• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Custom Explorer Chassis Build


Just a comment on the design of the rear end. The idea is to have as little unsprung weight as possible, notice the inboard disk brakes. these rear ends look impressive in the pictures but you really have to see them live to fully appreciate them. This is a really impressive build and the videos of some of your machinery has me and I'm sure a few more on here drooling all over their keyboards.

the inboard brakes arent the part that i dont like, its the axle shaft and u-joints having all that extra load on them. anyways, the project looks amazing, ive been keeping my eye on this one.
 
I agree it looks like someone forgot the upper suspension parts but Jag has been using this setup for fifty years so it must work.
 
I only snapped 1 pic tonight but all of the inside shear load gussets are formed and welded up now.
normal_IMG00095-20090916-2106.jpg
 
Todays update, I trimmed both sides of the m2 crossmember then formed and tig welded a filler panel on the one side. I would have got more done but I had parts to build as well. I need to quit takin pics at night with my blackberry lol.

normal_IMG00096-20090917-1452.jpg


normal_IMG00100-20090917-2043.jpg
 
so your gonna drop that engine off at my house later today right? lol just kidding, but i would love to have it.
 
haha I dont even have it here the customer emailed me the pics of it, its at the motor shop in Indy with the body and rest of the truck I just have the chassis her.
 
Todays update: I formed and welded up the other sides boxing plate on the front crossmember and then metal finnished both sides. I also took the flap disk to some of the frame rails as well and wiped them down with wd40 to keep them from rusting.

normal_IMG00109-20090924-1637.jpg
 
Spent a few hours tonight grinding the rest of the chassis to bare metal, then I wipped the whole chassis down with wd40 to prevent rust. I also bolted the rearend and front control arms back on. And started playing around with the bag placement.

normal_IMG00112-20090925-2029.jpg


normal_IMG00113-20090925-2030.jpg


normal_IMG00114-20090925-2227.jpg


normal_IMG00114-20090925-2231.jpg
 
Here are some pics of the chassis at Dropt N Destroyed 6. Thanks to everybody that stopped by and said hi!

normal_IMG00129-20091003-1617.jpg


normal_IMG00128-20091003-1617.jpg


normal_IMG00130-20091003-1618.jpg


normal_IMG00131-20091003-1618.jpg
 
Here are some pics of the chassis at Dropt N Destroyed 6. Thanks to everybody that stopped by and said hi!

damn, i shoulda went. i thought about it but when it came down to that weekend, i forgot all about it. :annoyed:
 
Soooo, any updates?? How think are the main framerails, in the pics they look like 1/8 thick:icon_confused:
SVT
 
no i think everything is 3/16. soem stuff MIGHT be 1/4

1/8 is too thin
 
I have some pics to upload the front bag brackets are finnished I just haven't been online much lately. The main rails are 2x4 1/8" wall. On 2x3 I usually run 3/16" unless it has a cage built in, then you can go smaller. The shear load gussets are 1/8", some of the stuff from Heidts is a little bit thicker and some of the parts I have cut out on the cnc were thicker as well. Just depending on the location and purpose. Just out to prove everything in the air ride industry anymore is overbuilt as long as its engineered correctly its perfictly fine :)
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top