Finally, Another Ranger!

[FordTruckinRanger]

Hey everyone! Just picked up a 2003 XLT, 3.0, 2wd, 5-speed last week. I owned a very similar 1993 as a kid and I've been wanting another one for quite a while now. I was hoping to get one from the 90s mostly for nostalgic reasons, but this '03 popped up so I took a look. My biggest concern being in the northeast was rust and this one had very little so I drove it home. Paid a bit more than I originally wanted, but it seemed on par with the market.

The truck idles pretty rough and has been throwing codes so along with the normal tune-up stuff, I'll be fixing some issues but hope to have it running good soon. I've always enjoyed fixing my own vehicles but I've never been great at diagnosing. I'm just now starting to learn about fuel trims and other useful data from my code reader that I never looked at before. If only I learned this stuff as a kid, I could have saved money on unneeded parts and probably had some better running vehicles!

I already have a couple questions, but I wanted to start with a 'hello' before begging for help. Hopefully as I learn and after I get her all dialed in, I'll be able to provide some help and info to others. Thanks for everything!

Zack

 

[SenorNoob]

Howdy and welcome to TRS! Whatcha having problems with?

 

[slater50]

Been a ford engine tech for 32 years...
If you have misfire codes, or random misfire codes, or any combination...
Main symptom is rough running at times & misfire codes.
The 3.0 is notorious for leaking valves, hammered valve seats, tuliped valves...
If previous owner, or anyone continues to drive it like that for any extended period of time, that cats will get plugged-up due to raw fuel in the exhaust burning them up.

Never did a manual compression test on one but at work we do a relative compression test when cold using the laptop IDS & if any of the graphs aren't green, it needs heads...
Heads removed & rebuilt with hardened seats, updated valves, etc, or replace the heads.
Both sides!

 

[FordTruckinRanger]

It came with some misfire codes. Air filter was real bad, replaced. Replaced fuel filter, new plugs. Drove around the block and the light was back on with lean codes on both banks. The next day the plug wires came in so I changed those and cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body. Still idled pretty rough, drives pretty good tho, but when I was maneuvering it into a good spot in my driveway, the CEL started flashing. Had 2 pending codes: bank 1 lean and cylinder 2 misfire.

Did a smoke test and I have a leak at my pcv valve. Parts may be arriving today to fix that and change the valve.

Also, the exhaust from the manifold to the muffler looks fairly new but leaks really bad at the outlet flanges of the manifolds. I took them apart last night and found no gaskets. I'm seeing a lot of people say there aren't supposed to be gaskets but it looks like fel-pro p/n 61054 would go there? Also called a ford dealer who said there is a gasket there that they didn't have, but i didn't get a ford part number (I may call back and get that). I was planning on trying the fel-pro part tonight but looking for input.

Not real happy to hear about the heads issue but at least I have this resource if I need to go that route. I think I have to address the known exhaust and intake leaks before I can continue troubleshooting for now.

Thanks for the help.

 

[slater50]

where the y pipe attaches to the bottom of the manifold, no gasket...
never had one leak there.....

If back pressure is so severe due to plugged cats, it has to go somewhere....
Pressure gauge, of back pressure gauge in the front 02 sensor port on bank 1 passenger side 02 sensor hole or DPFE port....
snap the throttle hard, or power brake it & see what pressure is...
Edit, you cant power brake, its a manual....

Before you keep throwing parts at it, do a compression test cold on #2 & compare it to a known good cylinder...
flashing CEL means severe & should be easy to isolate...

that felpro gasket doesnt go anywhere on that truck, do not buy.
Theres no gasket for the flange with 2 bolts to the bottom of the manifold, its just a hard metal donut integrated into the manifold, not replaceable.
Theres metal exhaust manifold gaskets to the head, never seen one leak bad enough to cause a CEL, rear bolts are know to breaking.
Never seen a upper or lower intake gasket fail on a 3.0 to cause a lean code....
If cats are plugged, pcm isnt sending the right air / fuel ratio & leaning everything out.

Start with a compression test on #2
It wont be dead but might be low compared to a good cylinder.
do it cold
see how high it jumps at first revolution, compare that to the others.

Not having the right tools to your disposal leads to alot of throw the parts cannon at it, end result leads to wasting more money than you should have to find the problem....

 

[pjtoledo]

what did the old plugs look like?
what do the new plugs look like after a few hundred miles?

and yes, do a compression test.
the opening for the plugs is narrow on these engines, sometimes an adapter is needed to get thru that channel for a good seal.

it would be a good idea to pull the cam sync unit to inspect the drive gear. at the least remove the sensor cap and put a few drops of oil on the bushing.

 

[FordTruckinRanger]

Ok thanks I called the dealer back for the part number and it was miscommunication he was talking about the gasket to the engine. I know I'm just throwing parts at it (and I've definitely been that guy in the past) but so far it's all stuff I bought to do anyways thinking it would be good routine maintenance. I will try to clean the mating surfaces and reconnect the y-pipe but it was pretty tight and leaked like a sieve. I had blown a shop vac in the tail pipe to see where the leak was and it was pissing so much air it was just spraying the soapy water away before it could bubble. Driver side just bubbled a lot but was tight as well. I'll try to get that together tonight and get myself a compression tester.

 

[FordTruckinRanger]

Well I didn't have much time for the ranger after work but I did grab a compression tester on my way home. I tried unsuccessfully to get the exhaust flanges to seal for a few before kids & sports took over. I did get the leak to improve by cheating the flange to one side rather than keeping it centered and the driver side seams to be good now, but I'll be moving on to the compression test next in case they need to come back apart anyways. Here are pictures of the plugs I took off. #1 was definitely the ugliest and 1-3 were all worse than 4-6. I can try to get better photos if it would help. New plugs have less than a mile on them.

 

[SenorNoob]

Those are bad enough to cause random misfires on their own.

Any exhaust leak before or even a foot after an O2 sensor will throw off readings. Sometimes enough to make the PCM cause misfires trying to get the O2 to look right. Mine would stall on takeoff after a few minutes of idling because of a leak at the y-pipe to cat flange.

 

[FordTruckinRanger]

Thanks, the leak was excessive on that side. I got it much better for now, but I'm a little nervous it's a bigger issue based on the previous comments so I will do a compression test next before messing with it more. It smelled like it was running rich at idle yet threw the lean codes so I started researching a bit. I thought the exhaust leak and vac leak were my issues but maybe not? Probably won't be able to get back under the hood until tomorrow after work, but I'll post what I find with the compression tester and see what you all think.