D30 SAS Ranger build

[B-Train]

1994 Ford Ranger 4.0 4x4 Auto

Got a XJ Dana 30 HP with 297x joints, non CAD..

Parts I’ve got so far:
RuffStuff 4link Long arms
CavFab 1 Ton High Clearance steering
5.5” Rubicon Express Xj coils
Bilstein shocks
Unknown adjustable track bar

Waiting on drop Pitman Arm, and 4.10 gears

 

[B-Train]

 

[B-Train]

Plated the frame and used Ballistic Fab adjustable coil buckets, still gotta do the shock mounts but working on the drivers side now

 

[JMF661]

Was the line up of the transfer case to the new differential pretty similar to the stock TTB?

 

[B-Train]

Yeah pretty close, since they are both high pinion axles. the only reason my driveshaft is a little farther back is because I moved the axle forward about and 1.5”, the Dana 30s has the coil mounts offset forward off the center of the axle, so i compensated a little

 

[Bracket racer]

I saw the triangulation bar and thought, "ooh, good idea"!!

Love solid front axles, looks good so far.

What's the strength difference from a dana 35 to a dana 30?
I'd like a solid front too but am thinking of narrowing a ttb 44 because all I see around here are 30's and am concerned with strength. Is this unfounded??

 

[B-Train]

Dana 30s are good for about 33” tires, I wouldn’t run anything bigger on it, with gears locker and truss they are tough but not 44 tough. The Dana 35 is actually stronger if u look at the specs on both the 35 and 30. There’s a axle info page on this site somewhere that compares the two. The only reason I hate a 35 is because it’s independent, I can’t stand them

 

[B-Train]

Cut some of the power steering hump out and plated it back up with 1/4” steel, welded and painted

 

[JMF661]

Man that came out pretty slick.

 

[B-Train]

Got the new brakes on, and threw my tires on! I threw a 2.75” lift block on the rear and the front is still 2” higher, gonna get some lift shackles and atleast that will be done for when I get some 63 Chevy springs, ordering some long brakes lines now

 

[bobbywalter]

I saw the triangulation bar and thought, "ooh, good idea"!!

Love solid front axles, looks good so far.

What's the strength difference from a dana 35 to a dana 30?
I'd like a solid front too but am thinking of narrowing a ttb 44 because all I see around here are 30's and am concerned with strength. Is this unfounded??

Looks ok....the steering at the tie point is a bit curious.


The difference with sub 250 HP and 35 in tires is negligible. Depending on the terrain your wheeling in the 30 can be be much stronger.

Swapping in a ttb 44.....I would keep it full width.

 

[B-Train]

Looks ok....the steering at the tie point is a bit curious.


The difference with sub 250 HP and 35 in tires is negligible. Depending on the terrain your wheeling in the 30 can be be much stronger.

Swapping in a ttb 44.....I would keep it full width.

Thanks for the feedback what exactly do u mean by tie point?

 

[bobbywalter]

The shape of your drag link where it connects to the tie rod.

 

[B-Train]

Oh gotcha, well the tie rod is bolted on bottom of knuckle and drag link on top, they are the crossover high clearance and they are curved inwards at the knuckles to push the steering forward away from the axle, the drag link is floppy because of the high misalignment washers. They aren’t touching but close. If they were just straight and not curved it probably would look better

 

[Bracket racer]

The difference with sub 250 HP and 35 in tires is negligible. Depending on the terrain your wheeling in the 30 can be be much stronger.

That's a good point, now that I think of it, everybody around here says 30's are glass and blow up all the time/junk. But I just remembered my cousin has a 4.0L cherokee with a 30 running 38's for the clearance and has never broke anything, but he's also never spun a tire either. Right foot might have more to do with it than overall strength. (which in that case, I need a fully built 60 up front lol!!)