Front Spring Mount fubar

[Brian1973]

Seems the mount on passenger side has rusted on the old '91. Looks like it was riveted into the frame... ideas? Take to a metal fabricator I guess? Will have to take off tire, compress spring and remove shock too I think. Grrrr

 

[adsm08]

You say all that like you think it is a big job.

Check out ATS. When I needed a set last year they were the only place I found making them new.

http://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/...AND_RIGHT_SIDE_FRONT_SINGLE_SHOCK-2144-0.html


Yes, you have to take the wheel off, but the tire can stay on the wheel. You might even have to open up a brake line.

You are also correct about the need to compress and remove the spring, and the fact that it is riveted to the frame. Nobody bolts their frames together, they all get riveted at the factory, and then when we have to fix them 20 or 30 years later bolts get used.

 

[Brian1973]

Awesome, thank you!

Yes, the wheel removal and other stuff isn't too bad, cept the mount is now pushed up into the engine compartment. Hoping hasn't hurt anything else. But grinding off the old rusty mount is gonna be a little challenging... Just grind off rivets and that is where bolts will go?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If you don't have the tools or the want to DIY, then pretty much any mechanic could do the job. There's lots of people on site that have done the job, myself included. If you decide to DIY, you can PM me after doing some research on site.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Awesome, thank you!

Yes, the wheel removal and other stuff isn't too bad, cept the mount is now pushed up into the engine compartment. Hoping hasn't hurt anything else. But grinding off the old rusty mount is gonna be a little challenging... Just grind off rivets and that is where bolts will go?

Use a grinding wheel and cut a cross in the rivet head, avoid touching the frame. Use a cold chisel and heavy hammer and pop off the rivet heads. Use a punch and hammer the rivets thru the frame. Use a 1/2 step drill and drill out the new bracket to match the frame, start with drilling and bolting one hole at a time. Once two holes are bolted you can drill out all the holes at the same time, then bolt together. Find Grade 5 bolts long enough that the smooth shank fits thru both frame and bracket, if the shank is too long add some washers to make up the difference. Use a locking nut [deformed head].
There is a few parts of my build thread [see link below] where I have pictures and show how I dealt with a rusty frame.

 

[adsm08]

Use a grinding wheel and cut a cross in the rivet head, avoid touching the frame. Use a cold chisel and heavy hammer and pop off the rivet heads. Use a punch and hammer the rivets thru the frame.

Screw that, find a friend with an acetylene torch.

Yeah, once you have the rivets out the bolts go in those holes.

I hope for your sake the coil buckets are all that is bad. When I restored my Ranger last year the passenger side, which was the one that really needed replaced, tore a hole in the frame when it came off.


Well, the hole was already there, taking the bucket off just made it bigger.

As for the spring, jack the truck up under the beam, get the wheel off, and then set a jack stand under the frame by the fuel filter and let the jack out. The spring will go to full droop.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I hope for your sake the coil buckets are all that is bad. When I restored my Ranger last year the passenger side, which was the one that really needed replaced, tore a hole in the frame when it came off.


Well, the hole was already there, taking the bucket off just made it bigger.

Same as my race truck. I made a plate to bolt on over the weak spot and its still holding. I'm not taking big air tho, its a groomed track.

 

[Brian1973]

Thanks for all the suggestions! Rented a coil spring compressor from AZone but thinking I need the strut spring compressor... then again, adsm08's idea of putting jack under a different area of frame might allow me to use the coil spring compressor that needs to have access to the top of the spring... slowly getting to it... luckily other trucks to use Do have access to a torch! Will try the grinding and punching first...

 

[adsm08]

YIKES! That is worse than mine was.

 

[adsm08]

Keep in mind that the process of crimping the rivets mushrooms them, so if they aren't ground down flush with whatever you are trying to knock them out of they won't come nicely.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Keep in mind that the process of crimping the rivets mushrooms them, so if they aren't ground down flush with whatever you are trying to knock them out of they won't come nicely.

Yes! The holes in the frame and bracket don't always line up. So knocking ALL the heads off flush then removing the bracket may make it easier to punch out the rivets. may also have to do some more grinding on the ones where the hole was offset a lot.

 

[Brian1973]

thinking driver's side seems ok... perhaps passenger side wears faster because of the AC dryer above it?!?

 

[Curious Hound]

Before you bother trying to track down a spring compressor, try ADSM's method. Allowing the spring to go to full droop, you can remove it without compressing. That's what I did when installing my suspension lift. With the shock disconnected, you should get enough travel for the spring to fall out of the bracket.

Picture at the bottom of this page showing jack stands supporting frame.

 

[adsm08]

thinking driver's side seems ok... perhaps passenger side wears faster because of the AC dryer above it?!?

No, the passenger side goes faster because the power steering stuff is all on the driver's side. Power steering is also known as "automatic corrosion inhibitor system". It usually kicked in around 50K miles on 80s vehicles.

 

[Brian1973]

Soooo, making sure I'm not missing your point... haha. You think the power steering slight leaks keeps things from rusting on that side? I suppose that is possible even though mine doesn't seem to ever loose fluid... I'm guessing maybe the passenger side is just more susceptible to staying wetter longer because of something...