Dana 35 TTB Converted to Chevy 6 on 5.5

[Jim Oaks]

We've covered converting the Dana 35 TTB to Dana 44 hubs many times. Dana 44 steering knuckles, spindle hub, etc.

What about swapping everything from the steering knuckle out but ending up with a Chevy 6 on 5.5 wheel bolt pattern. If I did that on my 1996 Ranger, it would have the same wheel bolt pattern as my 2021 Ford Ranger.

What could I salvage the parts from?

 

[bobbywalter]

chevy spindles depending on what way you want to do brakes starting with a ttb 44

 

[bobbywalter]

though its usually to go 8 lug, using 10 bolt stuff.

 

[bobbywalter]

i assume you are spitballing for the next build..




.what rear axle do you plan to use? toyota? gm? or the newer ranger/bronco rear? or just redrilled 8.8 axles?

ford totally hosed us with their ass-baggery bolt patterns on the big trucks and the new ranger. the 150 gets some awesome axles and elockers but uses a metric pattern. plus they are 1500-2 g used....but that 9.75 is a beeeefy critter.

redrilling the axles to 6 x 5.5 isnt a deal breaker in regards to value if you can find one at a u pull. that will be the only way to financially justify buying a 150 9.75.

but they top out at 373 gears.

its why i defer to running the standard 8 lug or 5 x 5.5.

on the dana axles most guys swap from 6 lug to 5 lug or 8 lug.

the tacos are 6x5.5 and can have a e locker but top out at 3.91...i dont remember the 4.30 coming with the e locker...would have to look into that

the new ranger is 373 and cost more than a 150 and the broncos 427 will be 3 grand... so even regearing the best dollar will be using a tundra or taco axle. super strong, good brakes and easy to get parts.

its why i live with 410s and the 5 lugs and 8 lugs. cheap and easy.

rocklander type build needs a floater rear imo. best load capacity. but for sure not required...just nice.

there were 4.09 ttb 44 centers still trading for 250-350 last i needed to do one. shipping was 90 dollars though. converting the 92 f150 i was planning on that initially, but 3.55 with 235 to 31 in tires with the 300 and the 5 speed should be ok.

when you regear and buy lockers it really adds up fast.


i was looking at the aftermarket advantek setups for the new bronco to fit into the current ranger platform if i was to build one and they are about 4 g with the e locker and 470ish or whatever gearing you wanted....of course i would do custom a arms and 150 raptor shafts and it would make it almost full width 150 but less than full 150 raptor.... and very high travel if i measured right. be about a perfect ranger with raptor flares in my eyes...

at that level not racing but biasing towards what i normally do off road though its a waste of money....looking at 20 grand.

TTB is still a way better option to build a high travel wheeler on the current rangers in my eyes. though spending 20 grand or even 30 on TTB setup is very easy to do as well, i would be fine under 5 grand all in front and rear...for my all around daily driver and adventure rig.

i have looked at quite a few rear end damaged trucks with buy it now 10000 to 13000 lately with under 100k miles on the copart.

i am getting twitchy over here.

 

[JoshT]

ford totally hosed us with their ass-baggery bolt patterns on the big trucks and the new ranger. the 150 gets some awesome axles and elockers but uses a metric pattern. plus they are 1500-2 g used....but that 9.75 is a beeeefy critter.

Since I've got a '21 F-150 now, your comment made me go look at the lug pattern. So the metric thing doesn't surprise me too much, but did Ford really put a larger lug pattern on the Ranger than on the F-150?

F-150 = 6 x 135mm (5.31")
Ranger = 6 x 139.7mm (5.5")

Ok it's less than 1/4 inch difference, and probably more than strong enough in either case, but who puts the larger lug pattern on the smaller truck?

What kind of stupid s*** is that? Makes no sense to me, but I'm not an engineer. Does explain why it's difficult to find aftermarket wheel styles I like listed for the F-150, they gave it an oddball lug pattern.

