Framing question... would like some input...

[Nhaz]

At a 10' Span even for light stuff you should use at least 2x6 for the simple reason that 2x4's are not thick enough to support even themselves over a 10' span.

Within 6 months they will start to sag. With weight on them faster. should use a least 1/2" plywood for the loft. preferable 5/8's

 

[86ford]

You are pushing the limits of 2x4s by spanning a ten foot distance with them. You should add bracing between them and angled braces from the uprights to the sides of the 2x4s to prevent warping. Your biggest enemy is the warping of the 2x4s due to weight. It is "acceptable" by building codes in my area to use 1/2 inch for roofing so using 1/2 inch should be fine, just dont decide to drop a complete 460 up there and you will be fine.

86

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

You are pushing the limits of 2x4s by spanning a ten foot distance with them. You should add bracing between them and angled braces from the uprights to the sides of the 2x4s to prevent warping. Your biggest enemy is the warping of the 2x4s due to weight. It is "acceptable" by building codes in my area to use 1/2 inch for roofing so using 1/2 inch should be fine, just dont decide to drop a complete 460 up there and you will be fine.

86

No problems with that, I planned my shed to put all of the motors and trannys on the shed floor and keep all of the lighter stuff in the loft. Soon as I can afford to start building my trailrig, the Ranger cab will be out of the shed and on a truck and soon as I get a lean-to built off the one side the garden tractor will be parked out there as well, freeing up a good bit of floor space for other things.

 

[sloue]

i do this for a living . use 2x6 on 16 centers 1/2 ply nailed down will be lots.if you are unsure of the 2x4 put 10 footer on a couple saw horses spread to the dims ions of you shed and lean on it. in shed building , 4 feet is all a 2x4 should ever span.did you block your walls half way up. meaning did you block in between you studs half way up. it will help the lateral support,

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thanks everyone for input, I picked up some 2x6 and 1/2" ply this afternoon. Not enough to do the entire thing yet, but enough that I can make some more progress on my project.

Sloue, all but one of the walls have three sets of blocking in them, and the last one has two sets. I nailed it with the 3 an a half for height. Had to cuz I didn't use ply for the exterior, I nailed roughcut 1" boards for siding running vertical.

 

[sloue]

that will do fine how will you be attaching you loft floor sitting on some sort of a leger i hope.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

that will do fine how will you be attaching you loft floor sitting on some sort of a leger i hope.

I plan to run a 2x2 down to the floor under each end of the 2x6 in addition to nailing both the 2x6 and 2x2 into the stud, since I'm leaving the 2x6 long so it runs past the inside edge of the wall by about 2" or so and I can easily nail it in place.

 

[sloue]

all you need to do is find out where the BOTTOM of your 2x6 will be. get a level line all a round the inside. then nail a 2x4 on flat, the TOP of the 2x4 being on that line. then you can set you 2x6 s up on that 2x4 and nail into you studs and bingo you have a solid floor. run a row of blocking down the center nail that plywood down good and that baby will hold any thing you can lift up there and quite a bit of it to. good luck. make sure your ladders are solid hard to shift gears with broken bones.

 

[Nhaz]

If you plan to nail the 2x6 to the side of the studs, You should at least use Ardox(spiral) nails. If you use 3" screws it will Never come lose. or even wiggle

I know the vast majority of mass produced construction framing uses air powered spikes, yes it works. yes it passes code. yes its cheaper. yes its faster

Screws take longer, screws are more expensive.

Screws are waaay better.

 

[sloue]

If you plan to nail the 2x6 to the side of the studs, You should at least use Ardox(spiral) nails. If you use 3" screws it will Never come lose. or even wiggle

I know the vast majority of mass produced construction framing uses air powered spikes, yes it works. yes it passes code. yes its cheaper. yes its faster

Screws take longer, screws are more expensive.

Screws are waaay better.

i agree 100%

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

The standard drywall screws that everyone uses are very weak in sheer strength though, which is why they are not permitted to be used for most structual applications.

I wish I could use a nailgun for assembling my shed. About the only way I could do that would be if I dragged my compressor and borrowed dad's generator... or bought a gas powered compressor. I say that because I'm a good 600' or so from power. So my nailgun has been the Stanley framing hammer I bought awhile back, one of the california style framers with nail holder and curved handle.

 

[Dangeranger3]

You could always rent a paslode. Theres nothing wrong with swinging a hammer and saving some money though. Do you use your nail holder? Only time I've seen them used was for accuracy contests.

 

[Nhaz]

The standard drywall screws that everyone uses are very weak in sheer strength though, which is why they are not permitted to be used for most structual applications.

I wish I could use a nailgun for assembling my shed. About the only way I could do that would be if I dragged my compressor and borrowed dad's generator... or bought a gas powered compressor. I say that because I'm a good 600' or so from power. So my nailgun has been the Stanley framing hammer I bought awhile back, one of the california style framers with nail holder and curved handle.

You are right drywall screws are too brittle for structure work.

Drywall screws are designed to hold up drywall Not studs or structure. The heads on them are designed to press the paper of the drywall in to make a indentation for the Mud to cover up(drywall compound) without breaking the paper. So then end product is flat and needs little sanding.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

You could always rent a paslode. Theres nothing wrong with swinging a hammer and saving some money though. Do you use your nail holder? Only time I've seen them used was for accuracy contests.

Rent a Paslode? I got one... it's in the garage right now... right next to the compressor, lol. I know what ya ment though, but no, I didn't really have the funds to go through with renting one of those. Thought about buying one, but... I'll prolly get a gas powered compressor before much longer anyway.

I don't mind swinging a hammer at all. Other than the fact that sometimes a nailgun works considerably better than a hammer. I always used a "framing" hammer (22 oz steel rip claw) or a 20 oz rip claw from Craftsman for work, but when we started building our new house, I finally bought a california style framer. Man does that make a big difference driving nails! I'd never use it for concrete work though, it's good for driving nails, but not so good for pulling and I'd beat the thing to death knocking steel pins loose. I do use the nail holder at times, but I'm not quite as accurate or good with it to want to use it all the time yet. If I did more framing I probably would use it more though.