Best key hating thread ever..and i looooove it!! lol.
Yup... keys essentially do the same thing as cranking your bars. To understand what they do, you must first understand how torsion bars work. Hex hole in the lower control arm, hex hole in the torsion keys, torsion bars have matching front and rear hex ends that slide into these holes. They twist and act as springs. If you rotate the hole on the torsion key side, or crank the adjustment hole clockwise, this inturn pivots the lower control arm down and gives you lift. With those lift torsion keys, you not only have the adjustability of the bolt, but you also rotate the hole in the key...that added with bolt cranking = aweful balljoint angles, aweful CV shaft angles, and no down travel at all. Oh...and harsh ride because of that no downtravel.
Pretty much...lift torsion keys allow you to crank farther than you should. Lift keys work great on some vehicles like fullsize chevy's. But on Rangers, they just don't do any good. It's not the keys themselves that are the problem...it's what happens to the associated parts in relation to the keys.
You can get about 2" out of your stock keys as-is and that's only if your bars are saggy bastards(B or F bars). If I were you, I'd go get some #1 bars. They'll keep any 'lift' that you got out of the crank as they have a higher weight rating(highest avaliable on Rangers)
So......balljoints=$400. tierods=$80. Alignment=$75-150. Lift torsion keys = $250. Having a 3-4" torsion key lift and spending at least $500 a year in parts and more on labor = priceless.
Oh....sure...there's beefier shafts out there........but they run about $500 a pop.