 

[Jim Oaks]

My 8.8-inch has 31-spline shafts, 4.56 gears, a Detroit Locker, a really nice truss welded on by @bobbywalter and HD rear diff cover. It's pretty stout. Weak link is the c-clip, but they make an eliminator clip.

The Dana 35 has 4.56 gears and a Detroit Locker, and I have some gussets to add to it.

If I only go to 35's to build a Rocklander and not a hardcore crawler, that my stock axles will be suffice. I haven't thought about how I'd change the rear bolt pattern. Might not be enough area to redrill a 6-bolt. Might have to get these:

Wheel Adapter - Converts 5 Lug 5x4.5 to 6 Lug 6x5.5 - 2" Thick 12x1.5 Studs 74mm Hub

5 Lug to 6 Lug Wheel Adapters that convert 5x114.3 or 5x4.5 to 6x5x5, 2 inches thick with 12x1.5 wheel studs. Fast and Free Shipping! Shop wheel adapters and spacers at lugnutguys.com. 5450-6550E6 Changes 5x4.5 to 6x139.7

lugnutguys.com

 

[Snoranger]

My 8.8-inch has 31-spline shafts, 4.56 gears, a Detroit Locker, a really nice truss welded on by @bobbywalter and HD rear diff cover. It's pretty stout. Weak link is the c-clip, but they make an eliminator clip.

The Dana 35 has 4.56 gears and a Detroit Locker, and I have some gussets to add to it.

If I only go to 35's to build a Rocklander and not a hardcore crawler, that my stock axles will be suffice. I haven't thought about how I'd change the rear bolt pattern. Might not be enough area to redrill a 6-bolt. Might have to get these:

Wheel Adapter - Converts 5 Lug 5x4.5 to 6 Lug 6x5.5 - 2" Thick 12x1.5 Studs 74mm Hub

5 Lug to 6 Lug Wheel Adapters that convert 5x114.3 or 5x4.5 to 6x5x5, 2 inches thick with 12x1.5 wheel studs. Fast and Free Shipping! Shop wheel adapters and spacers at lugnutguys.com. 5450-6550E6 Changes 5x4.5 to 6x139.7

lugnutguys.com

Cut the ends off your 8.8, weld a set of big bearing 9” ends on, and have a set of axle made by Moser or Strange. That will eliminate the C-clips, you won’t have to use those (soon to be) leaking C-clip eliminators, and it will give you any bolt pattern you desire.

 

[bobbywalter]

Cut the ends off your 8.8, weld a set of big bearing 9” ends on, and have a set of axle made by Moser or Strange. That will eliminate the C-clips, you won’t have to use those (soon to be) leaking C-clip eliminators, and it will give you any bolt pattern you desire.

yup...

though the super 88 kit which can hold the 6x5.5 pattern is definitely a good unit compared to the early style offerings...but if your cutting off the ends, floaters are better. or just bolt a 60 in.

the problem is that both of your carriers had the ever living fawk beat out of them.....the rear axle was bent so bad the locker couldnt disengage. since you dont crank the miles, it was not a huge concern.....and we were up against the clock. so we have a look at the carrier bearings and see what they indicate. i straightened the axle as good as i could with what i had... could be fine, but a 3 k trip might start a problem.

metal never forgets.

 

[SenorNoob]

...metal never forgets.

That's very philosophical...

 

[Snoranger]

yup...


the problem is that both of your carriers had the ever living fawk beat out of them.....the rear axle was bent so bad the locker couldnt disengage.

This changes everything.
If you’re in need of a full rebuild, just bite the bullet and build a 60 in the first place.

 

[Jim Oaks]

I'd need at least $6k to get a set of D60's and install new gears and lockers.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I think they're talking just a rear 60 which are near free, isn't that what Dodge used in the 1500's? They were the same 6 lug stock...

 

[Jim Oaks]

GM made a 6-lug 14-bolt rear.