Found The Problem with my 2.0

[RonD]

So from what I just read and understand. If I hook the ported vacuum to the main vacuum on the intake and take the hose from the intake main vacuum hook it up to the distributor it will function the way it is suppose to.

I have a question on the timing I just found out my pistons are 40 over. Because they are 40 over does that change the timing?

40 over raises compression and 87octane can get pingy as compression goes up so you need more advance on the spark to ignite it before compression does, but only if it gets pingy.

Not sure I understand the first part.
If you want to go fast use intake vacuum
If you want better fuel economy used ported.

If you want both get an older ford dual vacuum device: https://www.428cobrajet.org/id-dist-vac-valve
Or this: http://www.allpar.com/fix/engines/cap-valve.html

 

[Mark_88]

Great explanation of the distributor and vacuum RonD...thanks!

Except I don't recall seeing any springs or weights on my distributor and it would not run without vacuum advance...well, it would run but would not accelerate very well...maybe there is something more in there that I need to investigate...

It would be as a Nice to Know at this point...

 

[gungfudan]

40 over raises compression and 87octane can get pingy as compression goes up so you need more advance on the spark to ignite it before compression does, but only if it gets pingy.

Not sure I understand the first part.
If you want to go fast use intake vacuum
If you want better fuel economy used ported.

If you want both get an older ford dual vacuum device: https://www.428cobrajet.org/id-dist-vac-valve
Or this: http://www.allpar.com/fix/engines/cap-valve.html

I actually had a ported vacuum switch and threw it away. I am going to buy another so I can hook up both. Thanks for the explanation.

Know the only thing I need to know is what type of Pistons should I buy? Should I stay with flat top or go with something different?

 

[RonD]

The Duraspark distributors had centrifugal advance, the ones I have seen did anyway.
But not sure what distributor you are using?

Full electronic distributors, no vacuum advance, often used the module for all advance/retard functions so no mechanical or vacuum advance needed

Yes, the acceleration is sluggish without vacuum advance, richer fuel mix burns faster so explosive force is happening too close to TDC, so less power, intake vacuum advance retards the timing during acceleration.
But engine would start running very poorly as RPMs increased if there was no centrifugal advance, it can be under the plate in distributor.



2.0l Lima engine should be a non-interference engine, so pistons and valves don't share any space in the cylinders.
Interference engines have pistons and valves sharing the same space, so a fully open valve's edge extends below upper most surface of piston when it is at TDC, valves of course are closed at TDC, unless............

If timing belt or chain should break then non-interference engine would come to a stop and just a new timing belt or chain would be needed.

If timing belt or chain should break on an interference engine then engine would come to a more abrupt stop and bent valves, and in some cases pistons, would have to be replaced along with new belt or chain.

If you were to use domed pistons to increase compression then you change a non-interference engine into an interference engine, which is fine, but......if something should happen........just be aware of the extra costs

Shaving the head can also turn non-interference into interference, just need to measure to be sure so you will know.

And then maybe change timing belt earlier than factory recommended change period.

 

[gungfudan]

Has anyone ever tried the color tune kit for carburetor engines before? I am thinking of getting one to get my fuel/air mixture right.

 

[Mark_88]

The Duraspark distributors had centrifugal advance, the ones I have seen did anyway.
But not sure what distributor you are using?

Mine was a factory 1988 distributor for the 2.0 like Dan is probably using. I remember seeing an older style distributor that had the springs and weights and wondered how someone came up with the design...

But I had mine out and replaced it with factory new one after the shaft pin spun out and it was not working right after that...and I didn't see any springs or weights on it...even though I pulled the original apart when I discovered what had happened...

There might have been some but I don't remember...it was only about ten years ago...and my mind was much sharper back then...

 

[Mark_88]

Has anyone ever tried the color tune kit for carburetor engines before? I am thinking of getting one to get my fuel/air mixture right.

I've only heard of this Dan...no idea how it works...but probably a video on Youtube about it...people just gotta show us how it's done...

 

[gungfudan]

So 3.52 is the original bore for the 2.0? The reason I ask is because my friend told me the Pistons were marked 40 and that is why he thought they were 40 over. We put some calipers to the cylinder walls and it read 3.52. So I guess it is stock Pistons.

 

[Mark_88]

I read/heard long ago that the 2.0 could not be bored out to be the same as the 2.3 due to the design of the cylinder walls. I'm not sure if that meant they could not be over bored by any amount.

If the walls are smooth and not gouged there is not need to do too much other than hone them (apparently)...

If it was my engine and I had everything I needed I would try to find a 2.3 short block and build that up...a longer duration cam...that would really really perk it up compared to what you had...

And I would only do that type of work to it if there was a huge surplus of money sitting in my pocket or bank account...

Otherwise just putting it back together to get it up and running would be OK too...at least with no overbore you don't have to worry about bigger pistons or different rings...

 

[gungfudan]

I read/heard long ago that the 2.0 could not be bored out to be the same as the 2.3 due to the design of the cylinder walls. I'm not sure if that meant they could not be over bored by any amount.

