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flushing oil system


ati190

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
280
Age
40
City
Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Manual
from other posts etc, some people seem to say to use transmission fluid (ATF) to do so. However, I'd like to know more on this procedure. How much to replace the current oil with. Like drain a qt of oil out, and put a quart of trans fluid in. How long do I drive it with the ATF in the oil? Will this damage my 3.0L engine? Any adverse effects from using it?

thanks
ati190
 
First, why?

Second, what's wrong with just changing the oil and filter? If you're worried about "sludge" any engine that's been properly will have very little.
 
I dont know about the atf, but you could just go to your local auto part store and get a qt of motor flush. (gunk comes to mind)
 
well, the specifics are unknown, I just want to get any sludge (if any) in there out. I heard about using ATF in place of the oil, i'm not sure how much? a half of qt, a qt?
 
If you're really bent and determined to do this, replace one quart of oil with ATF and run it for 100 miles or so, then change the oil.
 
ATF does nothing as far as flushing a motor. It has very little detergents to clean a motor out. The only product worth using to clean out a motor is this stuff called Auto-Rx. You add it after you change the oil and leave it in for the entire oil change interval. Go to http://www.auto-rx.com/ for more info.
 
the atf trick was used to quiet noisy lifters , and they would actually dump it down the carb. to clean sludge the process my stepdad used in the old days was :

1. Drain the oil pan but leave the filter on
2. Fill the pan with diesel fuel , it is not as harmful to the components as gas would be
3. Let the vehicle idle for a minute or two
4. Shut the vehicle off and drain the oil / remove the filter
5. put the new filter on and Fill the pan

he also said you can use atf , but it was not as good as diesel
 
keep in mind any sludge you knock loose has a chance of clogging up the oil pump screen. If it were me I would just stick with a good oil change habit.
 
My employer has been pushing us to sell oil/engine flushes (i am a tech in a auto shop). But i refuse to ever do any type of motor flush......

ANY thing you may "clean" up in the inside of the engine has to pass through the oil pump before it'll hit the oil filter. No thanks
 
I flushed mine...just before it went south...not sure if there was a connection though...but that 'ratcheting' sound i was hearing could have been my oil pump doing the horizontal mamba when it should have been doing the Cha Cha...cha ching!
 
Paps method

You can take it or leave it but my Grandpappy taught me to flush an engine like this,
Basically the same as what WNY964x4 was saying ...w a little more detail.

it always worked well for us as we were not always able to afford new ...nice .... or even well kept vehicles. I wouldn't suggest doing this on a regular basis and I actually only do it when it is absolutley required ( when I see that the engine oil is really in bad shape, usually for freinds who are not very good at regular engine mant.)

-Drain Oil but do not remove Old filter Yet
Once all oil is drained replace drain plug and take about a gallon of fresh clean Kerosene/ or diesel fuel and dump into the Oil fill.
Start the engine let in run for about 15 or 20 seconds and then shut it of... this should agitate the kerosene enough to bust some sludge loose... be careful not to let the engine run too long as you have very little viscosity and in fact the kerosene will break down the viscosity of what oil is lining your engine parts. That is the point... it should also break down any chunks of sludge so that it will not hang up in the pump.

-Remove the Oil drain plug and drain out kerosene

-If what drains out looks really bad.... you might want to flush again with another gallon of kerosene but DO NOT start the engine (agitation start) on follow up flushes. You can do this until the Kerosene comes out looking fairly clean.

-After this again replace the Oil Drain Plug and add @ least 2 quarts of whatever Oil you will be running in the engine... again start the engine and let it run for under a minute.... this will relube the engine parts and act as a flush for any residual kerosene or sludge chunks in the system. Then remove the Oil drain plug again and (the 2 quarts) drain oil.

-at this point complete your oil change by replacing your oil filter and refilling your engine with the proper type and amount of Oil

As a side note I like to follow up a kerosene flush like this by completing another full oil change within a month or 500 miles.. I feel better doing this as any sludge or build up that you had may have weakend but maybe didnt come out in the initial flush but will surely have broken loose and blended with your oil by now .... in theory your filter should catch any of that but I do the followup change anyways
 
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I would think that the best method would be to do an oil change, run the engine a little harder over the next period (maybe a shortened interval), and then change the oil again. Then, keep up with a good oil change schedule.

I'm a firm believer in taking the engine to the red line at least 4-5 times per week. That way, you always have high pressures in the systems, which will keep stuff from sitting too long (sludge in the engine, carbon in the combustion chambers, etc.). My wife's car only gets revved out when I drive it, and it always gets that little puff of smoke the first time I take it to freeway speeds. My truck has over 120k more miles then her car, and my truck never has any smoke when I take it on the freeway (every day on my way home from work).
 
Seriously? Diesel? ATF? Just change your oil guys. What do you think will happen to all the sludge if you do happen to break i loose? It wont just disappear. It will probably get down into your pan and clog your pick up screen. But i dont see diesel as being a very good lube for bearings, but do what you will with your engine.
 

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