Core Support

[bobbywalter]

The bit I used cost $14.00, IIRC they come in 5/16" and 3/8";

I tried others, this was the best. I didn't use the holes I drilled out for bolts as they didn't match the used core I got, that's why I went with sheet metal screws.

thats why i use a spotweld cutter.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I am under the assumption that the bit in the photo IS a spot weld cutter, I couldn't remember the term at the time. If it's not, enlighten me please, I like to know better ways of doing things.....it's one of the reasons I frequent this forum.
Thanks,

Richard

 

[bobbywalter]

it is one type.

if you dont drill through both pieces its actually easier then grinding like the other type...other type is easier to depth cut the top piece though.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I tried the spot weld cutter as in your pic, it was one I had trouble with. Perhaps because it was a cheap PA/HF type. I couldn't get it to stay in one spot. I tried pre-drilling a 1/8" hole but quickly came to the conclusion that was a time waster. [edit; perhaps it would have been better if the retractable center pin had a stiffer spring as well as a sharper hardened point?] That's when I found the one I pictured.
Thanks,

Richard

 

[dogboy]

The bit like AlwaysFloored posted is all we use at work. They are 25-30 bucks for a good one (we use doubled ended bits, I don't know what a single end runs), but it's worth it. The particular one I'm using right now, has drilled the side off a t-boned Focus/parts car cut, a t-boned Sport Trac, and core support/side aprons on an Escape.

As for the core support, I would NOT recommend the Certifit (or Sortafit). From my experience they get the parts that other dealers don't want. Im sure it's cheaper for a reason. I've never put in an aftermarket core support, but thier sheet metal sucks... I put a whole Certifit nose on my Ranger 5 years ago, and will never do it again.

Before you drill it apart, make sure you use a pick/screw driver to mark the side aprons everywhere that the core support was, so that you know where to put the new one. If you dont, I'm sure you'll regret it.

 

[shane96ranger]

The bit like AlwaysFloored posted is all we use at work. They are 25-30 bucks for a good one (we use doubled ended bits, I don't know what a single end runs), but it's worth it. The particular one I'm using right now, has drilled the side off a t-boned Focus/parts car cut, a t-boned Sport Trac, and core support/side aprons on an Escape.

As for the core support, I would NOT recommend the Certifit (or Sortafit). From my experience they get the parts that other dealers don't want. Im sure it's cheaper for a reason. I've never put in an aftermarket core support, but thier sheet metal sucks... I put a whole Certifit nose on my Ranger 5 years ago, and will never do it again.

Before you drill it apart, make sure you use a pick/screw driver to mark the side aprons everywhere that the core support was, so that you know where to put the new one. If you dont, I'm sure you'll regret it.

If $225 is too much for Josh to have it shipped from LMC, then the dealer won't be any better - if they still carry it even.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Just build a core support out of tubing, cheap and rust proof.

-PlumCrazy

 

[shane96ranger]

Just build a core support out of tubing, cheap and rust proof.

-PlumCrazy

I've seen pics on TRS of a really nice square tube support. Was it yours Plum?



EDIT: I just called the dealer on my 97 F150 core support. First though, Certifit wants 70 some odd dollars. The dealer.... $652.52 - OUCH!

 

[PlumCrazy]

Yessir

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55201&page=18

Page 18 & 19.

-PlumCrazy

 

[bobbywalter]

oh yeah....with bigger engines i always hack the core support.


its retarded to expect to cool 400 hp within the confines of the factory setup...

its doable for many parts of the country....but if your whooping on those ponies its a futile effort. so theres no reason a guy cant do like plum and greatly improve the factory setup even with a factory powertrain....

this wont really fit in a factory core support

but you can force it and come out stronger in the end compared to that factory junk anyway.

i kill alot of deer annually with this truck....still has the factory fenders start cutting and fabbing till you get what you want then if you do swap a 351 or 5.4 in down the road it will be that much easier

 

[JoshT]

As for the core support, I would NOT recommend the Certifit (or Sortafit). From my experience they get the parts that other dealers don't want. Im sure it's cheaper for a reason. I've never put in an aftermarket core support, but thier sheet metal sucks... I put a whole Certifit nose on my Ranger 5 years ago, and will never do it again.

Cheaper? The LMC unit is only costs 30 bucks more if the one from Certifit is same $70 as mentioned earlier. Everybody should know that LMC had a nice mark-up on their stuff, so I wouldn't consider the Certifit cheaper. Ford dealers no longer carry stuff for the first gen trucks, the few things they do have are only because they also fit later models. The only other aftermarket source for a core support I've found is BG.

Hell if the LMC support were $150, with $75 shipping I would probably buy it. But I've already bitched about that once in this thread.

If I replace it I'll probably buy from Certifit or BG. Want to check with Certifit on the actual price, and to see if they will ship. I just haven't had a chance to call yet. I'm working 12 hours shifts, 5 days a week right now and haven't had a chance to call. The place isn't open yet before I go to work, and when I get off its already closed.

Just build a core support out of tubing, cheap and rust proof.

