2.3L ('02-'11) crank no start

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Good advice in my opinion Brain.

So " TheSearsGuy " we will be waiting for your reply.

 

[TheSearsGuy]

No problem, I was hoping I wasn't too preachy or came off as a smart ass.... I can come off as a know it all a-hole pretty easy sometimes.

Back to the OP's issue if I can steer us... How bad was the gas? - that will tell us if you definitely clogged the injectors.
If it just didn't look right and smelled a little off it might still flow through.
If it smelled sweet and rotten at the same time (like a big bucket of rotten fruit), was orange and chunky...
Well then yeah it would clog the schrader - should have removed the schrader core not just depressed it, and it will clog the injectors.... Time to go to harbor freight and get a couple tools so you can open up the fuel rail and clean it all out.

First I'd watch a video or two to get ideas about how to make an cleaning fitting and the general process.

I'd run through a junkyard on the way and chop off a 1' wiring pigtail for an injector as long as I was out and about first, one spare injector (so I could have it in hand at home depot next)...
Then homedepot/parts store for a couple bits and bobs (fitting/tubing) to make a fuel injector cleaner adapter and a can of carb cleaner...

the gas was bad, like a year bad, and turpentine smelling, but not chunky when i siphoned it out of the tank.
when i hit the schrader valve after bumping the key, i get a good spew of fuel. it's been a few days since i touched it...i've glared at it a few times even though i know that doesnt help.

illdo some video searching about injectors and cleaning them. there is a upullit here and they usually have a ranger or twelve.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Thanks for the update Guy
Please keep us posted.

 

[Brain75]

Just in case you haven't searched here a bunch and read the preaching.... aftermarket fuel injectors aren't really hit and miss, they just about are all crap. Don't decide you will just buy new injectors to solve the problem, the OEM ones are better than anything you can buy. Only 2 ways to get as good as the originals, clean em yourself or send em to a rebuild place (typically you send in FoMoCo "cores" and they will send you back whatever you specify willing to take - ask for FoMoCo or Bosch).

Question for the peanut gallery.... if a guy took his distributor cap off (or equivelant - disable spark) and then ran a buttload of carb cleaner through the injection system and cranked it enough to purge out the engine would it be fine or would that wash off the walls entirely / dry out the rings, etc too much? I was just musing about trying to clean out the fuel rail without removing it....

 

[Brain75]

FWIW, you might be able to fab up the disconnect tool if you have a few things around the shop and a little patience...
Harbor freight has em so cheap you probably can't fab em that cheap even...

Fuel Line and A/C Quick Disconnect Tool, 6 Piece

Amazing deals on this Fuel Line And A/C Quick Disconnect Tool at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I honestly don't know the true answer to what you asked Brain.

However if you was to do just what you described you'd want to then run some oil into your cylinder sleeves and recoat the rings and so on with the ignition system still disconnected. At least that's what I would believe or do believe I should say.
Maybe change the oil if you got a lot of carburetor cleaner or whatever it was you used to clean fuel system out in the oil.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Just my thoughts.