carberated 5.0 swap

[19Walt93]

I put a 95 F150 351 with a Holley carb and a Pertronics distributor into my 93 Ranger. I used a carb because I have over 40 years experience with them and can get better throttle response than EEC IV or OBD II ever thought of. And that's what I wanted. I stripped 4 cardboard boxes of wining out of the truck and used an EVTM and a note pad to create my own wiring harness because I'd rather spend a few days than the hundreds of dollars a Painless kit costs. I used an Airtex low PSI external fuel pump and turned the intank pump bracket into a fuel pickup and sender.That being said, if you have a complete donor car it makes sense and will save money to use as much of the original stuff as possible. There's almost unlimited Fox Mustang parts availability. I read on here that either Explorer or T Bird front drive systems fit better than the Fox body stuff I used but didn't know that at the time. I ended up hollowing out my core support and locating the radiator inside it, finding Explorer or T bird brackets and pulleys would have been a lot easier.

 

[tdw41483]

Have yet to look, but does the 302 come with multiple spots for oil pressure sensors to be hooked up? Or will I need to make a manifold of some sort? Would like the true oil pressure sensor for the aftermarket gauges, and then the safety switch (original "dummy light" oil pressure gauge in Ranger) to cut fuel if engine stalls.
Thanks again. Never would have considered the thought of fuel still being pumped if in a accident and upside down or something before reading here.

 

[19Walt93]

There's only one oil pressure port, wouldn't it be easier to just wire the inertia switch back into the circuit?

 

[tdw41483]

Ya, plan on keeping the fuel pump circuit operating as designed with both the inertia switch and positive oil pressure.
In my other hot rod (that the engine was plucked out of) I had wired up the aftermarket fuel pump to turn on with the key on not knowing any better. Now realize how dumb that was.

 

[19Walt93]

My 4.5 psi fuel pump runs with the key on. When Ford introduced inertia switches back in the CFI days we'd have LTD wagons towed in every weekend during the summer. The inertia switch was behind the rear quarter panel trim. After a bad round of golf the clubs would get tossed into the back of the wagon and the gate slammed shut. Slamming the gate tripped the inertia switch. GM's and Jap cars didn't use inertia switches, the fuel pump would continue pumping after a wreck until the key was turned off or the fire destroyed the wiring.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

My 4.5 psi fuel pump runs with the key on. When Ford introduced inertia switches back in the CFI days we'd have LTD wagons towed in every weekend during the summer. The inertia switch was behind the rear quarter panel trim. After a bad round of golf the clubs would get tossed into the back of the wagon and the gate slammed shut. Slamming the gate tripped the inertia switch. GM's and Jap cars didn't use inertia switches, the fuel pump would continue pumping after a wreck until the key was turned off or the fire destroyed the wiring.

Mine has a factory inertia switch wired into it, it hasn't gone bad or tripped in the 9 years I have been using it. I can also turn off the pump independant of the keyswitch (handy for draining the carb if I have to remove it)

Even though my truck was originally carbed I made my own standalone harness for everything under the hood. Choke, fuel pump, ignition (duraspark), starter, efan... is all on my own electrical system.