oddball101
Well-Known Member
So, after swapping my '01 5.0 to the '01 ranger I have had to use two keys, one for the ignition and one for the doors. I thought the donor doors were swapped already because they didn't work with the donor ignition key but it turns out I was wrong. They were just seized. In the process of inspecting them I learned a few things like how to remove the tumblers, differences in how they were shaped, etc. I figured I'd post this in case anyone else gets motivated and needs to do some work with their tumblers.
As for myself, I learned my lessons at the expense of a good working door lock. You pretty much have to destroy the door lock face plate in order to remove the lock cylinder by peeling back the wrapped edges. Didn't realize it was just seized until I already had it apart. Now I either have to purchase an entirely new one, or just replace the face plate.. Anybody know if I can do that, replace just the face plate?
On with the lock info...
Ignition lock cylinder
1. Ignition lock rear showing retaining ball

2. Ignition lock outer retaining pin removed --note that to the left of the retaining pin hole you can see the inner retaining ball through the much smaller pin-sized hole that needs to be depressed in order to remove the cylinder

3. Ignition lock position exposing inner retaining spring

4. Ignition lock retainer spring compression

I didn't have the proper tool to depress the ignition lock cylinder spring but as you can see, I tried to illustrate where you'd do so. It is at this point that I went on to the door lock and took it apart. My logic was to just replace the tumblers of the door lock with tumblers matching those in the ignition lock, thus re-keying the lock to work with mine. As I've already stated, the face plate gets unavoidably destroyed when removing it, so make sure that the tumblers are cleaned and freely moving before you do what I did and wreck a perfectly functional piece. I used a shot of carburetor cleaner on the door lock mechanism at first and then saturated it with pbBlaster. After running the key several times and twisting it, I found one spot where the tumbler wasn't moving and went to the sides with a sewing needle cleaning out the hardened dirt from the corners. After that the door lock freed up like it was cool and went back to normal. I sprayed the door lock a few more times and played with the key a bunch to ensure internal saturation and self satisfaction at figuring out how it all works together.
Door lock cylinder
1. Door lock rear showing rotation guide groves

2. Door lock tumblers without key

3. Door lock tumblers with key

4. Door lock tumblers removed in order and position

I hear about the lock kits that you can buy at places like autozone.. Do they have a face plate replacement? Is is there any way I can get one without replacing the whole door lock cylinder and paying the stealership when I could just fix this myself?
Hope the pics answer any lock questions for anybody that may be out there looking for it.
Any input is much appreciated.
As for myself, I learned my lessons at the expense of a good working door lock. You pretty much have to destroy the door lock face plate in order to remove the lock cylinder by peeling back the wrapped edges. Didn't realize it was just seized until I already had it apart. Now I either have to purchase an entirely new one, or just replace the face plate.. Anybody know if I can do that, replace just the face plate?
On with the lock info...
Ignition lock cylinder
1. Ignition lock rear showing retaining ball

2. Ignition lock outer retaining pin removed --note that to the left of the retaining pin hole you can see the inner retaining ball through the much smaller pin-sized hole that needs to be depressed in order to remove the cylinder

3. Ignition lock position exposing inner retaining spring

4. Ignition lock retainer spring compression

I didn't have the proper tool to depress the ignition lock cylinder spring but as you can see, I tried to illustrate where you'd do so. It is at this point that I went on to the door lock and took it apart. My logic was to just replace the tumblers of the door lock with tumblers matching those in the ignition lock, thus re-keying the lock to work with mine. As I've already stated, the face plate gets unavoidably destroyed when removing it, so make sure that the tumblers are cleaned and freely moving before you do what I did and wreck a perfectly functional piece. I used a shot of carburetor cleaner on the door lock mechanism at first and then saturated it with pbBlaster. After running the key several times and twisting it, I found one spot where the tumbler wasn't moving and went to the sides with a sewing needle cleaning out the hardened dirt from the corners. After that the door lock freed up like it was cool and went back to normal. I sprayed the door lock a few more times and played with the key a bunch to ensure internal saturation and self satisfaction at figuring out how it all works together.
Door lock cylinder
1. Door lock rear showing rotation guide groves

2. Door lock tumblers without key

3. Door lock tumblers with key

4. Door lock tumblers removed in order and position

I hear about the lock kits that you can buy at places like autozone.. Do they have a face plate replacement? Is is there any way I can get one without replacing the whole door lock cylinder and paying the stealership when I could just fix this myself?
Hope the pics answer any lock questions for anybody that may be out there looking for it.
Any input is much appreciated.
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