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Cold air intake, need some advice.


I have a B2500 and purchased a K&N cold air intake kit and it had no improvement but pinged like crazy (which the 2.5 does fairly easily anyway) I took it off because I couldn't stand the constant pinging just driving down the street.

The dirt & oil the K&N passes will contaminate the MAF sensor. When this happens, it measures less air than is actually flowing, which causes a lean
condition. This lean condition will cause pinging.....
 
I still for the life of figure out how some of u guys r getn in the maf. I havent encountered this yet and im goin on 2 yrs with the k&n filter. The only time my 2.3 sound off is when i start it and its freezing outside.
 
Whenever I recharge the K&N on my Camaro I wipe out the intact tract with a paper towel and there is a bit of oily dust residue on the inside... Since it makes a 90 degree bend it usually gets plastered to one side of the intake...
 
Don't forget the fire hose looking thing that is in the fender wall attached to the beginning of the intake box. Basically undo to the box like you're changing the filter then the part that is still attached you want to take off and then the hose will be attached to that. I think it's to reduce noise but it has a small intake to it so I pulled it off and I might have gained some power. Who knows, but worth a try.
 
the same guys keep repeating the same thing about your maf getting covered in oil and i will say it again i had a 93 2.3 with a K&N on it for 10 years and never had a problem with oil on my sensor i'm really starting to think it's in there head's
 
well not that it should be resurrected but ill post my results here:

i bought a vacuum gage and installed on my trk not too long ago, just to see how things looked. i had my stock intake on the trk when i got it, thought i had a lil vacuum leak so i got the gage. installed i ran around 12 psi hammered 1st gear 30 mph. had a bit of a rough idle, mashed the brakes and the idle got smoother, psi went up some at idle, verified the air leak. well i went to look for it, seen a crinkle in the plastic tube that went from the 90 degree bend at the maf to the 60 degree bend in by the throttlebody, has a penis shaped knarl in it. took the tube off, holy smokes look at the resonator...but i had a crinkle in the end of it. so here i was going hmm, 90 degree bend at the maf cant be good, and this crinkle plus penis resonator isnt helping. so i take the maf off the airbox, install it in place of the plastic penis resonator in the 60 degree bend, start the trk. immediately it idles smoother and psi is normal where i pushed in the brake, no more leak. so i go to autozoo, get the scosche 3 inch adapter plate and 30 dollar conical filter. go home, put on the adapter plate to the maf (have to turn it sideways kind of and attach it w/ two bolts, done this to my 3.0 and worked fine for almost 100k, then the trk died, oil pump failure). install the filter to adapter plate, crank it up, take her down the road. romped on the engine again, 30 mph 1st gear, guess what? 12 psi. basically i have a cool sounding engine (yeah right...) and a reusable filter along w/ no more air leak for 40 bux worth of stuff, butt dyno doesnt really detect a dif, gage def proves there isnt one, but nonetheless dont have to hunt down penis resonator at jy. i realize im inserting warm air into the engine since the fan is right there, but to be honest the preheated air actually makes the engine idle a hair smoother, so im not complaining. fig i would post my findings to help clear this up for others and for those that want to copy my design can do so.
 
What kind of vacuum gauge do you have that measures in "PSI."shady
 
well i say psi, it my be kpa or whatever just a 25 dollar gage from autozone, sunpro makes it if i remember correctly. it pulled to past the 10 to 15 mark not quite to 15 closer to 10 so i say around 12. but needless to say the reading was identical w/ airbox and conical filter.
 

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