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extreme drop pitman ?issues?


pro's and cons to both arms.

the long arm will put more stress on the frame horn,also if you have alot of bump travel the stering can bind off the drag link.But for a daily driver it will steer better(better road manners). I would still put a brace that ties the frames rails toghter side to side, and set up the bump stops to limit bump travel befroe the linkage binds off the draglink/pitman arm.this binding can cause the sector shaft of the steering arm to snap off, or crack the sterring box its self on hard hits,or if you have the right front stuffed in flex with alot of the truck weight on it

the shorter arm, will lose road manners, but wont put as much leveage of the frame horn.and the sterring wont bind off the drang link as soon in bump(mine took about 10 inches before it went in to bind(with the short arm). IF you have a ton of droop,you may end up binding with the shorter arm.My 19 inch sky jacker springs(6inch lift springs) did not have a drop bind problem with the linkage and I did not meassure out how far till it would have bound....just some food for thought there.

when I had a skyjacker 6inch kit under my truck that proably sat at 7 total(had 3/4 inch spacer under the springs and my truck is a reg cab) and the shorter arm(4-6 arm) it had some bump steer like any beam truck, but was not scary in my mind. HEll my g/f at the time could drive the truck no problem and she was not the best driver.

So if its going to be a 90% daily driver,and you will have a full 6inches of lift get the longer arm,but a cross brace between the frame rails and set up the bumps so the sterring dose not bind in bump.

just my thougts.
 
The extreme arm will put excessive pressure on the steering box. I can almost guarantee that you will be replacing the steering box shortly.

If you want a band aid fix, install a steering stabilizer.

I've been running an extreme drop pitman arm for a few years. No steering box issues yet. I had a standard dropped pitman arm on and the angles and bump steer were horrible. Since I switched to the extreme, alot of the issues have cleared up. My drag link is perfectly horizontal without any angle at normal ride height. Because of the design of the steering system, you will get the slight jacking/tilting effect when you crank it over to full lock, no way around that. This is what others have referred to as the added stress to the box/frame. This wont hurt anything under normal circumstances... If you have the cash to drop for a superlift setup, by all means, but dont rule out the extreme pitman arm because others say you cant run it.
 
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I don't think it puts much stress on the steering box, but rather the frame. I know with my 5" of lift in the front and the regular skyjacker drop arm the frame horn on the drivers side flexes quite a bit when you turn the steering side to side.
its amazing that more people don't notice it.

Because of the design of the steering system, you will get the slight jacking/tilting effect when you crank it over to full lock, no way around that. This is what others have referred to as the added stress to the box/frame.
i'de have to disagree,a stock truck goes side to side when you go from lock to lock.its from caster and scrub radius.wider rims and tires exagerate the effect not steering.

like sasquatch said your frame rail twists more with a drop arm or if you run larger tires.
 
Thanks for all of your replies! Last question...ok so if I were to get the superlift steering setup and a regular drop arm(4-6") I would have no issues, and it would be properly setup for a lift of this size without any special fabrication??????
 
Ok, too much misinformation in this thread

The Superrunner steering is hardly an improvement at 6" lift over a plain drop arm if you don't drop the centerlink down on it. If you don't have any means to modify it, you'll be better off with the extreme drop arm.

The longer arm does add more stress on the box and frame, true. I would say that unless you push your truck to the limits all the time, you shouldn't have an issue with it.
If you search back a ways, I recall there was a post where someone had made a brace for the box similar to ones made for Jeeps, could help take some of the stress off the frame anyway.


BTW, your Trailmaster arm will work fine with the Superlift steering kit (modification to the kit does not change the pitman arm requirements).
 
Maurices Ranger was dramitaclly improved without a modified center link and his Bronco II is great without a modified center link and it has 6" of lift.
 
If you search back a ways, I recall there was a post where someone had made a brace for the box similar to ones made for Jeeps, could help take some of the stress off the frame anyway.
i could have used a beefier clamp but its not shifting yet.i drilled and bolted up the tabs, then tack welded the tube before removing and fully welding.the steering box is shaped perfect for a flat stock/ u-clamp setup-
KIF_0040.jpg


my frame moved quite a bit with the factory 2" drop arm and 33's.
 
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Ok, too much misinformation in this thread

The Superrunner steering is hardly an improvement at 6" lift over a plain drop arm if you don't drop the centerlink down on it. If you don't have any means to modify it, you'll be better off with the extreme drop arm.

The longer arm does add more stress on the box and frame, true. I would say that unless you push your truck to the limits all the time, you shouldn't have an issue with it.
If you search back a ways, I recall there was a post where someone had made a brace for the box similar to ones made for Jeeps, could help take some of the stress off the frame anyway.


BTW, your Trailmaster arm will work fine with the Superlift steering kit (modification to the kit does not change the pitman arm requirements).


so if I use the trailmaster drop arm or one with similar drop along with the superlift steering does that "drop the center link" and put things right where they need to be. OR IS IT A CUT AND WELD MOD?. I already ordered the extreme drop arm but Im looking at a used superlift steering kit from a local guy who is doing an SAS in his ranger. I may run one untill I can do the other. please clear this up for me im confused.:huh:
 
I have a ford STX pitman arm on my Superrunner kit and it's fine. It's the same arm you would get from rough country, skyjacker, trailmaster, etc etc for a 4"-6" lift.

The mods to the superrunner is the centerlink block needs to be cut off and dropped. Mine is dropped nearly 1.5" and it's about level. I also had a new block made instead of welding in a spacer.
supersuperlink002.jpg
 
i have a skyjacker 6" class 1 lift kit and ford factory spacers and the bump steer was terrible with the FA-400 arm that skyjacker recommends for the 6" lift so i bought the extreme drop arm it leveled my steering out and the truck drives almost as good as it did stock.You need to take it to a GOOD alignment shop afterwards.
 
any one got pics more pics of the linkage installed? modified?
 
look through the last few pages in my build thread. I have some non-modified pictures in there.
 
I'm running the explorer in my sig with 6" BDS springs and radius drops with skyjacker pivot drops. I have the skyjacker extreme drop arm. My steering is level with great road manners. When I'm offroading, if i get the tire bound up against a rock or a ditch, i dont force the steering wheel. Have not noticed any frame cracks or the steering box getting loose. I do plan on bracing it up over the winter as prevenative maintenance.
 
Here's one I did:
centerlink.jpg

installed.jpg


This truck has 8" coils on it. Ideally the centerlink on that should've come down another 2 inches or so, but with that much lift, you kindof have to make a compromise due to the added leverage it puts on the Superlift idlerarm.
Being standard TTB coils, it handles quite acceptably.
 

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