If the walls are smooth and not gouged there is not need to do too much other than hone them (apparently)...

If it was my engine and I had everything I needed I would try to find a 2.3 short block and build that up...a longer duration cam...that would really really perk it up compared to what you had...

And I would only do that type of work to it if there was a huge surplus of money sitting in my pocket or bank account...

Otherwise just putting it back together to get it up and running would be OK too...at least with no overbore you don't have to worry about bigger pistons or different rings...

Hey Mark,
I have another question about the pistons. Do the mark the bore size on the pistons? The reason I ask is because my friend found some markings on the top of the piston marked 040 if you look at the pictures in the original post.
Does that mark mean it is bored 40 over. Like I said before the bore reads 3.52 I am just trying to make sure that I get the right pistons.

 

[Mark_88]

Hi Dan,

To be honest...I wouldn't know since I've never actually rebuilt a bottom end and the pistons I saw were just the tops with no noticeable markings. I tried to find images of piston markings and one page mentioned the piston grade and pin grade were marked on the top of the piston but not an overbore spec.

I did find this page that was very interesting and might help you in your build...it is a mini stock build of a 2300 engine with lots of technical stuff and pictures...

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ctrp-0403-ministock-engine-build/

For the ones you have, they may have been stamped with grade information...the size would more than likely be stamped in somewhere but I doubt they would indicate "overbore" specifically...if the bore is 3.52 and it was 0.040 over my mind would see the added two numbers...or something like 3.56...

But, like I said...no idea...sorry.

heads I've played with...and swapped...and I even did my own P&P once...but I left the assembly stuff to pros with good measuring tools because I hate making mistakes that cost me hundreds of dollars...

 

[tomw]

From the sticky at the top of the 4-cylinder web page:

Major engine specs are

.......................................2.0........ .2.3 Early....2.3 Late.....2.5
Bore...............................3.520........3. 780.........3.780......3.780
Stroke............................3.126........3.1 26.........3.126......3.401

If you measure 3.52 ... ignore the markings on the piston, that is bone stock bore diameter. Per the sticky, here:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9

tom

 

[gungfudan]

Hi Dan,

To be honest...I wouldn't know since I've never actually rebuilt a bottom end and the pistons I saw were just the tops with no noticeable markings. I tried to find images of piston markings and one page mentioned the piston grade and pin grade were marked on the top of the piston but not an overbore spec.

I did find this page that was very interesting and might help you in your build...it is a mini stock build of a 2300 engine with lots of technical stuff and pictures...

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ctrp-0403-ministock-engine-build/

For the ones you have, they may have been stamped with grade information...the size would more than likely be stamped in somewhere but I doubt they would indicate "overbore" specifically...if the bore is 3.52 and it was 0.040 over my mind would see the added two numbers...or something like 3.56...

But, like I said...no idea...sorry.

heads I've played with...and swapped...and I even did my own P&P once...but I left the assembly stuff to pros with good measuring tools because I hate making mistakes that cost me hundreds of dollars...

I have asked this before. What is the break in period for a rebuilt engine? The mechanic who rebuilt it before told me 3000 miles and I am good to go. I don't know about that.

 

[Mark_88]

I've heard a few variations on that. One of them involved changing the oil out at short intervals for the first 3,000 miles...

I can't remember the exact sequence but I recall something like 100 miles for the first complete oil change. This is for new engines/parts so any filings that may come off in the initial break in will be removed...these are usually very fine particles that can hang in the oil as opposed to sinking to the bottom of the oil pan.

The next interval was 500 miles...then again at 3,000 miles where the regular service begins.

This also includes avoiding high revs during the first 3,000 miles...

However, I've actually read a completely different version that essentially said let er rip from the start.

The only thing I remember was seeing "break in grease" coating the head parts of one that I had done years ago. It was a special grease for that period of break in.

However...others may offer a more experienced guideline to follow because I only ever broke in one rebuilt and one new engine...but I did follow the oil change pattern as mentioned above.

 

[gungfudan]

I've heard a few variations on that. One of them involved changing the oil out at short intervals for the first 3,000 miles...

I can't remember the exact sequence but I recall something like 100 miles for the first complete oil change. This is for new engines/parts so any filings that may come off in the initial break in will be removed...these are usually very fine particles that can hang in the oil as opposed to sinking to the bottom of the oil pan.

The next interval was 500 miles...then again at 3,000 miles where the regular service begins.

This also includes avoiding high revs during the first 3,000 miles...

However, I've actually read a completely different version that essentially said let er rip from the start.

The only thing I remember was seeing "break in grease" coating the head parts of one that I had done years ago. It was a special grease for that period of break in.

However...others may offer a more experienced guideline to follow because I only ever broke in one rebuilt and one new engine...but I did follow the oil change pattern as mentioned above.

I remember on the previous rebuild the mechanic told me that the oil they put in for break in was high in zinc. Do you recall any mention of that particular type of oil?