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Coolant/Radiator Problem?


i would change the cylinder heads, rad, pump, thermostat, hoses do a tune-up and the damn syncro while your at it
Thats a little overkill dont you think??? why change cylinder heads, have them pressure checked and surfaced and you got like 90 bucks into them instead of whatever new heads cost. I can see the thermostat, pump, hoses and tune up. and probally the cam synchro, but Radiator and heads??? you must have alot more money than me!!!!
Beef
 
i agree the heads are overkill, if his radiator has a leak like he described and its in the seam of the sidetank hell need a new one anyway...4.0 upgrade anybody? the squealing may be water from a pinhole in the line on the belt or tensioner bearings, they like to act up (as weve seen in numerous posts). the problem at hand currently is the cooling system, isolate and fix this problem first b4 going to the next set of problems. if its major and its related to the current problem fix it while your at it, but if its not related get the major stuff out of the way and dont sweat the small stuff til your ducks are in a row. then you can sit down w/ a .22 and knock them out!
 
200 bucks isnt that much for two remaned heads. He said his rad is leaking so he needs to change it. Around here machine shops take awhile thats why i got two reman heads. Its my only vehicle and i needed to fix it in one shot. Sorry I should have elaborated.
 
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Another thing to check is the lower radiator hose. Had a '62 Falcon with a built SBC (wierd, but pulled the wheels going into 2nd). Used to overheat every time I cruised at more than 40mph. But it could sit at idle all day, never even think about getting hot. The PO had removed the spring supporting the inside of the lower radiator hose, and at higher speeds, the water pump was sucking the hose shut. Do that long enough, you will make steam, blow out the coolant, get an air pocket, and get into a vicious circle.
 
when he said the hose collapsed b4 i recommended changing it for the reason you stated above oldfordman. ive done that b4 and a friend of mine done it and the hose started coming apart, pumped it thru the block stopped up the block and fried the motor. def have a gander at the hose.
 
well, we replaced the radiator, the supply and return hoses, rechecked the new thermostat, pressure tested it again, flushed it again. EGR issues went away with the replacement of the EGR valve. This past Saturday I was driving up a highway in my Area (I-476 in Pennsylvania) about 4 miles into the trip it spiked on high again and I had to turn around.

I like rurouni's idea and I think I'm going to give it a shot next.
 
Any luck yet?

To the OP ...
Did you ever get this fixed? The bottom hose was your last intent to try.
I sent you a PM and in that I mentioned that I have been having the same exact prob. Mine started with a leak at the top rad hose clamp - which led me on a wild chase replacing rad, water pump, rad cap, heater valve. Finally after replacing the t-stat with a Ford oem part (after buying 2 Stants) I can at least drive it without it spiking.
One thing I did learn, and I think you may be making the same mistake I was ..is that you cannot fill the radiator to the top. I had to fill it to the level of the top hose on the radiator - where it connects. Reconnect that hose, and then open the heater hose at the heater valve and put a bit more in till it runs out there. After that fill the resevoir about half way.
I still have not had it checked at a shop to see if any gases show up in the coolant. It still acts a bit odd in that if it gets too much activity, it sends some coolant into the resevoir, but in all this it has at least stopped spiking and going all the way down and all.

Hope you read this so you can post back.
 
did you fix it yet, it definitely sounds like an air bubble they are pressure filled from the factory. my best guess to fix it is to get the front of the truck in the air and hopefully the air bubble will come out. before you say WTF I got this from a FORD FACTORY GUY!
 

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