Frame rail pump delete

[honda34dad]

Thanks again for the helpful insights!

 

[honda34dad]

No, on swapping the gauges, just use correct sender in the tank or fix yours, read here: https://www.fordification.com/tech/fuel-sending-units.htm

You can buy new ones, but not cheap, Google: 1987 Ford Ranger fuel level sender
I just used 1987 because Rangers all used same one that year

For Fuel Level there is just 1 wire from tank to gauge on any year and any model, sender and gauge are grounded separately, so wiring is not the issue
Swapping to an 1989 gauge or cluster would end up being way more trouble that its worth
If you want you can mount another fuel gauge in/under the dash, that uses Ford 1989+ OHMs so you can use an 1989+ sender

Do I need to wire the wires together that are no longer “connected” by way of the frame rail fuel pump. Seems obvious to me that you DO need to but wasn’t sure if there was power going to frame pump separate from the power going to the in tank fuel pump.

 

[RonD]

The rail fuel pump's 12volt wire was tapped(spliced) off the main wire that runs from inertia switch to the gas tank pump, usually pink/black wire
This tap/splice can get corroded
But you can just cut the rail fuel pump's 12v wire and tape it off so it can't short to ground

Other wire at rail fuel pump is a ground, and no longer needed

 

[Uncle Gump]

If you were to connect the two wires that use to go to the frame pump... you would blow a fuse.

I simply taped the positive circuit to insulate it and then taped both wires the the harness.

 

[honda34dad]

Y’all are awesome!!! Thank you so much! Got the new pump/sender assembly and switched out new sender for old assembly. Installing everything tomorrow morning, hopefully, and hopefully one step to marking off another completed project in a project laden project!

 

[RonD]

Test sender/float before installing to see if it seems OK on the gauge, it takes 10 to 15seconds to respond to a new float position, this is so gauge doesn't swing up and down when you go around a corner and gas sloshes around

 

[honda34dad]

What is this? Has fuel leaking out. Pump is working but won’t start. This is before where the frame pump would have been which is now replaced with the fuel filter.

 

[Uncle Gump]

That's the fuel reservoir. That one has a cartridge fuel filter inside. If it isn't broke... there is a seal between the halfs that is most likely leaking.

 

[RonD]

You won't need it any more, it was there to keep the frame mounted high pressure pump primed

Its also only rated for about 20psi fuel pressure, which may be why its leaking now

 

[honda34dad]

Thanks! Guess I need to take it off and connect the two lines. Truck must have figured out it is a project truck and decided to throw all the gremlins at me.

Got the pump installed and the fuel tank at the back of the truck, ready to test it before final install. Go to crank it and all power goes away, cab lights out, won’t crank or even try. “Oh god, what have I done!?!?” After some calming down I decide the battery probably isn’t charged. Put it on the charger and go to bed. Go to get everything set up tonight and found the issue. The plus side cable from the battery terminal got loose from the terminal “clamp”. Fix that and go to test and I hear the pump turn on, yaaaay, but won’t catch and fire off. There is fuel pressure at the schrader valve so that’s good. Time to look at power to the spark plugs next.
Thanks again for all the guidance!

 

[Uncle Gump]

The problem with removing the reservoir...

There are 4 lines... 2 supply (3/8) and 2 return (5/16).

This is why I chose to just remove ALL the factory bits... install what the system needed to function properly and run new lines.

 

[Uncle Gump]

You could use these and short pieces of line to bypass the reservoir.

Dorman 800-191 Nylon Fuel Line Unions - 5/16 In, 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZCF8NE?tag=959media-20

I had those leak when I first connected up my fuel system the the rail. I keyed up and both started leaking.

I just pushed the connections together and gave them a couple twists... then pulled back a bit on the lines to seat the "teeth" on the union. Zero leakage since.

If you choose to go new lines... I have the part numbers I used for all the Dorman fittings.

 

[honda34dad]

Getting 40 psi at the Schrader valve and gettting spark to the spark plug lines/cables. It will turn over, like before and try to start but not starting. Tried starting for 5-10 minutes. Injectors?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Perhaps it's flooded.

Pull a plug and see if it's wet.

 

[honda34dad]

Wish it were that easy. Sadly, pulled a couple plugs and they were bone dry. Time to start looking for a loose wire. Or maybe the injectors are clogged. Always something with a project.