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Engine Compartment - Routing of wires & hoses, etc.


I've always assumed that, in general, below the throttle plate is manifold vacuum, and above is ported vacuum. So look at the centerline of the throttle plate and go from there.
 
Another way to tell if a port is regular vacuum or ported
Idling engine
Unplug the port, if idle goes up its regular vacuum
If idle doesn't change its Ported vacuum
 
I've always assumed that, in general, below the throttle plate is manifold vacuum, and above is ported vacuum. So look at the centerline of the throttle plate and go from there.
The issue I'm having is that some of these ports seem to be just above or just below the throttle plates. That's why I'm having a hard time figuring out which is which.
While all carbs are different there is a 2150 diagram here IDing the vacuum ports: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1424779-for-anyone-who-needs-a-mc2150-vacuum-port-diagram.html
Read the whole thread there is some good info

"Spark port" is for distributor's vacuum advance

You don't have a "Power Valve" port, looks like your power valve uses internal vacuum passage, both types were used

In your picture ??? port is Ported so could be used for EVAP or other emission system
The images I posted are not actually my carb. They're just screen grabs from the internet but my carb looks very similar (with the exception of the ports on the rear of the carb - my PCV port is in the middle of the carb body and the port with the brass tube is on the passenger side venturi).

I also received an email from the guy that rebuilt my carb (and tested it on an engine stand). He doesn't identify it as a 'spark port' but did indicate that's the port to use for the vacuum advance.
 
Where the hole for the port comes out inside the throat of the carb tells you what it is, above or below throttle plate on that throat

If you do have a Power Valve port on yours, that is for Vacuum IN, it needs to be hooked up to regular vacuum on the intake manifolds Vacuum "tree" or any open port on intake

Power valve is used based on Engine Load, it Richens the air/fuel mix when accelerating, pulling a load or going uphill
As engine load goes up regular vacuum goes down, and power valve adds more fuel

Accelerator pump just adds a Squirt of fuel so you get instant throttle response
Power Valve keeps the extra fuel flowing as needed based on engine load
 
I do know that there is no port on the Power Valve, it has the shallow/short cover.
 
> Power valve is used based on Engine Load, it Richens the air/fuel mix when accelerating, pulling a load or going uphill

Great, now I have to double check to see if mine is hooked up. :-D Though I think mine is internal.

FWIW: I found this site very helpful on setting up my 2.8L for points, before I went to Duraspark. I basically wanted to make sure the points could be used in SHTF if I had too, but, I wanted duraspark for less PM, since only one person in my household knows how to drive a standard, never mind set point.

I was trying according to "spec" for 6, 8, and 10 degrees BTDC, but, it ran poorly and started to get okay at -14 degrees.

Distributor advance

 
Try 10-12deg BTDC
Then plug back in the Vacuum advance, to regular vacuum, not ported vacuum, and see where timing ends up at idle
Should be 18-20deg BTDC
 
Anyone have any idea where to buy a ~36" coil wire? Male on one end (coil) and female on the distributor cap end. I tried to make my own and failed, miserably.

I'm really getting tired of throwing money away at this thing and am seriously thinking of having the truck crushed I hate this thing so much. :mad:
 
I have the coil mounted on the driver's side inner fender near the hood hinge. It's convenient to all of the Duraspark wiring (as opposed to running wires across the firewall to the passenger side where there's LOTS of room). The firewall area near the distributor is so congested, there's no space for it there (where it logically should go).

That adapter is a nice idea, thanks. But, using it will require that I relocate the coil because there's not enough room, above it (for the adapter) where is currently resides.
 
Is anyone running an electric fan? I have 1.5 electric fan kits that came with the truck (one complete kit and the wiring kit for another). The thermo-switch, that goes in the water neck, is 185* but the t-stat is 192*/195*. I'm guessing once the t-stat opens, the fan won't ever turn off?

If you do have an electric fan, what did you use as the 'switched power' (key on) source?
 

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