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BW1350/NP205 "poor mans doubler"...?


Turboford

Active Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
Messages
31
City
Not quite West Virginia
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
I'm heavily considering a SAS and 38's on my ranger, and according to research, a 1350/54 double *seems* complicated and weak. Being that I have a divorced NP205 laying in the barn (and no 1st gen exploder parts), what would it take to fit this combo under my truck? I'm hoping to run around 8" of lift. Also, the trul is a reg cab long bed, if it makes any difference.

Guess that's all, for now. Thanks!
 
A chain a paper clips is as strong as 2 lengths of 1/4" chain linked together by a paper clip, and weighs a heck of a lot more. You have a lot more research to do.
 
A chain a paper clips is as strong as 2 lengths of 1/4" chain linked together by a paper clip, and weighs a heck of a lot more. You have a lot more research to do.


this does not apply to this situation.

I'm heavily considering a SAS and 38's on my ranger, and according to research, a 1350/54 double *seems* complicated and weak. Being that I have a divorced NP205 laying in the barn (and no 1st gen exploder parts), what would it take to fit this combo under my truck? I'm hoping to run around 8" of lift. Also, the trul is a reg cab long bed, if it makes any difference.

Guess that's all, for now. Thanks!



turbo 4 whizzer reg cab...with a c4/1350/205 with 1/2 ton solids and 38's is a killer setup. (its killer with any tranny really....)

considering a sas.....and asking how to put a divorced t case in dont belong in the same question though to me.....if you think you can pull off a sas....you better know you can install a divorced 205.


:dunno:...thats the way i see it anyway..
 
I guess it does sound funny now that I re-read my question. I guess I'm asking for anyone's personal experience and what considerations there may be. Any tricks of the trade or tips from someone who has seen it done, or even a link to some useful info? I'm still googling, bit not much luck...

The hardest part of the tc "swap/addition" I think, would be shift linkage.

Also, my setup will have the m5od :D
 
Ok, did a bunch of searching, and found some info. So now I'm wondering...is there any way around sawing a 1350 in half to get a divorced NP205 under my truck? I'm also using either a 16 gal fuel cell or simply relocating my tank to the bed. As I mentioned before, I'll be running around 8" of lift, so could I (or should I even consider) clocking the divorced case to clear the 1350??

Only reason I ask is bc I have almost no access to aluminum welding equipment...
 
The one real big problem will be legnth and being able to get a super short driveshaft for the 205. The shortest shaft I've seen was about the legnth of a soda can and I recall the guy had a few bucks in it. Shifting them has been done with push-pull cables for a while now, no issue there. If you are leaving the 1350 intact I will bet you need to index the 205 to get the front driveshaft in there. What I get from this is you are using the stock t-case as a range box and the 205 as you t-case....easy enough. The question will be will you have to cut up the 1350 to make driveshaft room? Don't have an answer fror that because it really isn't a common set up, but you should have enough room as for as the rest of the job. It would come down to is it worth figuring a way to cut the 1350 into a range box if needed. If it would come to that I would say look into a different combo or use the 1350/1354 doubler, you would have as much effort and possibly money as other options.

Matt

Matt
 
Yea, that's pretty much in all in a nut shell. I've been looking around and just saw a cheap/easy setup on pirate for the "intermediate shaft". I have old high boy drivelines laying around along with some other stuff, I'm sure I can figure something out. Hell, I might just have to cut the 1350. But yes, in an "unprecedented" move, I'm lookin for cheap an easy. But I def don't want to cobble it together, either.

Any idea what the drive shaft lengths are on a standard cab/long bed ranger, right off hand? (I type this at work lol) I feel like I have a fair bit of room to play with, considering what I'm trying to do. I might try to drop the NP205 down a little bit to aid in clearing the 1350, on top of indexing...just an idea...
 
if you need a source for a super short drive shaft, try a boat shop as inboard jet boats use a super short drive shaft
 
That's actually a good idea, I'll have to remember that!
...I need to check our your rig, as well. I remember seeing your sig in a couple posts before and thought it was cool you had a turbo 2.3L 4x4. Actually part of what "inspired" me to start researching to undertake this endeavor.

I also might have a spare frame being lent to me to mock up this whole fiasco :D
 
yeah, I like my truck a lot, but wish I did the engine swap a bit better, it's issues are what led to my roll... that and poor judgement on running around a sand bowl... I missed out on all summers worth of wheeling because the roof was off being straightened, now it's just left with a hot restart issue
 
Ok its not a bad idea and driveshafts are going to be the biggest pain but heres something you need to know. DONT TRY TO JUST USE 1 U JOINT to mate te 1354 to the 205 I knew a guy that tried it and catastrophic failure doesnt begin to explain what happened. Also shifters are going to be a pain to operate the 205 but itll be worth it. The 205 should have different yoke sizes than the 1354 so your prolly jsut better off making new driveshafts from scratch.
 
LoL I read a thread on pirate that turned into a huge back and forth over using one ujoint. I will either: a) make a shaft from a 90 ranger rear shaft & the original highboy intermediate shaft, b) use the "collar" from a double cardon shaft [saw that on pirate, but idk bout the lack of a slip joint in there] to make a REALLY short shaft, or c) maybe [idk if it'd work, but same principle as idea "b)"] bolt two ujoint-to-flange adapters together...but I'm really really leaning towards just making a short shaft out of existing driveshafts.

Scott, that sucks! Sorry to hear it. Must've been pretty mean to be able to roll the truck tho, eh :D
 
I'd also like to try for equal length front and rear driveshafts, so replacing them would be simpler, either that or using a length I can scavenge from another truck.
 
Yeah to use one joint you cant have ANY movement in any of the drivetrain.My buddies truck drove off the trailer fine and putted around jsut fine but when he lined up for the mud hole and hit the gas the engine rocked and tore the transmission off I mean the bellhousing snapped off. It didnt help he had a built 347 in the truck and 44" rubber but the point stands.
 

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