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eb44 vs fw44 or other??? with leafs


What about D44 outers? I priced the swap months ago and it came out to $500ish which included the reamer tool plus wheel adapters.

RCV's cost more than a D60 no matter what way you cut it.

I would recommend the D60 swap as well but I understand it isn't for everyone.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
Soo much EB hate....it makes me sad.lol. I lucked out and found an EB geared how I wanted (4.09) for under $400, and it came with a trashed FW axle for a disc brake donor. Even with buying new calipers rotors, pads, joints,bearings, joints, shafts, balljoints, and lockouts I was still under $650 total. If I was to buy all that for a 60 I'd be another 500 in the hole not including the axle itself.

That said...If I didn't get deal on my axle I would have gone straight to narrowed 60 no doubt.

I have a spool, Spicer 760 joints, and a its held up to my doubler,mild 4.0, and 35's so far. Im going to go out on limb and say Bobby and I have different driving styles.lol

-PlumCrazy


hey....you lucked out for sure....

then again....it all depends on your definition of luck...

you payed more for your 44 swap then i did initially for a 60 swap...but i lucked out and more or less ended up with a free swap in the end...













kryptonitecb, generally where i shop a ttb knuckle swap is around 150-200 with careful shopping but usually less then that and often with fresher brakes etc as well.. but i dont disagree that 500 bux seems easy to approach or cross depending on time table and what things go for in your area....

careful selective shopping is key.


but its a time money thing. might take quite a bit of work as well.

if you pick through a few trucks you can get choice parts....if you have a place to stash your choice parts temporarily and put your select assembledge together it gets you the best bang for buck when your list is complete and its check out time.
 
let me just start by saying plum... youre truck is THE SICKEST THING EVER!! hahaha ive read your build thread like 12 times hahahaha but yeah i dont get how everyone on this thread is talking shit about eb's when the majority of people on this site have them??? thats why i asked how truly good they were. but i totally get everyone saying that a d60 is better but they're not for everyone... and actually i can get my hands on one really cheap right now with 4.09's out of a 97ish f350 too... about $600 - $700, (actually my friend just bought a d60 with for his f250 for $1200 thinking he got one hell of a deal, and i laughed my ass off at him hahahaha before i told him about my cheap one) but i think im included in that "not for everyone" category. so im mainly looking at d44 options.
 
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the eb axle shit talking is based on general comparisons verse value and perceived values based on perceived superiority.

if you get a bling upgraded disk brake eb axle for 700 bux then by all means have at er.



but to spend 800 on a stock drum brakerust ass eb axle that your gonna make nice arms for when 100-150 dollar dana 30's are laying around in large numbers, then do cost benefit comparisons directly to a ttb35 that already under your rig its hard to get past certain assumptions when being truly objective.
 
kryptonitecb, generally where i shop a ttb knuckle swap is around 150-200 with careful shopping but usually less then that and often with fresher brakes etc as well.. but i dont disagree that 500 bux seems easy to approach or cross depending on time table and what things go for in your area....

The $500 was the high end of my estimate in case I needed new calipers, brake shoes, etc. Plus I couldn't find the reamer tool for less than $150 which was the bulk of the price. And wheel adapters to continue running my current wheels. I like to estimate on the high end just in case.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
so i just started looking around on CL and d44's and im finding quite a few HP 44's for around 200 most out of jeeps some from early f150's... any difference on the diff placement?? and im thinking maybe a 44 for the rear as well??? but whats the width difference? are 44 rears full width or eb width? and btw most im finding are disks already. so other than matching gears, shafts, and u joints, what else would be a big deal for a little weekend worrior?
 
I dont understand why everyone wants a damn 9". 8.8s are just as strong and dime a dozen for 31 spline, disc swap is cake and gears are cheap. If you really want no c clip then buy the kit and still have less in it than what everyone thinks their 9" is worth.

9" is nice for swapping gears and all, but in our application you normally only have to do it once.

-PlumCrazy
 
I dont understand why everyone wants a damn 9". 8.8s are just as strong and dime a dozen for 31 spline, disc swap is cake and gears are cheap. If you really want no c clip then buy the kit and still have less in it than what everyone thinks their 9" is worth.

9" is nice for swapping gears and all, but in our application you normally only have to do it once.

-PlumCrazy

I'm glad I'm not the only one. .2 inch more ring gear isn't going to make that much difference. From what I gather 8.8's are very strong too.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
What c clip eliminator are you talking about plum?

Also I think a lot of guys go with the 9 because of a huge aftermarket for them.
 
Probably the Superior Gear setup shown here:
http://www.superioraxlegear.com/AXLE KITS-c-13.html

I've only seen a couple rare instances of broken 8.8" shafts. If you got disc brakes, it's not going to let it walk out of the housing anyway, so I think the c-clip thing is mostly a moot point.

The 9" for sure keeps it's popularity because of the huge aftermarket. I see it a bit like the D44 from earlier though... I would say skip it for a 10.25" if for some reason the 31-spl 8.8" just isn't enough. Again there is some weight difference, but unless you're speeding through the desert or something, it doesn't seem like it would matter much to me. If anything, the weight is down low and may actually improve your CoG.
 
Probably the Superior Gear setup shown here:
http://www.superioraxlegear.com/AXLE KITS-c-13.html

I've only seen a couple rare instances of broken 8.8" shafts. If you got disc brakes, it's not going to let it walk out of the housing anyway, so I think the c-clip thing is mostly a moot point.

Thats the kit. But like you said, the disc brakes will keep the a broken shaft in the housing long enough to limp out of the woods.
 
I dont understand why everyone wants a damn 9". 8.8s are just as strong and dime a dozen for 31 spline, disc swap is cake and gears are cheap. If you really want no c clip then buy the kit and still have less in it than what everyone thinks their 9" is worth.

9" is nice for swapping gears and all, but in our application you normally only have to do it once.

-PlumCrazy

Damn, you are on a roll!

I agree with you. My 8.8 is just fine and plenty strong for what I do. Actually my SAS was unnecessary. I bought a 9" for $30 and sold it the next day for $150:icon_thumby:
 
yeah see ive heard the opposite... ive heard that 8.8 had a crazy bad habit of striping out shafts and the housings cracking... im taking it thats not true??? and its already got and 8.8 just not the full width... id rather just get an 8.8 fw and a 44fw but exactly what donors would have a fw 8.8??? and the same for a fw44??
 
yeah see ive heard the opposite... ive heard that 8.8 had a crazy bad habit of striping out shafts and the housings cracking... im taking it thats not true??? and its already got and 8.8 just not the full width... id rather just get an 8.8 fw and a 44fw but exactly what donors would have a fw 8.8??? and the same for a fw44??

I dont think I have ever seen a cracked 8.8 housing. FW8.8 came in late 80's thru mid 90s F150s and E150 Vans. FW 8.8 and Explorer 8.8s are 31 spline vs the 28 spline Ranger 8.8.

-PlumCrazy
 

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