D28 axles

[Rinny650]

Yeah the drivers side is out and the whole carrier is unbolted and hanging but I cant get the third member from between the left and right beams

 

[RangerSVT]

Hear you go, step by step:Remove tires, brakes, rotors, spindles, and driver side axle, sway bar end links and unbolt shocks from radius arms. On driver side, remove coil spring, lossen, but don't remove upper and lower bolts attaching the radius arm to the beam, then remove the radius arm nut and bushings. Unbolt driver side beam from pivot bracket, cut passenger side axle boot clamp, located about 10 inches from differential and slide beam from under truck. Pivot radius arm towards knuckle and remove 6 inch bolt attaching side of differential to beam, remove front bolts attaching differential to beam, remove differential. You do not have to reinstall the differential casing, just the beam.
Delete all parts EXCEPT spindles, wheel bearings and seals, inner, outer and locking spindle nut washer, and locking hubs. These are the required parts to allow rims and tire to be mounted and vehicle driven.
SVT

 

[Rinny650]

Well chit. I wish I would have asked before I put the left side back together. I guess Im gonna put the right side back together and then unbolt the left radius arm and slide the left beam forward and let the diff drop.

So I dont need to have the diff back in the beam? It wont reduce strength of the beam any?

 

[RangerSVT]

No, you don't. The differential is aluminum and the way it bolts to the beam does not add to the strength. If it completed boxing the beam in I'd say yeah, but by only bolting to the flat side of the beam. You can bolt it in if you'd like for a little mental strength, but since you are not going to use any of it anyway, I don't see a reason to bolt up unused parts.
SVT