CV Joint?


redrider11

15+ Year Member

Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
114
Points
3,101
City
NC
Vehicle Year
2002
Transmission
Automatic
I was wondering if anyone made upgraded CV Joints for an 02 ranger. I was thinking about putting torsion keys on my truck but i dont the wear out the joints to wear out really fast.
Thanks
 
I was wondering if anyone made upgraded CV Joints for an 02 ranger. I was thinking about putting torsion keys on my truck but i dont the wear out the joints to wear out really fast.
Thanks

They are a waste. Just crank your t bars.
 
well i thought i could get the keys that lifted the truck up 2in. but like i said i dont want my joints going bad so fast.
 
im not right now but if someone makes stronger and longer lasting ones than the stock ones i can put those on along with the keys and wont have to worry about anything.
 
You still have ball joints to worry about. The torsion keys are going to do the same thing as cranking your torsion bars. Why do you want the torsion key?
 
well I only want like 2" to 3" of lift on my truck and there keys that give you that amount of lift but they put excessive where on the cv joints. I cant find any other way to lift my truck that much the smallest lift they make is 4" but that is way to expensive for me.
 
well I only want like 2" to 3" of lift on my truck and there keys that give you that amount of lift but they put excessive where on the cv joints. I cant find any other way to lift my truck that much the smallest lift they make is 4" but that is way to expensive for me.

How about a body lift? I think they're like $150 on summit. If you crank your bars or put the keys in you're going to lose travel.
 
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TorsionBar.html

Don't waste your money on torsion keys.....you can get the same thing for free, plus the cost of a wheel alignment. If you only go up around 2" there will be minimal wear to the CV shafts if anything. The balljoints might wear a bit quicker, but not much.
 
Best key hating thread ever..and i looooove it!! lol.



Yup... keys essentially do the same thing as cranking your bars. To understand what they do, you must first understand how torsion bars work. Hex hole in the lower control arm, hex hole in the torsion keys, torsion bars have matching front and rear hex ends that slide into these holes. They twist and act as springs. If you rotate the hole on the torsion key side, or crank the adjustment hole clockwise, this inturn pivots the lower control arm down and gives you lift. With those lift torsion keys, you not only have the adjustability of the bolt, but you also rotate the hole in the key...that added with bolt cranking = aweful balljoint angles, aweful CV shaft angles, and no down travel at all. Oh...and harsh ride because of that no downtravel.

Pretty much...lift torsion keys allow you to crank farther than you should. Lift keys work great on some vehicles like fullsize chevy's. But on Rangers, they just don't do any good. It's not the keys themselves that are the problem...it's what happens to the associated parts in relation to the keys.

You can get about 2" out of your stock keys as-is and that's only if your bars are saggy bastards(B or F bars). If I were you, I'd go get some #1 bars. They'll keep any 'lift' that you got out of the crank as they have a higher weight rating(highest avaliable on Rangers)

So......balljoints=$400. tierods=$80. Alignment=$75-150. Lift torsion keys = $250. Having a 3-4" torsion key lift and spending at least $500 a year in parts and more on labor = priceless.




Oh....sure...there's beefier shafts out there........but they run about $500 a pop.
 
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