Distributor install problem

[boycbronco]

2.9 v6, 86 Ranger XLT. I'm putting in a new distributor. It won't fully drop into place. Prior to removing the old one, I found TDC, marked rotor to distributor body, distributor body to block, and marked where the rotor stopped as I pulled it out (came out easily). I transferred these marks over to the new distributor. Tried putting the new distributor in using the reference marks, body would not seat (is roughly 1/2" too high).Tried rotating rotor slightly, both directions, no better results. I even tried re-installing the old distributor, using the original marks, and it won't go back in, either. I wasted probably 90 minutes doing all this repeatedly. Getting very frustrated. What is the trick?

 

[kunar]

The oil pump drive rod also has to line up. It'll go, just takes a couple tries. Sometimes it helps to roll the engine over a little with a breaker bar, just double check that everything is lined up right when you get it all together.

 

[boycbronco]

The oil pump drive rod also has to line up. It'll go, just takes a couple tries. Sometimes it helps to roll the engine over a little with a breaker bar, just double check that everything is lined up right when you get it all together.

I sure hope so! 5 hours of trying and I'm no closer than I was. Ridiculous.

 

[Denisefwd93]

silly question... O ring making it difficult? I ask because I had a friend teach me on my GM 2.8 V6s

 

[adsm08]

The o-ring seal can make it difficult, but I have found that most times grabbing the rotor and wiggling gently while pushing down does the trick of getting everything to fall into place.

 

[2trux]

On mine I had to turn the engine while pressing down to get the oil pump shaft to line up.

 

[boycbronco]

thanks everyone for the replies. I was able to finally get it to drop into place late yesterday, and get it to start and run, but the timing is still about 15-20' advanced. When I try to get it down to the prescribed 10', it won't run. I presume I am still off a tooth on where the distributor should be. When I tried to pull it up and adjust it a tooth, though, I can't. It will only drop back into place where it was, or several teeth away (where it won't run at all). Going to start wrestling it again this morning.

 

[sjr53]

Make sure you remove the spout connector before setting timing to 10 degrees. With spout connector still in place, the timing will be at least 20 degrees.

 

[boycbronco]

Sorry, what is the "spout connector?"

Got it running today, timed at 10' BTDC, ran okay for a while but wants to die (not idle) once it comes up to full operating temperature. I'm still not completely sure the distributor is set exactly right (I followed the instructions posted above), but I can not get it to go in any other way. It is sitting more clockwise than it was before replacement.
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, MAP sensor, fuel filter have all been replaced. Fuel pressure is right at spec.
Hmm.

 

[enjr44]

You have to set the "base" timing at 10 degrees and you do that with the spout disconnected. If you set it with the spout connected it will be very retarded and may not even run. Google (giyf) spout connector for your truck (or find a you tube vid for timing your truck).

 

[boycbronco]

Okay, got ya, yes, I set the timing with the "Spout" disconnected. Thanks.
Update; have been driving the truck for a week or so now, running well except for occasional, intermittent idle issues (idles well at 1000-1200 but stumbles a bit when it drops down under 1000). Has died on me a couple times at stop lights but starts right back up.