Front brake problems - wheel speed sensor?

[clayton256]

I've got a brake problem I'm trying to solve. I have an '06 4x4. When turning to the right and stopping (i.e. pulling into a parking space) the pedal gets mushy the last 2-3 feet and these a squishing noise. All my searching here and googling tells me it's probably a front wheel speed sensor. But which one is it, right or left? At $150 each I don't want to just throw parts at it. I ohmed both sensors and I get about 540 ohms on the right and 550 on the left. AFAIK, at 440 ohms max this indicates both are bad, right?

I'm also curious. If the sensor is going bad how come the ABS light doesn't come on? I don't have a code reader so I can't check but will there be error codes without the ABS light coming on?

Please accept my apologies if this has been beat to death already but I tried finding answers before posting.

Thanks of your help,
Mark

 

[clayton256]

Ok, so I didn't get any replies so I jumped in with both feet. I replaced the front right wheel speed sensor. It was easier than I thought it'd be. Then I took it for a quick test spin. Down the hill I went, through the fence and through the side of the barn... just kidding. Replacing the sensor seems to have solved my issue. I still don't have a code reader so I still don't have answers to those questions. I hope this helps other down the road.

 

[kcm1582]

I have the same problem with my truck, and yes it is a weak wheel speed sensor.

What happens is there is a tone ring under the sensor that induces an ac voltage signal into the sensor that is read by the abs system. When the sensor gets weak, it won't pick up that signal till a certain speed, in my case 5 mph. When wheel speed drops below that while stopping, the abs system reeds 0 mph to that wheel and actual speed from the others, it tricks the abs into thinking the wheel locked up and kicks on the abs system, which is what you feel in the pedal. This is proper operation for the abs system so there will be no codes thrown.

 

[adsm08]

Yeah, KCM nailed the description.

The only true way to check which sensor is bad without replacing them is to watch the live data from the sensors during an event.