Duraspark Choke

[85_Ranger4x4]

First off I have a durasparked 2.8 with the factory carb.

After doing some work on the choke system of my dad's '80 F-350 I have learned that the choke on it runs off the stater post on the externally regulated alternator, at about 7 volts only when the engine is running.

I have never been all that impressed with the choke on my Ranger, it seems to pull off awlfull fast. After finding out more about how the system works in the F-350 the wheels started turning about my truck. The PO had it running off of straight 12V on and off with the key and I have never really messed with it. According to my books originally the 2.8 choke was ran off a computer controlled choke relay which has been MIA since before I got the truck, so I have no idea exactly what kind of voltage it is supposed to see.

My first reaction it was to hook it up to the stater and see how it does... but the moron also put in a much later internally regulated alternator that has two plugs on it with no posts.

Any thoughts on getting something to work with 12v?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

it would be the stator post on the alternator it is the one that only has power when the engine is running one is allways hot one is switched and the third has no power till the engine is running. I wired mine from the ignition but the black white wire on the alternator was doing nothing in my charging system the voltage from the computer or relay was a pulsing voltage I used a earlier stat that takes batt voltage i suppose you could put a resistor to slow the opening of the choke or a different stat that takes batt voltage

 

[dangerranger83]

Turn it into a manual choke, did that to my dads truck.

My dad rarely has to use his choke and it can be 20 degrees outside and he still doesnt use it, the truck runs like a charm without it.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Turn it into a manual choke, did that to my dads truck.

My dad rarely has to use his choke and it can be 20 degrees outside and he still doesnt use it, the truck runs like a charm without it.

Well, I can vouch that mines runs like absolute crap when it pulls off early.

I am not really that big on the manual choke, dad's Dodge has it as well as my tractors and it is tough to get it just right until it warms up... and when it doesn't need it, it promptly dies. All of them have manual transmissions so it isn't a big deal, push it in and it will catch itself and take off again. With my automatic I don't think I would be improving things much.

The '80 one ton starts and runs like it is fuel injected, it would be sweet to have mine start and run (and stay running) like it does. I know the system can work dependably, I just need some insight on ways to get it to work with my buggered up truck.

 

[ammocj]

Mine does the same thing.
I'm running 12 volts to it.
I thought you could just turn the spring loaded dial back so it'd hold longer?
Thats what I'm gonna do.
Although mine starts and runs so well now that I haven't bothered yet.

Al

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Mine does the same thing.
I'm running 12 volts to it.
I thought you could just turn the spring loaded dial back so it'd hold longer?
Thats what I'm gonna do.
Although mine starts and runs so well now that I haven't bothered yet.

Al

You can loosen up the dial and adjust it on the 1250 that came on my 302. The one on my truck now looks like it is riveted together, probably because the computer adjusted it to do what it wanted.

I thought about putting the 302's on my truck, but I don't really want to mess with the heat riser deal that it also has.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

those are break away screws on the choke thermostat I used a chisel to tap them backwards to remove them another thing I did was added a three ported vacuum switch to give the distributor manofold vacuum till it gets about 130 degrees then it switches to ported from the carb it starts right up and can put it right into gear. Are you running the distributor off the carb or manifold tree

 

[kimcrwbr1]

the 302 choke housing will probably work on that carb just kinna tricky getting the right combo of parts to make it work proper plus you need to plug the vacuum for the heater tube if it has the compression fitting all you need is a HVAC 3/8 cap. I actually used the choke housing off my feedback carb on the 2150 non feedback carb the vaccum port for the choke is not there.

 

[Original_Ranger84]

I slapped a manual choke on my 2.8L and it is really nice... not too bad to adjust fully out when its first started up and then push it in a bit just to open it up, then put it about half way when you drive and all the way in when the truck starts warming up.

I actually have just been holding the flap open with a piece of tubing on my new carb because i haven't had time to hook up the choke on it....