DIS pick-up,how deep????

[1up]

I'm going to be running my DIS ignition on my 89 Ranger, I need to drill and tap the Merkur block to accept the pick-up, how deep can I go before I get into water or oil?? if I remember correctly one of the holes possibly gets into a water passage.
same question for the locating pin.
Thanks, Curt

 

[TireIron]

I would just use some calipers and measure the depth of the holes on your 89 block for it...

 

[AllanD]

The dis pickup?

It isn't bolted to the block but to the aluminum front "cover"....

Why not just swap out the front "cover" of the engine for one from a DIS engine?

It's already drilled....

AD

 

[1up]

No, the block is drilled,the front covers are different, I don't have my old block, and didn't think of measureing the depth of the holes when I was at the junk yard pulling the dis front cover off.
Curt

 

[scotts90ranger]

yep, it's mounted to the block on the early DIS, the EDIS is apparently easier to mount...

I don't remember how deep I went when I did it, I think only one or two of the holes you have to worry about depth, the furthest to the drivers side only has about 1/4" of material until it's in the crankcase so just go through, with the pan off you can feel up to where the holes are going to be

if you haven't found a 6mm roll pin (I couldn't locally, but I didn't try all that hard), all I did was drill and tap the third hole for 6mm and just cut the head off a 6mm bolt... I loctited all three in. I could have just turned down a bolt in my lathe or something, but drilling and tapping was easy...

 

[pearldrumbum]

could you just drill through into the crankcase and just put teflon on the bolt?

 

[scotts90ranger]

don't even really need that, the bolts are well above the oil level in the pan, at worst it's going to seep out a little crankcase pressure that you don't want anyway... a dab of loctite will do as well as thread sealant.

 

[TireIron]

some black rtv on the threads works well also just like sealing up the oil pan.

 

[AllanD]

How far do the stock bolts extend out of the unit you are trying to mount?

AD

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

Is this the usual "I want to put a 2.3 turbo in my currently DIS ranger and keep the DIS" question? If so, all I have to say is that it's much easier to drill and tap an oil return in the DIS block than it is to drill and tap 3 precisly located DIS mount holes in a turbo block.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I didn't put that much effort into my alignment, I pulled the mount off of one engine, made a template out of plexi (not the best idea, was a PIA to trim and stuff, ended up with a fair amount of duct tape...), marked the holes on the turbo block, drilled and tapped and bolted the sensor on without adjusting the alignment...

although that's the easy part, the hard part was making the aluminum oil pan and front cover fit the turbo block... between drilling out the two rear holes and getting new bolts, notching the one hole different in the front cover, and filling the trough in the rear main cap.

 

[AllanD]

Before I put a turbo engine in anything I'll have an EDIS4 system on it.

Not to swap a turbo into a later truck but because the distributor cap
is a PITA to access and if I don't have a distributor mounted low on
the block the phucker can't get wet.

I'll be using a Ranger crank pickup, but wiring, coil pack and control module
from a 1991-97 Escort

I'd really like to use an actual torsional damper (rather than a simple crank pulley)
off of a later 2.3 engine if possible, but I'm not that far along yet.

AD

 

[1up]

Is this the usual "I want to put a 2.3 turbo in my currently DIS ranger and keep the DIS" question? If so, all I have to say is that it's much easier to drill and tap an oil return in the DIS block than it is to drill and tap 3 precisly located DIS mount holes in a turbo block.

No this is a straight up Turbo motor out of a Merkur, I'm just trying to use all possible electronics from the Ranger, therefore it's easier to keep my DIS set up then trying to run the distributor. also I lost (got towed) my donor car with allot of peripheral motor items with it.
Thanks for the responses, I need to drop by here more often.
Curt

although that's the easy part, the hard part was making the aluminum oil pan and front cover fit the turbo block... between drilling out the two rear holes and getting new bolts, notching the one hole different in the front cover, and filling the trough in the rear main cap.

I used my ranger pan also, I didn't have any problems once I got the right oil pump for it.
I posted the swap here on the Forum a while back.
Curt

 

[scotts90ranger]

I think they changed in '86 mid year or something, my '86 engine had the trough in the oil pan which was the main hold back...