distributor reinstalled and truck won’t start

[stamina]

i definitely should have marked the rotor and what not but i didn’t and i turned it quite a bit to get the gears to mesh up so i have to reinstall it again, how do i install a distributor from scratch as if it was a new one with no marks? only problem i had was trying to get it to mesh up with the oil pump shaft so i had to rotate the motor

 

[Shran]

You need to pull it, rotate the engine clockwise until you feel air pushing out of #1. Line up the crankshaft balancer so that 0 degrees is lined up with the pointer, stab the distributor so that the rotor is pointed at the #1 plug wire terminal, put it back together... then set the timing.

 

[stamina]

You need to pull it, rotate the engine clockwise until you feel air pushing out of #1. Line up the crankshaft balancer so that 0 degrees is lined up with the pointer, stab the distributor so that the rotor is pointed at the #1 plug wire terminal, put it back together... then set the timing.

and if i can’t get the oil pump shaft the line up first try? i don’t have one of those oil pump primer sockets

 

[gaz]

stamina,

You need to set your engine to TDC #1 cylinder based on the marks on the crank/damper/block marks (front of block, passenger side, to the left and just above the crankshaft) . Then install your distributor. When you install the distributor, just be patient, it doesn't always plop in nice but it will

Your manual should have a decent photo, there is undoubtedly one in our tech pages.

 

[Shran]

Sometimes it takes some wiggling. Try turning the rotor past or behind where you think it should be and see if it slides in. If it does and it lines up, you're good, if it's off, it'll be off enough to be obvious. You can bump the engine past 0 or back a little bit too, just use your best judgement...

I think you can use an E torx socket to turn the oil pump rod...don't quote me on that though.

 

[franklin2]

I have never tried it yet, but I am getting the impression if you do all the above (the air coming out of #1 sparkplug hole is important) and stab the distributor in, the distributor gears are going to mesh a certain amount. Then if you need to turn the engine a little bit you can, the gears will stay meshed. Turn it just a little bit and then once it drops in, turn it back to 10 BTDC and then twist the dist around till the rotor points to the right sparkplug wire (#1). If you can't get it without the dist hitting something on the engine, then just move the wires around like musical chairs, just keep them in order.

What you are doing with the air coming out of #1, the timing marks on the damper are going to come around twice for cylinder 1. Once for the exhaust stroke, another for the firing stroke. Both valves will be shut during the firing stroke and it will try to push your finger off the sparkplug hole. Thats the one you want to line up to.

 

[Nez'sRanger]

I found the easiest way to know you're on the right stroke is to put a compression tester on cylinder 1. When the needle reads, boom, compression stroke. My hands are usually too beat up and dirty to feel air coming out while cranking the engine with a ratchet, lol.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

It's called a dead time, we used to do it in high school auto on small block chevy shop engines. they guys described it right. dont worry about priming if it ran recently. You can prime it a little by cranking the engine with the cap wire off so it wont start.

 

[19Walt93]

Just loosen the #1 plug several turns and you'll hear air whistle out when it's on the compression stroke. Bring it up to TDC and try to drop the distributor in. Usually the oil pump drive doesn't line up the first time for me. The rotor is going to turn as the gears mesh together so try to guess how far it'll turn, then turn the rotor backwards and try to drop the distributor in again. Usually, it won't go all the way in so hook up a remote starter switch- or jump power to the solenoid "S" terminal- and bump the starter. Once it drops in, rotate the engine back to TDC and make sure everything is lined up. On a Ford V8, if the vacuum advance diaphragm isn't pointed about straight ahead, I consider it sloppy workmanship. Please don't just move the plug wires on the cap if it doesn't come out right the first time.

 

[franklin2]

Just loosen the #1 plug several turns and you'll hear air whistle out when it's on the compression stroke. Bring it up to TDC and try to drop the distributor in. Usually the oil pump drive doesn't line up the first time for me. The rotor is going to turn as the gears mesh together so try to guess how far it'll turn, then turn the rotor backwards and try to drop the distributor in again. Usually, it won't go all the way in so hook up a remote starter switch- or jump power to the solenoid "S" terminal- and bump the starter. Once it drops in, rotate the engine back to TDC and make sure everything is lined up. On a Ford V8, if the vacuum advance diaphragm isn't pointed about straight ahead, I consider it sloppy workmanship. Please don't just move the plug wires on the cap if it doesn't come out right the first time.

The sparkplug wires do fit better if you are close to the factory position on the distributor.