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cant break them loose


Also can't start the motor. It's takin apart ready to be pulled all except the mounts.
 
Why not just pull the motor/trans as a whole and split it outside the truck? These trannies only weigh like 50lbs dry.
 
+1 on pulling engine/trans as unit and then dealing with it. Those little batards (see my high school french did some good after all) at the top were not meant to be accessed by mortal man, at least not with the exhaust in place and after 25 years of setting into place. Pulling as a unit has its challenges (getting the exhaust out of the way, for one), but can be done (I had to block a little under the front wheels to get enough angle on the assemby/clearance under the tailshaft, and to get my lift to slip in!).

Good luck!

Note: to clarify, this was my 88 2WD with the 2.9/auto
 
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yes, pull them both...worked for me...

As for 12 point sockets...sorry, but a junkyard man told me to try it a long time ago...he spent his whole day pulling things apart so I took his word for it...and it worked...for me...I still have a few of them but rarely use them...but now that I think about it, it was actually head bolts that he was telling me to use them on...the older style head bolts needed a 12 point socket...but I was using a 6 point and it was slipping...so maybe transmission bolts will be better with a 6 point...

But I'd definitely try hammering on a stripped bolt remover...used those a few times with success...
 
If the head of the bolt is severely mangled try going down one size socket and hammering that on. Worked for me several times. Might also try a hand impact driver. Pretty awesome little tool. They're the only way to take a motorcycle engine apart.

Edit: Just in case somebody doesn't realize what I'm talking about: Hand Impact Driver

31HJYD6TR9L.jpg
 
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i was wanting to pull them together as one at first. but then realized the front clip is welded on and not bolted. also its not one of the top bolts if your looking at the tranny from the back its on the right side. i beleive its the lowest one. and i dont see how a hand impact would work. doesnt look like theres any leverage
 
What does it matter if it's a welded core support...? Pull the radiator and lift it. If you want even more room pull the harmonic balancer off.

Note, all RBVs have pretty much the same size engine compartment, the pictured 98 even has a taller core support than yours.
ra4use6u.jpg


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Wow I feel stupid. Thank you! I might have to pull the harmonis balancer since it's a 4x4 though. But thank you!
 
I just realized what you were having trouble with. I'm fairly sure I was able to get a wrench (yes wrench) on all of my transmission bolts. Even after the 4.0 went in.....

But, if you plan to pull the engine anyway, that seems to be the way to go. At least if you have the right tools.
 
For my $0.02, I'd get 3 cans of Freeze-Loc; basically, it's liquid nitrogen in a can. Spray it on each bolt that won't come loose for about 30-45 sec., wait 2-5 minutes, then try to take them off. What the Freeze-Loc does is literally break the bonds of rust at the molecular level. When you put them back together, I'd recommend getting a can of anti-seize compound, so that you won't have this problem in the future.
 
Ive always removed bolts with box wrench, but finally this last time bought a 36" extension and wobbles, what a difference! I do suggest though, if you using anything longer than 12" using impact extentions, as someone already mentioned the loss of torque. but no transmission bolt should be that tight, most of them strip out before they become immovable.
 
The top two bolts??
Here's what I do
With the engine installed and at normal sitting position, ex if the tail of your trans is hanging lower then the mount jack it up...
You can take off the upper intake manifold to make it super easy
Or you can get to them without if determined.

Take a 6 point 13mm closed end open end wrench
Slip the box end over one of the bolts
Use a larger wrench I use 17-18mm slip the closed end over the open end of the 13 mm for extra leverAge

It should crack easier then the ratchet if you have sensitive knuckles I'd wear gloves, cuz if you slip the firewall is gonna hurt to punch, self taught lol
Good luck, the rest I use the two wobble extentions and a piece of pipe and ratchet


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