Driver side caliper noise and uneven wear

[mooty]

Since I bought the truck a few years ago I noticed that the front brakes made a rubbing type noise(not quite a "squeal", more like a chair dragging on a hard floor). Finally I started to hear a grind so I opted to change my pads. When I took the driver side caliper apart I saw metal to metal wear on the top of the rotor. The old pad still had some material left but the top wore unevenly making metal to metal contact with the rotor.

I took the caliper apart, regreasing the pins, which looked salvageable, and greased the backing pad to prevent squeal.

However, the noise as well as the uneven wear is still present. I fear I may have to replace the caliper but I don't know what's wrong exactly.

Any thoughts?

 

[RangerDange]

Id just go ahead and do calipers, rotors, and pads on both sides. If one caliper failed, the other may not be far behind. Best to just do it now and be good for another 30k

 

[AllanD]

The only issue I've had with a 1995-on front brakes is rather simple to fix...

There is a tendency for rust to build up between the cast iron caliper bracket where it is covered by the stainless steel anti-rattle clips.


the solution is to clean away any rust on the bracked under where you remove the old clips and paint the bracket where the clip goes before you put the new clips on.

As all the replacement pads I've bought were supplied with a set of clips in the box with the pads the only cost here is the price of a can of paint...

For what it's worth I use bed-liner spray to treat the specific areas that are in contact with the clips and I spray the back sides of the clips generously with the spray and put the clips on while the stuff is still tacky then use the old pads to apply pressure to the clips
and let it dry overnight...

I've previously "gooped" the back side of the clips and literally glued them to the caliper brackets with Permatex "ultra" silicone (Usually the copper kind)


The point is to use anything that can help exclude water from getting between the clips and the brackets.


AD

 

[mooty]

The only issue I've had with a 1995-on front brakes is rather simple to fix...

There is a tendency for rust to build up between the cast iron caliper bracket where it is covered by the stainless steel anti-rattle clips.

Interesting but I think the issue revolves around the caliper itself in my case, the pistons may not be fully disengaging and the pad is remaining in contact with the rotor, causing them to "stick" when i disengage the brakes. I probably have to replace the one caliper but I've never done that so not looking forward to it.

 

[mooty]

I changed the caliper but the noise is still there. It sounds like a rub and can be felt. It mostly happens as I come to a stop and adjust my foot pressure on the brakes to smooth it out. I'd be tempted to say it's just how it is but it only occurs on the driver side. I would think proper brakes would work more or less quietly?

I suppose it could be that the rough part of the rotor is causing the noise but hesitant to assume that's the case. As I mentioned, it only occurs in specific circumstances.

 

[AllanD]

If the caliper pistons are not retracting and thus maintaining pressure on the pad
keeping it in firm contact with the rotor causing the brake to drag the only "fix" is to replace/rebuild the caliper...

I was suggesting only that it's possible to have firm contact between the pad and the rotor due to other causes...

Namely the bad being unable to move freely because of rust build-up between the caliper bracket and the stainless steel anti-rattle clip...

You should still check for this when you have the caliper off.

And as a note many pads include anti-rattle clips in the box when purchased.

 

[MagicMexican]

If the caliper pistons are not retracting and thus maintaining pressure on the pad
keeping it in firm contact with the rotor causing the brake to drag the only "fix" is to replace/rebuild the caliper...

This. A caliper rebuild kit is pretty cheap. Pop the piston out using compressed air, clean up the piston surface and replace the seals in the caliper, and that should fix the issue with it not retracting.

 

[TxGasRacer]

It could also be a bad brake line hose that connects the steel brake line to the rubber brake hose that also connects to your caliper,the hoses seem to break down over time and they wont let fuild flow through the hose correctly.

 

[mooty]

I've replaced the caliper, as I stated. I probably was fine with the old caliper (after inspecting and cleaning it while changing out my pads) but I got one fairly cheap so I went ahead and replaced it anyway. There are anti-vibe backing pads with the new pads, which are thoroughly greased.

I don't believe there is anything wrong with the brake assembly itself, all is properly torqued, lubed and feels quite solid. Also, the visible section of the brake line that connects to the caliper looks fine from the outside at least.

 

[TxGasRacer]

While the brake hose may look good from the outside the inner liner of the hose can come apart inside and block the flow of brake fluid to the caliper OR block the fluid flow back from the caliper.This in it self could cause your caliper to Not retract completely which can cause your disc brake pads to wear uneven.