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Bronco II quick mods


How do yoy do the shoulder strap in the back. I need this for tha little monsters
 
sway bar disconnect for the front are cheap and simple. I made mine under 5bucks

info? i'm gonna have to do this when i do my axle swap w/ xj coils. i'm gonna NEED the sway bar on the road lol
 
I will post pics later tonight in my build. Its jsut a grade 8 bolt, 2 wahers and a trailer pin. Simple and i made it in under an hour taking my sweet time.
 
I will post pics later tonight in my build. Its jsut a grade 8 bolt, 2 wahers and a trailer pin. Simple and i made it in under an hour taking my sweet time.

ahh ok, i get it. i'm thinking of changing my set up..
really tho on most ttb's you don't even need the sway bar. i didn't run mine for a long time. even on a DD
 
yeah im just trying to be different. I have never seen another b2 around that is even running 31's. I saw 1 with a 3inBL but with stock tires which was stupid looking.
 
Yep. you need to make custom brackets. It's pretty easy though. I don't have a pic of the brackets I made, but here's a pic of the radiator in my 84.
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Explorer springs will give a stock b2 a slight lift 1"-2" depending on how worn out the springs are.

I have a 90 b2 , what year explorer? For springs
 
This is what I did for myself. You guys have to decide if it meets your standards for safety. I make no claims to that effect. I think it is safe or I would not put my kids and grand kids in them.
The belts I have came out of two Aerostar Vans. They have to be at least 114" long. You need the passengers side from the middle seat.The drivers side is too short.
Be sure to get the cover that goes over the retractor. While there get five or six extra bolts as you will use them. Go somewhere that sells hardware and get some metric nuts to fit the bolts. I also found a Chevy conversion van and picked up all the backing plates that were under the floor. The seatbelt hardware was attached to them, and I got 4 L brackets that the belts were bolted to.
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Remove the window trim and you should find a square hole in the window frame
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I drilled a 1/2" hole behind the square hole to match the hole forward of it. This puts the belt where it seems to want to stay on the shoulder.
Trim one of the smaller backing plate to fit into the window frame through the square hole
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Slide it in . Make sure the bolt holding the belt goes through the backing plate. Install the nut and washer. I had to bend the wrench to make it fit.
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Drill a hole directly below in the floor so the belt hangs strait down. Bolt one of the "L" brackets to the floor. Under the body put one of the large backing plate under the bolt head. Can't remember why the bolt had to go in from the bottom.
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Then bolt the belt retractor to the "L" bracket.
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Remove the belt buckle from the floor at the end of the seat and install an "L" bracket to the floor in its place. Bolt the end of the seat belt to the bracket. It should be a buckle that attaches to the belt if you got them out of a Ford.
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Remove the belt retractor from the floor in the middle of the seat and install the new belt buckle.
I have not had time to install the cover over the retractor yet. It will take a little triming but should fit.
As I said I did this for myself and make no claims on the safety in a crash or roll over. I think it is safe or I would not of done it as my grand kids use them. That is something you will have to decide for yourself.
Some random picks
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i cant say for sure how safe that is but i will say that i would use it. cant be any less safe than the factory lap belts, especially with the extra plates for bracing
 
change from auto to manual locking hubs if you have auto hubs. makes it cheaper in the long run even tho they cost any were from 50 to 200 bucks but would save on having to replace the auto hubs if you go of roading alot.
 
I have a 90 b2 , what year explorer? For springs

91-94 explorer for the springs. for the radiator get one from a 4.0L with an auto trans and A/C. :icon_thumby:
 

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