dana 44 question

[gotmudd]

i just bought another d44 solid axle that was under a mid 80's f150 step side and need to know if it was for that truck or did it come from something else. the numbers on this high pinion is ( 44-7f ) c33835 5 lug -drum brake-coil spring- king pin. paid 150 for it and i got everything with it when he cut the frame before the radius arms ( giving me double shock mounts-coils and steering box.
I want to make it an 8 lug to match my 14 bolt rear. will any of my 10 bolt chevy ball joint disc brake stuff work? i also have a 68 f250 closed knuckle d44 8 lug - drum brake- the 10 bolt im gonna toss it if i cant use it ....after all nobdy wanted it for a hundred or Obo w/410's ,so i dont mind heaving it .

going by my clymer shop manual heres the run down on DANA axles: F100 and F150= 44-7F[1969-1977] 44-9F[1978-1979] OR 44-IFS[1980-ON] F250's: 44-6BF[1969-1971] 44-6CF[1972-1977] 60-7F[1978-1979] 44-IFS-HD[1980-ON] F350: 60-7F[1979] 50-IFS-C[1980-ON] BRONCO'S: 30-AF[1969-1970] 44-1F[1971-1977] 44-9F[1978-1979] 44-IFS[1980-ON] hope this helps ,and yes these are all fullsize axles.BTW my book only goes back to 1969. not sure about I.D on axles prior to 1969

 

[madmax401]

going by my clymer shop manual heres the run down on DANA axles: F100 and F150= 44-7F[1969-1977] -

well you found more than i did. it has 44-7f on it and your information tells you 100 and 150's. the guy that sold it to me said it was from a 68 f250. im thinking since your book only goes back to 69..........maybe they did use the 44-7f the year before the f250.

 

[gotmudd]

going by my clymer shop manual heres the run down on DANA axles: F100 and F150= 44-7F[1969-1977] 44-9F[1978-1979] OR 44-IFS[1980-ON] F250's: 44-6BF[1969-1971] 44-6CF[1972-1977] 60-7F[1978-1979] 44-IFS-HD[1980-ON] F350: 60-7F[1979] 50-IFS-C[1980-ON] BRONCO'S: 30-AF[1969-1970] 44-1F[1971-1977] 44-9F[1978-1979] 44-IFS[1980-ON] hope this helps ,and yes these are all fullsize axles.BTW my book only goes back to 1969. not sure about I.D on axles prior to 1969

o.k i'm confused, you are talking about two different axle housings, one from an 80's F150 stepside that you say is a 44-7F and then a D44 from a 68 F250 if the 44-7F came out of the mid 80's F150 it's a transplant because they didn't use solid axles in anything after 1980.

 

[madmax401]

sorry to confuse you

i have two d44's that i need to identify . the d44 that was believed to have come out of a 68f250 your information says 69-77 f100and 150's.
the other 44 i purchased from a junk yard,i found it underneath of a 80 something f150 stepside. a mid 80's stepside never came with a solid d44, that had originally had a ttb axle.
with your information...........you had atleast narrowed one down my leaf sprung d44 to the year and model used.

 

[mhughes165]

i have two d44's that i need to identify . the d44 that was believed to have come out of a 68f250 your information says 69-77 f100and 150's.
the other 44 i purchased from a junk yard,i found it underneath of a 80 something f150 stepside. a mid 80's stepside never came with a solid d44, that had originally had a ttb axle.
with your information...........you had atleast narrowed one down my leaf sprung d44 to the year and model used.

if the one that was under the 80's f-150 was a coil sprung rear odds are its a late 70's, as they are the ones that came with coil sprung 44's with disc brakes

 

[madmax401]

the coil sprung 44 had 5 lug drums when i got it and i swapped on a set of gm spindles and stuff to make it disc ,so from what i've been reading .....it should be pre-76...i think. that pretty much narrows it down between 71-76 right? i have found absolutely no BOM numbers on the coil sprung 44. kinda sux, because thats the one going under my 88 ranger. i havent even opened it up to see what gears are in it (that will change later for sure). the biggest battle is to complete the sas first.....so the truck can roll around and be moved to a different location.

 

[mhughes165]

the coil sprung 44 had 5 lug drums when i got it and i swapped on a set of gm spindles and stuff to make it disc ,so from what i've been reading .....it should be pre-76...i think. that pretty much narrows it down between 71-76 right? i have found absolutely no BOM numbers on the coil sprung 44. kinda sux, because thats the one going under my 88 ranger. i havent even opened it up to see what gears are in it (that will change later for sure). the biggest battle is to complete the sas first.....so the truck can roll around and be moved to a different location.

well ur right, 71-76 is when the rear came out of, luckily there all the same through them years...and soon fi all goes well this week i might be able to take a ride out ur way and give u a hand getting her done....i got a massive project myself im about to udnerway aslong as my shit sells, or alteast half of it i should say

 

[madmax401]

thanx for offering the help. honestly, i need all the help i can get. i'll supply pizza -beer-steaks and possibly have some chicks over to flirt with. if you need anything welded.....bring it with and you can use my new hobart 140. ive been searching for frame bolts so i can mount the radius arm brackets and finnish bolting up the coil perches......nobody around here on gods green earth has any grade 8 bolts. m12''s or 7/16.....sux to be me , lol.

 

[mhughes165]

well man, just hitup ur local advance auto or store of that nature, thye always have grade 8 or grade 10 hardware

 

[madmax401]

I did find grade 8 m12's today. tomorrow i'll look for the 7/16 and grade 10. stronger is better (even if it's unecessary). got all of my coil mount holes drilled,now i'm mark the bottoms of them to match the contour of the frame and weld the bottom to the mount for a perfect fit to bolt up. im trying to avoid frame welding except when i box the frame.

 

[mhughes165]

I did find grade 8 m12's today. tomorrow i'll look for the 7/16 and grade 10. stronger is better (even if it's unecessary). got all of my coil mount holes drilled,now i'm mark the bottoms of them to match the contour of the frame and weld the bottom to the mount for a perfect fit to bolt up. im trying to avoid frame welding except when i box the frame.

it wont hurt anything to run a bead down both sides of the bucket, wont weaken the frame anything that u would ever notice or would ever cause problems with