Common starter issue, fix??

[Terry]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

[Terry]

This is what the plate looks like. I cleaned it real good and applied my first coat of liquid metal. Looks like not only was it worn to where the old starter was but it also looks like it was not flat either. So far I have 20 dollars in the fix. I also miked the thickness .056 so I can find some stock at work in case I have to resort to plan b.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Well, I'll eat my words....

I took some pics of a 4.0/manual plate;



It looks like the rectangular holes to the bottom right are for location purposes, as well as the two slots that go around the dowels;



And the stamp on the plate;



I don't have a 2.9 to compare.

 

[Terry]

Well, I'll eat my words....

I took some pics of a 4.0/manual plate;



It looks like the rectangular holes to the bottom right are for location purposes, as well as the two slots that go around the dowels;



And the stamp on the plate;



I don't have a 2.9 to compare.

That plate looks great. My 2.9 plate has a few extra holes as well.

 

[Terry]

Well after three coats of liquid metal it came out flat. I bolted the starter in and cranked it over a bunch of times and no more issues. I did this fix for under twenty dollars including buying a rat tail file. A much cheaper fix than buying random expensive parts that don't fix the problem.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

[LiLBellboy]

My fix was a scrapped my 84 Bronco 2. This seems to be a more common problem with the manual transmission 2.8L and 2.9L vehicles. Nobody really seems to have a true fix, rust and having a starter that wouldn't stay properly positioned led to the demise of my 84 bronco 2. There's only 1 starter for the vehicle there isn't a difference between auto or manual starters, at least I haven't found an auto and manual starter listed anywhere. The starter in my 84 bronco 2 had through bolts, cranking those down as tight as I could with locking washers, and locking nuts and lock-tite didn't fix the problem either.

Hello, I'm not meaning to under mind anyone that's giving advice, but from my observations of actually having both "standard" and an "automatic" start in front of me and by mic'n it there is a difference being one nose cone is shorter than the other. Now weather or not it was a defect from the manufacturer I dont know that I do in fact know i tried both and the shorter nose cone seemed and did turn the truck over a bit better without any grinding or bad noises. Again this could have be off from the manufacturer lol and for the record my site hasn't gone bad yet and my mic's are regularly calibrated lol. (Got to have all ur ducks in a row in the forums sometimes) that's just what I experienced not 6 weeks ago.

 

[Terry]

I ended up replacing the spacer plate. I have not had any issues after that.

 

[LiLBellboy]

I ended up replacing the spacer plate. I have not had any issues after that.

Was it warped or was it just a difference in the thicknesses of the two plates?

 

[Terry]

The material is soft. Over time it smashes the material on the torque side of where it is bolted. Once the spot is worn, as much as you tighten it it will drift back to the same spot. spacing, thickness all the other stuff everyone says is not the issue. I fought this issue for almost two years. I tried everything. I bought a good spacer plate from a guy on here and never have had another problem.

 

[LiLBellboy]

ok thanks Terry I guess I'll give that a try since I'm working on my 7th starter like u said for almost 2 yrs now and I'm really just tired of it and I've got to much time invested just to turn around and get rid of it or let it beat me when I know for sure 2 yrs ago I never had any problems what so ever with this truck or starter it's just a pain in the ass to pull the transmission out again especially on these older models after doing it so many times (taking the trans out)other things start to mess up from having to take things apart so much so ur at risk of damaging something else weather its human error or faulty parts but I appreciate u taking the time to help me from ur experiences it will help alot with a positive attitude when I do it again thanks, I'm Craig u deserve a real name for the advice uve giving have a good evening.

 

[Terry]

Thanks, if I go thru the same type of crap you are going thru and can help someone else end the pain I will always do that. I built my current truck that I bought for 300 dollars with two trucks. I yo need any help with suspension I have gone thru that headache as well.

 

[Mmmorphine]

Just weld the starter in place LOL...that'll keep it from moving, might be a small problem if the starter fails in the future but hey it'll fix the dang starter jumping out of place problem HAHA!!!

That probably isn't a terrible idea... definitely not the best, but I'm considering anything at the moment.

I'm trying to avoid pulling the engine and at this point if that means the fix is temporary I hope the next owner has better luck finding a longer lasting fix. Throwing new starters at it seems to last the longest, but got old about the 3rd time.

I've already done the cresent shaped shims, those worked and then worked themselves out after a few days. Another attempt I made was shaving down the alignment lip on the starter unevenly all the way around so it would hold the starter in at a slight angle and that worked great until one of the the now weaker bolt hole tabs shit the bed.

Another idea I have, but never tried because it requires separating the engine from trans is to have a cnc make a 1/8" guid plate from steel with a little extra passed the starter to weld on a threaded tab facing the starter. If the same problem persist a bolt could be used to push the starter closer or at least hold it in place.

For now I might try aluminum wire with my mig and squirt a short bead between the starter case and alignment plate once I have the starter in the correct location. So it'll hopefully stop from settling in it's blown out hole. If that doesn't work my next action while the welder is out would probably be crawl back under to spark up the fuel tank.