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Engine Trouble


So it's getting sorta warm, but not warm as in the heater is warm. The gauge stays way in the cold, and I've replaced both the temp sensors (I replaced the computer thinking it was the gauge one, then felt stupid that it didn't fix the gauge... Haha) but the engine was running for about half an hour and it didn't warm up from that. And the stuttering and puttering goes away after about 10 ish minutes of driving and only does it when I romp on it to accelerate really hard


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So, I've done some researching, do you guys think it could be relating to timing? The motor has 200k on it, and I don't know when the last timing chain was done on it. If that isn't it, how about the Crankshaft position sensor? I still have yet to try the Tps sensor, but what does the Tps do?


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TPS = throttle position sensor = gas pedal.
Do the tests that people have suggested before jumping to new ideas. That will eliminate problems with diagnoses.

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I found a way to test it online, with a ohm meter, so I did. It had a 5 volt current, then when I plug it into the other prong, it stayed at .9 volts, when going up with the throttle it didn't jump around or anything, it went smoothly up to 4.6 volts.


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If you are old enough to remember carburetors then you will know what an "accelerator pump" was for, when you pressed down on the gas pedal accelerator pump would squirt extra fuel into the engine to give driver quicker throttle response.
Jets work on air flow but are slow to react when air flow is increased by opening the throttle, so accelerator pump was added to make for quicker response.

Throttle position sensor(TPS) is there for a few reasons, one is to act as the accelerator pump for fuel injected engines.
When you press down on the gas pedal the TPS tells computer to add more fuel now, if TPS wasn't there then computer would wait for MAF sensors air flow to increase before adding more fuel, so slower throttle response if TPS wasn't used
 
Test shows correct voltage on center wire,
throttle plate closed = .69-.99 volts
throttle wide open= above 4.5volts

But you need to open and close throttle slowly, and watch the voltage, it needs to be steady, no jumping or dropping.

These can fail out right, but usual failure is a dead spot or short, so at 1/4 throttle voltage drops under 1 volt or jumps to 4.6volts, this confuses the heck out of the computer, it thinks you either took your foot off the gas or floored it, and responds accordingly.

TPS functions the same as a volume control or light dimmer, variable resistor, a mechanical part that can get worn section, usually at the most used area.
 
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So go really slow to check for any spots that are dead? Even though it doesn't sputter unless I'm flooring it? It seems to be like a misfire, that eventually goes away when the engine runs for awhile


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The Tps came back fine, I'm gonna replace the fuel filter tonight and see if that fixes my problem, if it does, then that great! If not, I'll be back.. :/


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The slowly open and close is just how you test that kind of device, variable resistor.

Reason for the test wouldn't matter, once you are setup to do the test you test all functions.
 
The Tps isn't the problem, as I did the test slowly and it came back. I didn't get the fuel filter last night as the parts store closed before I got there. However I will today and see if that'll fix it.


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Fuel filter sort of cleared up the problem. It still happens, a new symptom is a rough idle that occasionally happens.

On another note, I replaced the thermostat with a new one, and the motor still doesnt get warm, on the gauge, or even heater wise. I can go out and feel every hose and it's luke warm.


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One of the guys at my work says I've got air in my cooling system. I've burped it several time no with no luck, next I'll try to flush with the adapter on my heater core hose. Hopefully this clears up soon, It's flicking cold in the mornings!!!


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My truck dose almost the same thing it's weird

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It's breaking the laws of man! Haha. I really don't know where to go with this. I've replaced my thermostat, I've burped it, I'm going to drain all the coolant out by force with a hose, refill it, and see if that fixes the problem. I'll take the thermostat out for that though


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