double triangulated 4 link up front?

[alpinestar]

So, will the triangulated 4 link clear everything under our frames? or will i run into problems. i actually havent looked my self under my truck, and i need to but i'll do that later. also im gonna do the 4.0 swap, so any ideas if im gonna run into any problems there?

thanks

 

[LittleHorse]

maybe just talking out my ass here but wouldn't that cause your wheels to turn as your suspension cycles, since the axle isn't moving laterally with the drag link as it would if you had a 3 link w/ panhard bar?

 

[alpinestar]

yaaaa for sure. kinda wondering what all im gonna have to do. ive seen it done though, shouldnt cause any driving issues though. but thanks for the brainstorming haha

 

[LittleHorse]

The only way I know of to get around that is to have a full hydraulic ram steering setup. Otherwise the drag link or right side tie rod will pull your wheels to the left at droop. I think it would be significant enough to cause some weird handling characteristics, but I have no direct experience so who knows.

As far as clearing everything, I would think the upper links would hit the engine crossmember, oil pan, or maybe even the bottom of the bellhousing.

Any reason not to just do the panhard bar style suspension? Fewer brackets to weld and links to make/have made.

 

[fordmandan87]

there is a steering setup that will allow for this suspension to move with out steering link induced binding. I dont know what the name of it is but it has a link from the pitman arm to a swinging bracket on the passenger side frame rail the link has another link coming off of it to a similar bracket on the driverside and on bothe the lowest link on each one (second one down on driverside and third an passenger side) is attached to each wheel. can anybody remember the name of this setup

 

[alpinestar]

Panhard style is still not completely out of the question, im just thinking about this...

So, full hydraulic ram steering would be fawkin sweet anyways so lets just say im down for doing that. although i know the costs that amount to that and may not be possible yet.

could i remove my crossmember, make a new one that sits flat up against the oil pan and possibly have it clear it then? i may not get FULL travel from it but i could just run air bump stops that will keep the links from bashing into the crossmember.

i foresee probably using a 3 link with a pan hard bar and doing the double triangulated 4 link in my rear. but if i could some how come across the correct parts why not give it a try?

thanks guys!

 

[alpinestar]

And FordmanDan if you could find a pic of this steering or figure out what its called it would be greatly appreciated. anythings cheaper than full hydro. and im not running much bigger than 35" tires so its not really needed...

 

[Toreadorranger]

Just go 3 link with panhard, you wont see a benefit with a DT 4link over a 3 link with panhard. Its a whole lot of hassle for something that isnt needed.

 

[LittleHorse]

I don't think there's anything you could do with your crossmember to help the situation, since there's still an oil pan there with the deepest part RIGHT behind the center of the axle where the upper links would mount. To get that out of the way you'd probably have to have your static ride height somethng like a foot above stock, and even then you won't have much room for compression so you'd be losing most of the benefit of the DT4L. I'm thinking a rear engine buggy would be the only really useful application for a DT4L on the front axle.

If you think about it, the rear suspension and rear axle just doesn't have anything to contend with for space, except for a gas tank on some models...my B2 of course has it behind the axle so I'd be perfectly clear to do it if I had the time, skills, resources and motivation.

 

[alpinestar]

alright well im gonna go 3 link in the front then. and ill do the dt4l in the rear... ahhh the fun of building a wheeler... anyone wanna see my bumper in progress? lol