c4 trans simple questions

[Totalled]

A C5 converter won't work with an early C4 trans... the input shaft is smaller.

 

[88mudder]

just noticed what i think is the vac modulater on my trans. It is a gold color and alitle smaller than an egg and located on the back of the trans. It has a metal line coming off it bent up towards the motor. This must be a vac hose..it never was hooked up to anything. Could this be why the truck would stall when i put in into gear? Is it correct to hook the line up to my intake manifold on the open vac port?

 

[red85]

Yes, that's the vacuum modulator. Just hook it to a vacuum source and the tranny will shift more predictably instead of going 1-2-3 in about 2 seconds. As for the the motor dying when you drop it into gear check the vac advance on your distributor and take a look at where you curb idle is set on your carb.

 

[88mudder]

Yes, that's the vacuum modulator. Just hook it to a vacuum source and the tranny will shift more predictably instead of going 1-2-3 in about 2 seconds. As for the the motor dying when you drop it into gear check the vac advance on your distributor and take a look at where you curb idle is set on your carb.

thx for the info. Should have the truck running this weekend and i will give updates on any problems. Pics of course.

 

[JCWGrover]

It would appear that you have a 5 bolt C4 made in 64, and if the engine is truly a 289, it is somewhat rare also, as the majority of the 64 5 bolt blocks were 260's. Engine and tranny are worth much more to a Vintage Mustang restorer than to put in an off-roader, as they were only used in the 64 1/2 mustang. Also, a C4 of that vintage is a dual-range transmission, 1 position for normal driving, and 1 position for ice and snow. Ford went to the P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter pattern in 1967, and ditched the dual-range. You could probably make a bit of money by re-selling it on a vintage mustang site, or auction site

 

[88mudder]

need some help on choosing a radiator. I need a small radiator that has the upper intake hose opening on the left side and the lower on the right. Currently my explorer 4 core is good but its way too tall. My griffen rad is a nice size but has the hose openings on opposite sides than what i need. Anybody reccommend anything?

 

[red85]

A first gen Explorer (91-94) is usually the best candidate. Are you sure about the position of those outlets? It sounds backwards to me.

Phil

 

[88mudder]

mustang radiator fits in there good.

everything is hooked up now. Not sure exactly if i hooked up the spark plug wires right. My dist cap has a number 1 on it, does that mean that wire goes to number 1 cylinder with the rotor pointing to it and so on..?

 

[red85]

Generally, the 1 is for #1 cylinder. Did you set up your mechanical timing and set #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke before you dropped in the distributor? If you didn't, take the distributor out, mark the base of the dist with a marker and poit the rotor at it. Once you've done that, it gets easier to set it up. I've seen guys just move the wires one position fwd or back when they've forgotten to do the procedure I mentioned above, but I'm a stickler for using factory marks as described in good repair manuals. Call me fussy, but I like it when things line up and work the way they're supposed to.

 

[88mudder]

i did set the TDC on cylinder 1 upon compression stroke. What do u mean mechanical timing?

 

[88mudder]

nvm that for now i will figure the timing out.

need some headers. Have a 3" body lift installed. What headers clear the steering shaft and frame without modification? Mustang shortys require too much modifications, already tried.

 

[red85]

i did set the TDC on cylinder 1 upon compression stroke. What do u mean mechanical timing?

Mechanical timing is what controls the valve opening in relation to where the piston is in the bore. If you changed the cam, you would have had to come in contact with this. If you haven't played with the cam, then don't worry about that. Have you test fired your motor yet?

Phil

 

[projectnitemare]

You can find rubber flex hoses at most autoparts stores. I used stainless flex hoses, be careful with those. they like to blow off in your face as you check your timing or make a carb adjustment. I spent a night in the hospital over those things.

Matt

 

[88mudder]

Mechanical timing is what controls the valve opening in relation to where the piston is in the bore. If you changed the cam, you would have had to come in contact with this. If you haven't played with the cam, then don't worry about that. Have you test fired your motor yet?

Phil

cam was already in the motor when i bought it. Tried test firing the motor but it didnt even pop or anything. I gotta play with the timing.

 

[88mudder]

You can find rubber flex hoses at most autoparts stores. I used stainless flex hoses, be careful with those. they like to blow off in your face as you check your timing or make a carb adjustment. I spent a night in the hospital over those things.

Matt

got the flex hoses a few days ago and they worked out fine.