Dash Cluster w/ Tachometer Part Number?

[scotts90ranger]

I am also known for long winded responses at times, but this one is one that's near dumber than it should be... . If the cluster you have has bulbs in the trans light area and 4x4 and such might as well pull those bulbs, I had to pull mine after I put it in because of an annoying theft light I think it was, maybe trans... leave the check gauges if it's there, that's your low fuel light at about 3 gallons left which is annoying and convenient at the same time (I get ~23-25mpg, freaks me out early...)

 

[Ed K]

My truck is 2wd 5 spd manual so no indicators for 4x4 or auto.
I picked this cluster because it's also out of a 2wd 5 spd manual.
I won't know what indicators are different in this tach cluster until I get it, but I really hope the layout is close to mine.

 

[Rick W]

I was just joking around a bit.
Information is a good thing and I appreciate the insight.

I know that, and I appreciate it. I wasn’t being defensive, just explaining a little bit. Trust me, we are good, all is good.

 

[Ed K]

The tach equipped cluster was delivered earlier today. I looked it over and it looks to be in good condition.
4 out of 6 main bulbs were blown and the other 2 were cloudy with a chance of burnout so I'll just replace them all before I put it in the truck.
All the little indicator lights look okay. I did a continuity check on 3 but it was too hard trying to hold the tiny bulbs and probe the hair sized ends with the meter so I just settled for a visual inspection.

I might pull my cluster out tomorrow if it's nice out ( it's been raining about every day here with rare exceptions)
I just re read this article regarding the odometer swap-

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-ranger-odometer-gauge-swap/#gsc.tab=0

Very good write up. I won't be messing with rolling the other odometer, I'll just swap mine over.
I do have a question regarding the 3 way jumpers he made in the pics-
I can't make out what he used as the T section. Can anyone break that down for me? It looks like a spade connector but I can't figure out what the other piece is.

Rick W- In your step by step tutorial you posted here (thanks again) you had something very similar but only used the Top Left + stud and the Bottom Right - stud to calibrate the gauge prior to removing the needle and to re test after the odometer swap.
Does this give the same reading as using a pair of 3 way test leads and making a connection to all 4 studs?
If so, I'll just do it your way since I already have normal 14g gator clip jumper wires but I don't have any 3 way leads.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Is that what I did to get 72ish mph when I did it the first time? been like 5 years so I forgot... What I told Rick to do was just opposing corners which got around 42mph for whatever reason... I didn't do that writeup and for whatever reason didn't find that when I was doing mine but yeah... For pulling the speedo needle just do it repeatable is what Rick found out

On your question about what they used to splice the wires, those are just heat shrink butt connectors, you don't have to get fancy, for this wire nuts would work fine...

 

[Rick W]

The tach equipped cluster was delivered earlier today. I looked it over and it looks to be in good condition.
4 out of 6 main bulbs were blown and the other 2 were cloudy with a chance of burnout so I'll just replace them all before I put it in the truck.
All the little indicator lights look okay. I did a continuity check on 3 but it was too hard trying to hold the tiny bulbs and probe the hair sized ends with the meter so I just settled for a visual inspection.

I might pull my cluster out tomorrow if it's nice out ( it's been raining about every day here with rare exceptions)
I just re read this article regarding the odometer swap-

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-ranger-odometer-gauge-swap/#gsc.tab=0

Very good write up. I won't be messing with rolling the other odometer, I'll just swap mine over.
I do have a question regarding the 3 way jumpers he made in the pics-
I can't make out what he used as the T section. Can anyone break that down for me? It looks like a spade connector but I can't figure out what the other piece is.

Rick W- In your step by step tutorial you posted here (thanks again) you had something very similar but only used the Top Right + stud and the Bottom Left - stud to calibrate the gauge prior to removing the needle and to re test after the odometer swap.
Does this give the same reading as using a pair of 3 way test leads and making a connection to all 4 studs?
If so, I'll just do it your way since I already have normal 14g gator clip jumper wires but I don't have any 3 way leads.

First, you’ve got the connection points off….

Looking at the back of the speedometer, top left is positive, and bottom right is negative. Should bring you to around 40 MPH, maybe 42

It worked fine just using those two leads. I saw a video with the three way connections, but I didn’t like the guy doing the video, and again the straight wire leads worked fine.

And at the end of the day, when I did my test drive, I was off 7 MPH. I pulled the speedometer out, hooked it back up, and pulled the needle and just put it back 7 MPH higher, and all is good now.

I don’t know what using the three-way connectors would do, and I’m gun shy of playing around with jumping electrical circuit boards. BTW, I got that method from @scotts90ranger when he sent me the cluster.

For checking the little bulbs, I have a collection of power supplies for computers and phone systems and whatever. One of them is 12 V and I think it’s 1000 milli amps. That works fine for any LED, and the small incandescents. I cut the end off and put two little alligator clips on it, and I just have it plugged in hanging at my workbench. I use it all the time. If I have something with a bigger draw, I have a couple of 12 V power supplies from playing with the CB radios that will drive just about anything.

 

[Ed K]

First, you’ve got the connection points off….

Looking at the back of the speedometer, top left is positive, and bottom right is negative. Should bring you to around 40 MPH, maybe 42

It worked fine just using those two leads. I saw a video with the three way connections, but I didn’t like the guy doing the video, and again the straight wire leads worked fine.

And at the end of the day, when I did my test drive, I was off 7 MPH. I pulled the speedometer out, hooked it back up, and pulled the needle and just put it back 7 MPH higher, and all is good now.

I don’t know what using the three-way connectors would do, and I’m gun shy of playing around with jumping electrical circuit boards. BTW, I got that method from @scotts90ranger when he sent me the cluster.

For checking the little bulbs, I have a collection of power supplies for computers and phone systems and whatever. One of them is 12 V and I think it’s 1000 milli amps. That works fine for any LED, and the small incandescents. I cut the end off and put two little alligator clips on it, and I just have it plugged in hanging at my workbench. I use it all the time. If I have something with a bigger draw, I have a couple of 12 V power supplies from playing with the CB radios that will drive just about anything.

Yep, I suffer from IBID (intermittent blonde induced dyslexia). I knew I should have copy and pasted your connection instruction rather than try to type them from memory.
I fixed the connection points as per your post.
I would have re read your instructions anyway before testing once I get around to it, maybe tomorrow or Sunday.