Found a '94 Ranger

[98greenrangerguy]

The 4.0 bellhousing is different that the 3.0 bellhousing.

 

[harriw]

Shucks... Read somewhere that Mazda tranny had an "integral" bellhousing, and assumed there was only one. Oh well. Sounds like the 4.0 is pretty reliable too, and doesn't use much more gas. I'm getting excited now, and haven't even seen the thing yet!

 

[harriw]

So, my brother had all the mechanics looked it over from bumper to bumper, particularly the tranny and clutch hydrolics. They unanimously agreed it's in great shape, and that there's absolutely nothing wrong with the clutch system. They also ran a compression test (thanks for the suggestion mtnrgr) and it passed with flying colors. It got new brakes and rotors installed yesterday, was already sitting on brand new tires, and is currently being detailed.

So hopefully we'll be driving down tonight (had a trip down there already planed this weekend for a family friend's christening anyway). I'll have a look at her tomorrow, and hopefully bring her home Sunday. Depends on how the kids are doing - our 3 and 1 year old have been fighting stomach bugs for the last few days, but they're both looking better today.

I'll post some pics of the truck if/when I get her home (I know you guys have seen plenty of these, but I'll have to show off my new toy of course Hopefully y'all can tolerate looking at pics of ANOTHER ranger )

 

[Earl43P]

I've been reading this thread.

Welcome aboard and enjoy your new ride.

Do you mind telling us what you ended up paying for it?

I only ask because a few of us pick up "dead" Rangers and fix them.
I've sold two 93's pretty cheap (but one was free and the other was $500).

 

[harriw]

Sure. Base price was $3200. That includes part costs for new front brakes and rotors. By the time you add in DMV costs, plate costs, sales tax (8% up here in NY), etc., it comes to $4095 I believe (I think the plate costs are a bit higher than usual because I'm buying in NJ and registering in NY, so they need to pay a plate runner). That is at a dealer, but it's my brother-in-law selling it to me so it's not their usual mark-up.

What do people think? Good deal? I know it's higher than you can get via private party sale, but I don't mind paying the premium given what I get for it (mechanics looking it over, no rust since it's a NJ truck, they handle registration, etc.).

 

[kevinsranger]

i think its a little high, but it depends on how clean it is. i payed 1500 for mine but its got 220,000 miles on it. and be careful for rust, jersey cars rust pretty quickly too, they use a ton of salt on our roads

 

[RobbieD]

Good to hear an update from you. In my honest opinion, the price of the truck is fair. You've had it professionally/competently looked over, everything sounds so far like it's in great shape, and the mileage is reasonable. Sure, better deals can be found, but to buy a really good truck of that vintage, if it's the "right" one that makes you happy and gives you years of good service, then it's worth it. Every vehicle purchase, to some degree is a crap shoot. But it sounds like you've got your ducks lined up good on this one. Good luck on your checking it out, and if you like it I hope that you take it home.

 

[harriw]

Well, she's all mine!! Finally got down there this weekend and picked her up Saturday morning. I'm psyched! I've waited a good 8 years for this, and she's a real beauty - you'd never know she was 15 years old if you didn't know the model years.

Here's a few pics. Don't want to fill up Jim's server with all of them (or piss off our dial-up friends), but the rest are on photobucket at http://s281.photobucket.com/albums/kk209/harriw25/94 Ranger/ (last three are my little guy checking it out - I didn't get any pics of my 3-year old daughter in there yet, but she LOVES the flip-down seats in back). I took these yesterday morning as soon as I got it back to my in-laws house (before getting it covered in road salt on the drive back to Western NY today).

I still can't believe how clean those rims are...

There are a few things that will need attention, but this guy took GREAT Care of this truck. I checked the rear spring shackles as suggested - they were replaced pretty recently, along with the mounts. Cab mount brackets (at least some of them) look pretty new as well. Underbody rust doesn't look bad at all for 15 years. There are a few spots I'll want to clean up with a wire brush, but I don't think there's anything too bad.

The shifter's return springs are completely shot, so the stick flops around making 3rd and 4th a fun guessing game (I actually don't mind - I wore out the return springs on my very first car by absent-mindedly playing with the stick at red lights, so it brings back some old memories). It's a bit more of a problem given the large throw on this shifter though - anyone know how easy it is to replace those springs? Are they accessible if I remove the boot, or do you have to drop the tranny? I think the shift gate is still OK, just the springs are shot.

The center console lid latch is busted too, so it won't stay closed. Bit of a PITA - I'll have to find a replacement at a junk yard.

Also noticed this morning the serp. belt is pretty worn. Sounds like it's auto-tensioned and should be pretty simple - how much stuff do you have to take apart before you can get to it though (haven't picked up a manual yet)?

There are a few other things, and I already have a bunch more questions but I'll wrap this up for now, and try to keep future questions in the forums they belong in. Mostly I just wanted to show off my new toy But by all means I'd love feedback on any of the pics, or any of the stuff I mentioned. Thanks again for all the tips, thoughts, help, etc. guys (and gals)!

-Bill

 

[RobbieD]

That is a nice looking truck, Bill. I really like that green color. Congratulations!

 

[Earl43P]

Serp belt is an easy job, 15mm on the tensioner pulley bolt to release tension.

Tensioner isn't a bad job either, if it is bad. It's held on with one bolt, either 8mm socket or at Torx bit, I don't recall which. Just mind that you position the keyway pin. Nothing else has to come off for those jobs.

 

[harriw]

Thanks a lot guys! Glad to hear you approve

-Bill

 

[Ranger-Danger]

I have a 93 Ranger reg cab long bed 4.0 and its the same color.

If you want a tight response in the shifter check out this http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/shifterbushings.htm

I just order mine from a place in Portland Oregon cause its close to my house. Comes with all that's in the picture plus the inner shift boot and the inner shifter. All for about 50-60 bucks shipped right to your door. Or there are a few kits on ebay for like 20-30 bucks.

Nice Steal

 

[pops13]

nice truck, hard to find a 94 that nice up north, you get what you pay for usually.

 

[brendank]

Man that thing looks clean. About what mine looked like 5 years ago.

I see the bottom plastic part on the seat is broken. Funny thing is that every ranger I've ever seen in the junkyard has a broken piece exactly like that. I'm afraid that even if I did replace it, it would just break as soon as the next persons pant leg gets caught on it.

If your planning on fixing the shifter, why not just pull the trans and do the slave at the same time? It's really not that hard and can be done with just hand tools. Actually, I usually don't use my air compressor or impact at all, even though it's there. Something about taking the time to do it with just hand tools that's appealing, I guess.

But really, it is an easy job. Easy enough that anyone with basic mechanical knowledge could probably do it. About the hardest part is the stupid disconnect on the clutch line.

Why are you so keen on getting a 3.0? That's the heaviest model ranger for that year. You should want the 4.0. They're very reliable motors as well.


Anyways, enough of my babbling....

 

[koda6966]

Very clean for a NY truck! Mines got a ton of underbody rust.