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EGR Control solenoid


Make sure you have all the vacuum lines correct then erase the memory on the computer then disconnect the battery negative for 15 minutes then stat it up and run it at medium speeds until the engine warms up all the way then run the codes while the engine is still hot. Hopefully you get solid 11 codes
 
So now I have a tee coming off the air horn with the orange vacuum line on one end (goes to top of the solenoid closest to the firewall) and the other end running up to the WOT (whatever that is - appears to be a little check valve/filter that connects into the vacuum line that operates the hot air intake motor on the air cleaner). It seems to be running like new but I still got a 31.

I didn't disconnect the battery though like you said (I just erased from the code reader) so that might do the trick - I'm definitely encouraged since it appears I've been creating my own problem (not the first time) by having the line connected to manifold vacuum. The vacuum diagram label is so faded that the orange, red and pink lines all kind of look the same and it has been so many years since I pulled the motor out of this thing . . .

I'll clear the codes and disconnect the battery tonight after work, take it for a good drive and see what happens. I'll try and post a picture/video of everything to see if it all looks right to you as well.

Thanks again,

Kirk
 
Prolly would have been easier to delete the EGR, cant tell you how here though. v6power.net
 
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/1983vacuumhoseguide.jpg this is the diagram for a 83 and is the same as the 84 except for the vacuum switch on the upper left. The vacuum door connects from manifold vacuum to the bi-metal in the air filter housing thru the vacuum round plastic thing to the door motor. The way it works is the door opens to the pre-heater duct from the exhaust manifold to put hot air in the carb as it gets warm in the filter housing the bi-metal switch turn off the vacuum to the door motor and brings in ambiant (fresh air) air from the front of the truck. As far as the code 31 can be a tough nut to crack the position sensor is telling the computer the egr is not closed all the way you say the engine stalls when the egr is open does it run better now the egr closes. hopefully the code will go away when you reset the computer start the KOEO test and as it starts giving codes end the test to erase the codes then disconnect the battery to reset the computer values then take it for a test drive and see what happens. When it is running stick you finger under the egr diaphram and goose it and see if the egr opes then closes it should be working and if the code keeps popping up ignore it as long as the engine is running good and you are getting descent fuel mileage I couldnt get mine to go away and I tried everything as long as it is the only egr code you get. let me know what you come up with.
 
Took it into town last night to fill it up (hoping police wouldn't hear the studs clacking and then further notice the 2002 tags) and it's running great . . . but I still get a 31 and 33. The sensor doesn't think it is closing enough but like you said - and I've also read elsewhere - a 31 can be a tough one to get rid of. It is a new EGR and Sensor but I'm tempted to put my old ones back on to see if that makes it happy . . .

ehh . . . I'll do that if it doesn't pass IM - gotta have a plan B to cling to just in case . . .

So let's see . . . New EGR Valve, new Sensor, new Processor, new MSD coil . . . all because I had my EGR Vent connected to manifold vacuum (suck, blow, whatever - it's all the same right?).

Yup. I'm a purdy gud car fixerer . . .
 
I even tried to grind the plunger on the position sensor to get the volts right it ohmed and the volts were right and still got the Fn 31 if it is runng good and the fuel mileage is ok you should walk thru emissions. Mine passed once with pretty much all the crap not working you should be fine. At least now u are edjumacatid on vacuum lines.
 

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