Check list of a full brake job on a 1991 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6

[muwaha]

Hey all,

I want to know if I am overlooking anything on doing a complete brake job on my truck (91 3.0 v6).

I know brake shoes and rotors for the front.
As for the back, I know drums, caliper kit, pads.
As for someone that is doing this for the very first time on a truck (I've had sedans in the past), can someone be kind enough to provide me a complete checklist of all parts to buy? and I apologize if I am misusing the terms, I'm still trying to learn.

 

[RobbieD]

God bless the do-it-yourselfers. My thoughts on a minimum "complete" brake job (off the top of my head).

PARTS
1- front pads (buy as a set of 4)
2- front rotors (2)
3- front inner bearings (2)
4- front outer bearings (2)
5- front seals (2)
6- plan on new front hardware: anti-rattle clips, slider pins (buy as a kit)
7- plan on new cotter pins for the front (parts or hardware store- match the old ones)
8- rear shoes (buy as a set of 4)
9- rear drums (2 new, or have your old ones turned, if in great shape and if labor is reasonable)
10- COMPLETE new hardware kit for the rears (contains all new small parts)

AND SINCE YOU'RE IN THERE DOING ALL OF THIS ANYWAY
Consider, or closely inspect, the flexible hoses on each side in the fronts and the one on the diff. Unless they're recent and perfect, now would be the time to put new ones on. There's 3 total, and they're not that expensive, either.

AND SINCE YOU'RE IN THERE DOING ALL OF THIS ANYWAY PART 2
Go over the parking brake cables, and repair or replace if needed.

REQUIRED CONSUMABLES
11- spray brake cleaner, probably at least 2 cans
12- big bottle of brake fluid. A lot of bleeding is better than not enough bleeding.
13- tub of wheel bearing grease
14- disc brake grease. A little is needed for the front pads and slide pins. The rear shoes also need a little anti-seize lube on the backing plate contact points. Some people use special grease for the rears, but I have used the disc brake grease front and rear. This can be bought in little packets, too.


OPTIONAL CONSUMABLE
15- rattle can of black spray paint, to hit the backing plates, and other stuff for protection now that you've got 'em nice and clean.



If your master cylinder, hard lines and RABS system are all in good shape, all of the stuff I've listed should bring your brakes up to an "as new" condition.

Again, that's off the top of my head, and I hope that I didn't miss anything.

 

[muwaha]

God bless the do-it-yourselfers. My thoughts on a minimum "complete" brake job (off the top of my head).

PARTS
1- front pads (buy as a set of 4)
2- front rotors (2)
3- front inner bearings (2)
4- front outer bearings (2)
5- front seals (2)
6- plan on new front hardware: anti-rattle clips, slider pins (buy as a kit)
7- plan on new cotter pins for the front (parts or hardware store- match the old ones)
8- rear shoes (buy as a set of 4)
9- rear drums (2 new, or have your old ones turned, if in great shape and if labor is reasonable)
10- COMPLETE new hardware kit for the rears (contains all new small parts)

AND SINCE YOU'RE IN THERE DOING ALL OF THIS ANYWAY
Consider, or closely inspect, the flexible hoses on each side in the fronts and the one on the diff. Unless they're recent and perfect, now would be the time to put new ones on. There's 3 total, and they're not that expensive, either.

AND SINCE YOU'RE IN THERE DOING ALL OF THIS ANYWAY PART 2
Go over the parking brake cables, and repair or replace if needed.

REQUIRED CONSUMABLES
11- spray brake cleaner, probably at least 2 cans
12- big bottle of brake fluid. A lot of bleeding is better than not enough bleeding.
13- tub of wheel bearing grease
14- disc brake grease. A little is needed for the front pads and slide pins. The rear shoes also need a little anti-seize lube on the backing plate contact points. Some people use special grease for the rears, but I have used the disc brake grease front and rear. This can be bought in little packets, too.


OPTIONAL CONSUMABLE
15- rattle can of black spray paint, to hit the backing plates, and other stuff for protection now that you've got 'em nice and clean.



If your master cylinder, hard lines and RABS system are all in good shape, all of the stuff I've listed should bring your brakes up to an "as new" condition.

Again, that's off the top of my head, and I hope that I didn't miss anything.

Thank you! That seems to be about everything I have in my cart with Advance Auto. I replaced the Master Brake Cylinder a few years ago but the dang thing already rusted on the outside like it's been in the truck forever lol.
I seen that there may be some special tools (specially for the back), would you recommend me getting those? or is something like a flat head screwdriver good enough? I honestly don't mind spending the extra money on the tools specially on something that has to be routine.

 

[RobbieD]

A brake "spoon" tool is good; it makes putting the springs on in the rear a lot easier. Most will have a spoon on one end and a cam-like fixture on the other for spring removal.