-PlumCrazy

oh yeah....with bigger engines i always hack the core support.


its retarded to expect to cool 400 hp within the confines of the factory setup...

its doable for many parts of the country....but if your whooping on those ponies its a futile effort. so theres no reason a guy cant do like plum and greatly improve the factory setup even with a factory powertrain....

this wont really fit in a factory core support

i kill alot of deer annually with this truck....still has the factory fenders start cutting and fabbing till you get what you want then if you do swap a 351 or 5.4 in down the road it will be that much easier

This is a street truck that might see the occasional show so a tube support wouldn't really fit my intents. I'll think about opening the hole up a little and maybe brace it with some tubing. I still gotta be able to fit a condenser and a transmission cooler up there as well. The biggest engine I'll be putting in this truck is a 347 stroker. That reminds me, I'd also like to leave a little room up front for an intercooler.

The dead deer will be in the back of the truck not the front. Actually they'll be in the back of the 99 4wd Ranger. Now that truck might end up with a tube core support if I keep it. Haven't decided if I want to keep that truck and drop in a different engine, or if I want to move to a larger (older) truck.

Option 1 (preferred): Find a 68-72 F-series 2 or 4wd. My dad has a 70 F-100 4wd. It's regular cab, long bed with warmed up (but tired) 390FE and 4 speed manual (I like that really low first, but no OD sucks). It's main problem is in the past it was used as a farm truck and hauled fertilizer, so now the body is almost falling off. Dad bought a 2000 F-250 diesel to replace it, and the old F-100 has been sitting in the same spot for probably the past 8 years. I'd like to re-body, find a 5 speed overdrive transmission, install A/C, upgrade the brakes, and modernize the 390 (EFI, heads, etc). I really love the old Bump sides.

Option 2: Keep the 99. Drop in a V8 or an Ecoboost motor. I like the potential of the Ecoboost, but to me it seems more practical for a street truck than a pulling/4wd/ hunting truck. The if I went mod motor it'd be a drivetrain swap from a 4.6L Explorer. The idea I've been toying with for it recently is to use an AWD 5.0L Explorer for the drivetrain and EFI system, but swap the 5.0 for a 351. This is simply a maybe someday idea so I haven't done any research into what would be required to make the 351 work in that set-up.

I really prefer option 1, when the time comes it'll depend on what I can find as a donor. Body donor or drive train donor.

 

[bobbywalter]

eco boost

 

[JoshT]

Don't know, I'm kinda thinking about a completely different project for an Eco-boost.

My problem is I like the engines and engine technology that's coming to market now, but I can't stand the sheet metal (or plastic as the case may be). I love the older sheet metal, but don't really want to deal with the older engine technology. Even the 99 Ranger falls into this, I bought it because it was the right truck at the right time. I needed a newer reliable vehicle to get back and forth to school and work, and wanted a 4wd for hunting and camping. If at that time I had another reliable vehicle, I would have found a 83-92 4wd instead. To me the perfect mesh is old sheet metal with modern (or at least modernized) drive trains.

I'm about to have the 86 Ranger running a 302 with '98 EFI tech. I'd like to have an older full size 4wd truck, that's where the F-100 comes in. I'm also thinking an older mid-size to large car would be nice.

I'm thinking the F-100 in 4wd. Keep the BB, find an OD trans or install an add-on OD unit. As mentioned find a way to swap in better brakes. I think it's got a D44 and 9" and both can definitely be converted. I'm not interested in rock crawling or mud bogging. I want to build it as more of a nice work/hunting truck combo, and wouldn't go over a 33" tire. Those axles should be plenty strong enough for my purposes. As for the engine I'd take the existing 390 and simply rebuild it. From what I was told it already has the high performance car heads and intake, it's just getting tired. I'd like to add EFI for mostly reliability and because I don't want to fool with a carburetor, but if I find that it's more than I want to spend I'll go carb. My biggest problem with carbs in the past was that the carb was too large for the engine, a 390 4bbl Holley (both double pumper and vacuum secondary) on a 2.8L V6. The wildest I'd go is to install new aftermarket heads, a better cam, and an MPFI system.

I'm thinking about the Eco-boost for a car. Was originally thinking about a 60s Mustang coupe, but have pretty much tossed that idea. Now I'm leaning towards something a little larger preferably 2 doors, but with a large enough back seat to ride two adults comfortably. Thinking something along the lines of a Torino or maybe a Fairlane preferably in the fastback variety. The catch is I want to be able to use is as a daily driver and take it on trips. That means reliability, and efficiency come first, power and wow factor come second. To me the Eco-boost would fit that role nicely. It's got the reliability (hopefully), it supposed to be efficient, and from everything I've heard it's got plenty of power on tap to do the job. It should get decent mileage going back and forth to work, while have the power to be fun on tap when I want it. Sure hot rodders everywhere would shun me, but I don't care it's my vehicle built my way.

 

[JoshT]

I'm also thinking that I need to quit thinking about the next build, and get busy on this one. Need to get up from this chair, eat some quick dinner and hit the sack. Got to head to work in 7 hours.