floor defrost-runs

i know becasue the ac pump is attached to the low speed on my E-fan, and i can hear when it comes on.

with that cleared up, lets focus on things like airflow, engine efficiency and fuel types.

No, the hamburger you just had for lunch wont cost you 1mpg, but your heavy foot will.

simple rules:

reduce drag/friction ~ wash your truck, grease things, change fluids, close up gaps that cause drag, check tire preasure, check bearings, brake drag.

reduce weight ~ clean out your truck, remove spare tire, use lightweight tonneau.

reduce consumption ~ give it less gas to start, stop slower, drive like you 95 and a cops riding your ass (awesome way to not get tickets and great MPG ~ WIN/WIN), allow more air into the engine, reduce the work the engine has to do to move air out.


stop putting 35's on your trucks factory gearing and saying :dunno:

stop racing civics (#1 MPG problem)


and for goodness sake, stop complaining.

Sounds like you know what your talking about. I'll take your advice.
 
Sounds like you know what your talking about. I'll take your advice.


Lol, sorry for the venting. cant tell ya how many times ive gone over the same stuff. i found this info by searching, but 90% of people just take myths and blow them up saying oh i read its true, on the intranet, so it has to be!

:D its easy, reduce whats slowing/weighing down the vehicle, you reduce your fuel usage. i get 21mpg in the city with my 4.0 auto 2wd and 32" tires.

oh, no oil doesnt change your mpg worth a notice. my biggest one was a power programer, boosted hp and mpg, and my E-fan.

depending on what you drive ie. highways city, depends what mods will help you. a tonneau wont help city driving, but an efan will. just like a efan wont help highway, but a tonneau will.
 
my normal drive between va beach and lexington va i get around 22.5 windows up and around 18.7 with windows down. 94 3.0L ext cab soft tonneau cover and under-drive crank pully roughly 89000 miles. gotten as high as high as 26.2 and as low as 13.4 under other circumstances
 
Geez It seems rolling the Windows down wouldn't make that much of a difference. And what is a
Under drive crank pulley?
 

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