2.3L ('83-'97) Can't get engine moving free to change motor mounts (2.3l)

[evp]

I'm trying to swap in new motor mounts for my 93 Ranger 2.3l Automatic.
I've gotten to the point where the entire exhaust system on the front half of the truck has been disconnected from anything rigid, both motor mount bolts are off, and the entire transmission cross member is off (including the transmission mount with it), so I have the transmission tail resting on a jack stand. The exhaust tube has been disconnected from the transmission housing.
I've tried jacking from the oil pan on front (by crank pulley) and back (by drain plug) with 2x4s to spread the weight, but no matter where I jack the block up the whole front end lifts with it! I've jacked a few solid spots on the passenger side, nothing. The one part I could get the engine to come up a bit was on a ~one square inch section of cast iron block, in a really sketchy configuration with a 2x3 at a funky angle jacked up, and that only lifted the driver side of the block.

P.S. The engine mount threads are not catching to my knowledge, they are pristine with no signs of the engine support brackets (bolted to the block) getting caught on them, and the threads have plenty of room in the bracket holes.
I can provide pictures of anything here

If you know something I'm missing please let me know, thanks.

 

[SenorNoob]

Pictures please.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yeah, assuming you have the nuts off the top of the motor mounts the engine should lift up just fine, there's just the two studs holding the engine down and two more on the bottom sides of the mounts but you have to take the frame side brackets off to get to those.

 

[Curious Hound]

How high have you trued to lift it? You do realize that as you lift the engine, you are taking weight off the suspension and the vehicle will rise.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yeah, there's just enough room to get the stud clear of the engine side bracket, I don't remember if you have to do one at a time to get the most room but probably.

I've kinda wanted one of those engine lifting bar things that straddles the fender lips then uses a J bolt or whatever to lift on the engine to do motor mounts... I know I've made janky versions with lumber before...

 

[evp]

Yeah, there's just enough room to get the stud clear of the engine side bracket, I don't remember if you have to do one at a time to get the most room but probably.

I've kinda wanted one of those engine lifting bar things that straddles the fender lips then uses a J bolt or whatever to lift on the engine to do motor mounts... I know I've made janky versions with lumber before...

Yeah I was considering picking one of those up and I think it's worth it now. The nice guy above you in the thread reminded me that the suspension will rise to match the engine lift height before the engine leaves the frame, and an engine support bar would disregard that as it would be lifting off the frame to start. Thanks

 

[evp]

How high have you trued to lift it? You do realize that as you lift the engine, you are taking weight off the suspension and the vehicle will rise.

Don't know why I didn't think of that. I'm gonna get an engine support bar so I can lift from the fenders and won't have that problem at all, the pan lift was very questionable, thanks!

 

[Curious Hound]

Don't know why I didn't think of that. I'm gonna get an engine support bar so I can lift from the fenders and won't have that problem at all, the pan lift was very questionable, thanks!

I usually put a 2x4 between my jack and the pan to spread the force across the whole pan side to side.

Another idea is to chain the coil springs before lifting so they can't expand. There are several good ways to skin this cat. Do what works best for you. But keep it safe.