Gas filler tube replacement questions

[UrbanRedneckKid]

If it helps, you can also pull the driveshaft for a little more working room.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

 

[twb4525]

Thanks Rev!

If my old eyes do not deceive me, it looks like all the pickup connections are flexible, so I can drop the front of the tank down far enough to get to the band clamp on the filler hose.
Thanks for the effort.

CZ

If it helps, you can also pull the driveshaft for a little more working room.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

I just dropped my tank a few weeks ago because I needed a new tank (the steel ring on top of the tank was rusted out). I also replaced pump/sending unit and filler tube while at it.

yes the lines are flexible to drop the tank. also the wiring harness is long enough too. be careful with the vent tube.

I had to move my driveshaft over to make room to remove the skidplate. I lossened the carrier bearing to move driveshaft.

 

[CaptonZap]

Thank you all for the hints.
I just got the replacement hose today, so the next warm day, I'll get under it.
I have an hundred mile round trip commute tomorrw, so that should get the tank pretty close to empty.
Hopefully, I don't have a problem with rusted bolts that break off when excess torque is applied.

CZ

 

[twb4525]

FYI - you may have to trim the new filler tube a little, so keep the old one as a template. I had to trim mine because it was hitting the bottom of the bed after I installed the tank. (the new tube was a soft rubber and very flexible, as the stock one was rigid and not very flexible) I didn't check and I was in a hurry to get it finished.

(I found this out later the first time I filled up because I could not get any gas into the truck. the filler tube was kinked and wasn't venting right. I got more gas on the side of my truck and on the ground, than in the tank!)

 

[CaptonZap]

FYI - you may have to trim the new filler tube a little, so keep the old one as a template. I had to trim mine because it was hitting the bottom of the bed after I installed the tank. (the new tube was a soft rubber and very flexible, as the stock one was rigid and not very flexible) I didn't check and I was in a hurry to get it finished.

(I found this out later the first time I filled up because I could not get any gas into the truck. the filler tube was kinked and wasn't venting right. I got more gas on the side of my truck and on the ground, than in the tank!)

Yep, I had to trim one and a half inches off the top of the outer hose. Since the innner hose was crimped onto the filler neck, I cut the same amount off the bottom of it, and found a spring that fit inside the inner hose to keep it from collapsing when, as I slid it down, it was forced over against the outer tube.
Like a radiator hose with a spring in it.
Years ago, when I put the utility bed on, and shortened the filler hose, I didn't do anything about the inner hose. When I took it out this time, I noticed that it had a kink in it where it had been pushed against the side of the outer hose. It has always been a pain to fill, since anything over a slow trickle popped the gas pump handle. Now I know why, and it doesn't do it with the new installation.
Thanks all, for the input.
CZ

 

[killj0y]

Just did mine perhaps my pics might help.

I used a winch since the extra stuff I have on made it way too heavy. 5 people could barely lift it last time.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

...did you take your rear bumper off, or mess up the paint below the taillights...?

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

 

[killj0y]

...did you take your rear bumper off, or mess up the paint below the taillights...?

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

nope, worked great, I got the idea sorta vein another member because he mentioned using a bottle jack to lift it just enough. In my case up have a lift so I didn't have a big enough jack but we have a winch we use for several stuff but mostly hanging and skinning deer and stuff. Worked great used it to change my fuel pump abs a few weeks later to change my filler neck I got off ebay