Clutch-OEM Self Adjusting vs Non Self Adj ?

[griggs]

I am tackling install of a new clutch in my 96 R 3.0L 2WD with 115k miles today. I see there is an aftermarket "Non Self Adjusting" type available vs the "OEM Self Adjusting" type. Not sure what the difference is. Is there some kind of manual adjustment on the "Non Self Adjusting" type? This is a daily driver vehicle and it needs to go another 100k miles. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks - Jerry in Kingston, WA

 

[MAKG]

115K miles is very slightly on the short side for clutch lifetime, but well within acceptable bounds.

Why you would want to add maintenance to that is beyond me. If OEM worked for you in the past, there is no reason to abandon it.

And I'm really not at all sure how one could possibly make a non self adjusting hydraulic clutch. Sounds very, VERY suspicious to me.

 

[griggs]

Agree with OEM. Both NAPA and Rock Auto sell bothtypes of clutches. Just thought there might be some other reason for changing from an OEM. Hey, another question - Can I get this tranny out without removing the exhaust cross over pipe. Looks like all the bolts are really rusty. Probably a twistem drillem deal.
Jerry

 

[MAKG]

Out? Yes with substantial effort, including prybars.

In? Not really.

Unless you have lifted suspension or body, V6 Y-pipes really have to come out. An alternative is to remove the radius arm bracket; this will allow you to lower the engine further. But you have to drill/grind four rivets to do that.

 

[Hahnsb2]

Agree with OEM. Both NAPA and Rock Auto sell bothtypes of clutches. Just thought there might be some other reason for changing from an OEM. Hey, another question - Can I get this tranny out without removing the exhaust cross over pipe. Looks like all the bolts are really rusty. Probably a twistem drillem deal.
Jerry

Me and my dad have changed more RBV trannys than I can remember, never once had to remove the y-pipe. Removing it almost always brings a new set of problems because the bolts are usually severly rusted.

 

[2manyfords]

Some will come out without removing the exhaust, automatics will for sure I've done more than one but never removed a standard without removing the exhaust.

 

[thegoat4]

I had to remove my y-pipe. Had to. I'm pretty good at squeezing parts in and out, but I wasn't going to win that fight.

 

[Bent Bolt]

I am tackling install of a new clutch in my 96 R 3.0L 2WD with 115k miles today. I see there is an aftermarket "Non Self Adjusting" type available vs the "OEM Self Adjusting" type. Not sure what the difference is. Is there some kind of manual adjustment on the "Non Self Adjusting" type? This is a daily driver vehicle and it needs to go another 100k miles. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks - Jerry in Kingston, WA

Ford had a self adjusting pressure plate in some of the rangers and f150's. You had to put them in a press and reset the adjusters if you wanted to reuse them. The new PP should be set already.

The point of self adjuster PP was to give the driver a consistent pedal feel as the clutch wears.