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Can I Do This?


hmm:icon_confused:
maybe i have 03 motors and 01 switches then... well i hope it works for u man!
:icon_thumby:
 
That is porbably what happened. The motors are the same for 98-02 I think he said. Then the mounting changed for 03+. I'm goingu to go pull the left door today after work then take it home and swap out the guts and panel then try to figure out the wiring fiasco. If its not to much trouble and you have some spare time, could I get you to take a pic of how your switche and relay are wired up and which are constant hot, ground, etc? If not I understand. But once I get the locks figured out I'll forward you that info. Thanks
 
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That is porbably what happened. The motors are the same for 98-02 I think he said. Then the mounting changed for 03+. I'm goingu to go pull the left door today after work then take it home and swap out the guts and panel then try to figure out the wiring fiasco. If its not to much trouble and you have some spare time, could I get you to take a pic of how your switche and relay are wired up and which are constant hot, ground, etc? If not I understand. But once I get the locks figured out I'll forward you that info. Thanks

ill see what i can do,im gonna take a look at it and tell u what wires to connect to what on the relay. the hardest part is the switches, im gonna take the panel apart and check it out.
ill hit u with a pm when i get it:icon_thumby:
 
I pulled the entire under dash wiring harness yesterday out of the '99. It is an automatic 2WD and mine is a standard 4x4. Do I just have to seperate the wires for the power window/locks/mirrors from that harness and intergrate it into my harness? Cause I dont think i can just use the '99 harnes.

This is the wires you have to keep for power windows:

passenger side

yellow/red and red/yellow, from the motor to pass switch.
white/yellow and tan/light blue fron pass switch going to driver switch
light blue/black, to 12 volts, hot in run( use with 20 amps fuse)


Driver side
tan/light blue and white/black, from the motor to driver switch
white/yellow and tan/light blue coming from pass switch
light blue/black, to 12 volts, hot in run( use with 20 amps fuse)
black to a good ground.


The power mirrors are easier.

orange/light green +12 v, hot in all times, use with an 5 amps fuse.
black, to a good ground.

yellow/black dark brown and red, from driver mirror to switch,

yellow black, violet and dark green from pass mirror to switch,


The door lock are a little harder, you have to add 2 relays, Reverse Polarity

http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w

You don't need relays for the power windows and mirrors. Also you don't need the GEM and security modules so remove any extra wires.

Hope this help.
 
most of the stuff should be interchangable. You should be able to use all the wires if you wanted too out of the 99 and just get a 01 GEM it sounds like. I am in the process of replacing my heater core and I am just gonna replace the entire dash wiring harness and the GEM so that way it is all stock and I can also put in the power mirrors/locks/key fob along with the windows. I'm gonna check to see if any of the other wiring harnesses are different on the engine or chasis and if I have to I'll do them later.
 
most of the stuff should be interchangable. You should be able to use all the wires if you wanted too out of the 99 and just get a 01 GEM it sounds like. I am in the process of replacing my heater core and I am just gonna replace the entire dash wiring harness and the GEM so that way it is all stock and I can also put in the power mirrors/locks/key fob along with the windows. I'm gonna check to see if any of the other wiring harnesses are different on the engine or chasis and if I have to I'll do them later.

The "security module" is also needed, it's in front of the pass airbag.
 
Use a relay on all main power wires for the windows, let the switches control the relay and not the direct power.
If you are drawing 10+ amps and more when the window is closed or open and the power is still applied you will need it.
Use a 30 amp relay for up to a 20-30 amp circuit.
40 amp relay for circuits up to 30-40 amps.
Relays help take the higher amperage loads off of the switches/wiring and should be put in between the power and the motors.
There may be other low amperage loads in the window circuit (I do not know) and these load may not need a relay but the window motors do.

One more thing, make sure to size the battery power wire, (all wires for that matter) the fuse and the relay according to the amperage (current) load of the application.
It is better to put in a larger than normal wire (12 ga instead of a 14 ga wire) than go the other way.
 
Use a relay on all main power wires for the windows, let the switches control the relay and not the direct power.
If you are drawing 10+ amps and more when the window is closed or open and the power is still applied you will need it.
Use a 30 amp relay for up to a 20-30 amp circuit.
40 amp relay for circuits up to 30-40 amps.
Relays help take the higher amperage loads off of the switches/wiring and should be put in between the power and the motors.
There may be other low amperage loads in the window circuit (I do not know) and these load may not need a relay but the window motors do.

One more thing, make sure to size the battery power wire, (all wires for that matter) the fuse and the relay according to the amperage (current) load of the application.
It is better to put in a larger than normal wire (12 ga instead of a 14 ga wire) than go the other way.
 

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