Dana 28 Manual Lock Outs


ford4wd08

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TN - USA
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How do you tell when manual lock out hubs are worn out and need to be replaced?

The ones on my BII still function, but when you turn the switch from lock to unlock, the plastic is very loose. It will stay in the locked position, but makes me wonder if they're aren't better options out there?

I believe they are the original OEM lock outs, but the plastic handles have been hot over the years from disc brakes and slightly wrapped. I remember one getting completely melted when I was a teenager and I found some stock replacement ones.

I'm not aware of a metal handle replacement, so I guess the next best option would be to buy new ones from Mile Marker? Or search for old NOS Warn ones?
 
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I believe you can get new ones from AVM...they are on eBay. If you get some, disassemble them prior to putting them on your truck and lube everything really well, and check for burs. Mine would bind up and only partially lock.

To answer your original question though, there is the outer dial which is attached to a plastic cam inside the hub. When you turn the dial, it turns the cam and some pieces lock together. They are actually really easy to take apart and clean, you just need a little flat screwdriver, needle nose pliers and maybe a snap ring pliers. Might be a good idea to clean them up and inspect everything. You should know right away if they're worn out... chunks of metal and glitter will be the clue.
 
I believe you can get new ones from AVM...they are on eBay. If you get some, disassemble them prior to putting them on your truck and lube everything really well, and check for burs. Mine would bind up and only partially lock.

To answer your original question though, there is the outer dial which is attached to a plastic cam inside the hub. When you turn the dial, it turns the cam and some pieces lock together. They are actually really easy to take apart and clean, you just need a little flat screwdriver, needle nose pliers and maybe a snap ring pliers. Might be a good idea to clean them up and inspect everything. You should know right away if they're worn out... chunks of metal and glitter will be the clue.

I've never had any trouble with glitter on mine the few times I've had them off, just the locking part is loose. I can change the plastic switch with a phillips head screw of I remember correctly. I'll try to snap some pictures and show what I mean later today.

There are some Warns out there NOS, but they're proud of them.
 
I just found 2 complete sets and one torn apart set of D-28 hubs on Friday in my stockpile. Of course, I was looking for a D-35 hub which I didn’t find…
 
I seem to recall buying these switches for the lockouts from a guy who 3 d printed them on Facebook, they definitely have warped since I've installed it.

I do remember the OEM ones being melted or loose as well.

@Shran know any fixes for the handles themselves?

 
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Mile Marker and AVM still offer hubs for the Dana 28.

Personally, I'd go with AVM:


AVM also makes the Xtreme hubs for the Dana 35 which are stronger than the old Jeep hubs.

I looked into the tech library article and looked up all of the options listed.

Mile Markers are probably all I'll ever need. I only use 4x4 occasionally to drive through wet pastures to check on cows and when we have snow maybe once a year.

I found a listing for them on eBay where you can make an offer on the Mile Markers new (~$150), lets see what I can get them for.
 
I may have a rando old used Warn/OEM D28 manual hub you could have for the cost of shipping (like $5) if you need a spare or something.
 
I've never seen the dials melt - wheel bearings get really hot or something? Usually they just get really brittle from sitting in the sun and crumble apart. 3D printed ones could do that pretty easily especially with PLA or other low temp plastics, I'd think you would want to use ABS/PC/nylon for that.

I think you'll be fine with the AVMs as long as you clean & inspect them before installation.
 
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I've never seen the dials melt - wheel bearings get really hot or something? Usually they just get really brittle from sitting in the sun and crumble apart. 3D printed ones could do that pretty easily especially with PLA or other low temp plastics, I'd think you would want to use ABS/PC/nylon for that.

The old stock ones definitely melted, but that was probably on the original brakes and bearings. I can remember the brakes getting hot one time.

I actually found the old set in my shop last night. I'll snap a picture and show what they can do if the hubs get hot :LOL:

I have replaced and repacked bearings with Timkens since then.

I'd say it was PLA that they were printed out of.
 
I may have a rando old used Warn/OEM D28 manual hub you could have for the cost of shipping (like $5) if you need a spare or something.

I think I'm good for now, but I'll let you know if I ended up needing them.
 

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