front wheel drive

[Jake 100]

I have a 2001 4x4 I want to flat tow I was wondering if I could just pull the rear drive shaft, make cover for the tail shaft and run in 4 hi AKA ft whl drive , and yes I would have to use the parking brake when leaving the truck

 

[racsan]

while you could, you might have front hub breakage as they arent meant for the entire load like the rear driveline is, not sure why youd need the parking brake as the tranfer case is connected to the transmission and park (or 1st/reverse-manual) would still hold the truck from rolling. Years ago I twisted the rear driveshaft on a jeep CJ -7 . I ran it as a fwd for a week or two before getting a replacement rear driveshaft. It was driveable but on turns could feel the front U-joints binding.

 

[RonD]

Yes, if rear drive shaft is disconnected and transfer case is in 2WD then transfer case chain and gear would still be spinning from always locked front hubs and front drive shaft but not transmission, manual or auto

Transfer case splits power equally in 4WD so I wouldn't see an issue as far as strength of front axle system driving around with FWD only, it will "pull" when cornering just like it does in 4WD normally

You can also add transfer case Neutral switch, so rear drive shaft can stay connected

All Ranger BW1350 or 1354 transfer cases have Neutral, its just not a selection on the electric models, but can be added
Manual transfer case have Neutral on the shifter

If this is just a one off towing job then probably not worth it

Last part number I have for the neutral tow kit is 3L2Z-7H332-AA, I think that's for 2004-2011
Run about $200-$250
And I think Ford does need to change software, so some reprogramming required
Part is discontinued but you can still find them

Its literally just a Green LED and some wire, its the programming part that's needed

 

[adsm08]

Yes, if rear drive shaft is disconnected and transfer case is in 2WD then transfer case chain and gear would still be spinning from always locked front hubs and front drive shaft but not transmission, manual or auto

Transfer case splits power equally in 4WD so I wouldn't see an issue as far as strength of front axle system driving around with FWD only, it will "pull" when cornering just like it does in 4WD normally

You can also add transfer case Neutral switch, so rear drive shaft can stay connected

All Ranger BW1350 or 1354 transfer cases have Neutral, its just not a selection on the electric models, but can be added
Manual transfer case have Neutral on the shifter

If this is just a one off towing job then probably not worth it

Last part number I have for the neutral tow kit is 3L2Z-7H332-AA, I think that's for 2004-2011
Run about $200-$250
And I think Ford does need to change software, so some reprogramming required
Part is discontinued but you can still find them

Its literally just a Green LED and some wire, its the programming part that's needed

The problem with the programming part is that Ford got into a fight with the software vendor and that program is no longer available to us.

 

[RonD]

The problem with the programming part is that Ford got into a fight with the software vendor and that program is no longer available to us.

That's odd, how can they take back software Ford already had?
I can see them saying they won't "support it" anymore. i.e. windows 98 or 2000, lol, but people can still use it, and do

 

[pjtoledo]

Ford is using the software under license from the vendor.
some licenses are permanent, some need renewed at a specified time.
vendors can revoke licenses under certain legal arrangements.

big users do occasionally do get their software/licenses audited.

 

[RonD]

Well that sucks
The 4x4 CMs, 2001-2011 were a known issue, maybe thats why Ford and the vendor had the fallout

 

[Jake 100]

while you could, you might have front hub breakage as they arent meant for the entire load like the rear driveline is, not sure why youd need the parking brake as the tranfer case is connected to the transmission and park (or 1st/reverse-manual) would still hold the truck from rolling. Years ago I twisted the rear driveshaft on a jeep CJ -7 . I ran it as a fwd for a week or two before getting a replacement rear driveshaft. It was driveable but on turns could feel the front U-joints binding.

yea the CJ 7 had different type of u joints in the axle

 

[Jake 100]

The problem with the programming part is that Ford got into a fight with the software vendor and that program is no longer available to us.

yea understand that opinion is no longer ,also there was a guy that made a manual thing but u have to get under the truck to operate it also no longer available

 

[RonD]

Behemoth drivetrain also had a electric to manual stick shift kit, but it looks like its no longer available

Website is here: https://behemothdrivetrain.com/

They may still have it, it was pretty slick setup
It bolted on to transfer case in place of the motor and then had cable operated stick shift similar to stock manual transfer case stick shift WITH Neutral
Can't remember the price, want say $200-$250

 

[4x4junkie]

I would have to wonder if the front drive spinning without the rear also spinning would damage the t-case (the case has an internal oil pump that spins only when the rear output spins). Short tows (less than 5-10 miles or so) likely wouldn't be an issue, but I'm not sure flat-towing it behind an RV on a trip would be good for it.

Instead of removing the rear driveshaft, remove the shifter motor from the back of the t-case, and then rotate the shifting shaft on the t-case to the neutral position (180° from the 2HI position, between 4HI & 4LO), and then you should be fine. Just be sure to put it back to 2HI before you reinstall the motor, or it won't fit over the shaft.

 

[RonD]

+1 Thats a good point

Front drive shaft and chain spinning should be splashing oil about but without rear drive shaft hooked up there would be no transfer case oil pump, and that's not a good idea

So this is not a good idea, I stand corrected

 

[Jake 100]

I would have to wonder if the front drive spinning without the rear also spinning would damage the t-case (the case has an internal oil pump that spins only when the rear output spins). Short tows (less than 5-10 miles or so) likely wouldn't be an issue, but I'm not sure flat-towing it behind an RV on a trip would be good for it.

Instead of removing the rear driveshaft, remove the shifter motor from the back of the t-case, and then rotate the shifting shaft on the t-case to the neutral position (180° from the 2HI position, between 4HI & 4LO), and then you should be fine. Just be sure to put it back to 2HI before you reinstall the motor, or it won't fit over the shaft.

yea I rigged up a deal to do that but I have to under the truck to do it

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

You might keep an eye out for a manual t-case too, that would make it easiest to flat tow.

 

[racsan]

if the front output is turning then the rear output should be turning too, most t-cases use a wide chain between front & rear outputs, every once in a while youd have a broken or stretched chain back in the day. Don’t really hear of that anymore