Bought 1997 ranger 4.0 4wd for $2500 a couple of months ago

[bgrieves1]

I use to do 3 complete reseals a day to these back in the day.....
Theyre a leaking mess until theyre resealed.
Ide never pull the engine,
go after the top resealing valve cover & lower intake manifold.
If it was never touched it had a paper lower intake gasket, theres a revised metal one...
Dont pull the trans to do just the rear main without resealing the engine oil pan.
thats another huge source of a leak, more so than the rear main.
doing the rear main & not the oil pan is suicide....
Theres good techs & bad techs, its possible the back of your lower intake is leaking down the back of the motor making it look like rear main / oil pan area.

Theres no way your mechanic can inspect that vehicle assembled & say its only the rear main,
The engine oil pan is leaking 100% also without a doubt!!!!

been a ford engine tech for 32 years, ive done 1000's of these back in the day. Those were gravy jobs for us when you can actually work on cars.....

 

[bgrieves1]

Well hello again. Just talked to my mechanic. He said he doesn't think the rear main seal was making the big spot because that happened when the engine was off. And the engine was off and it was on an incline when it had a big leak. He said he thinks it might be the back of the oil pan. He said to replace oil pan gasket and rear main seal would be $1000 labor.
He said the wire connecting the battery to the starter was almost cut in half. And a left control arm needs replacement. So he is going to do that.
So he says if it was his he would just add oil. Cause even if he replaces the rear main seal it may leak again if main bearings are not totally lined up. So that's it for now.
Well hello again. Just talked to my mechanic. He said he doesn't think the rear main seal was making the big spot because that happened when the engine was off. And the engine was off and it was on an incline when it had a big leak. He said he thinks it might be the back of the oil pan. He said to replace oil pan gasket and rear main seal would be $1000 labor.
He said the wire connecting the battery to the starter was almost cut in half. And a left control arm needs replacement. So he is going to do that.
So he says if it was his he would just add oil. Cause even if he replaces the rear main seal it may leak again if main bearings are not totally lined up. So that's it for now.

 

[bgrieves1]

I'm feeling upset. This $2500 dollar ranger I bought at the advice of my mechanic has cost about 7 k in repairs in just a few weeks. So my question now is....can I restore this vehicle? So this won't be such a big mistake? The engine has 280k on it. Auto transmission. 4.0 super cab 4 wd. So at some point I can have a rebuilt motor and transmission put in? But then also it will need a wiring harness? They don't even make those anymore? Can I restore this truck?

 

[Curious Hound]

In short, yes. The truck can be repaired to run like new. The long answer is more complicated. I don't think we have an accurate picture of the exact condition of the truck. It would be less expensive if you could do the work yourself. But it appears that you have a lot of learning to do along the way. That is going to take some diligence and patience on your part. It also depends on how perfect you want the truck to become. Some of us learn to live with minor imperfections and inconveniences.

Many of the trucks you read about in these forums are projects, even some of the ones that people don't call projects. We find an issue. Troubleshoot it and repair it. If we don't know how to repair it, we ask questions, read books, watch videos and learn. Some of the money we would have paid to a mechanic for his/her expertise and time is instead used to buy new tools. It's a process and sometimes it takes time and we have to be patient.

The wiring can be repaired and replaced. Pull a harness from the junk yard or order new connectors and wire and make a new harness from scratch. Some parts on the older trucks are not available new. We go to junkyards or buy parts vehicles or get parts and pieces from FB Marketplace, Craigslist or swap meets. Sometimes you have to learn to adapt other similar parts or make minor modifications.

So, the question is; "How dedicated do you want to be toward making this truck reliable and making it "yours"?" Do you want to learn it? Do you want to acquire the skills and tools to work on it yourself? Or are you rich enough to keep paying someone else to do things for you? If you're seriously hesitant about saying yes to any of these questions, sell the truck and get something newer that is still under warranty.

I drive a 93 Ranger, a 2002 F250 and a 2022 Kawasaki motorcycle. I do all my own work on these vehicles. If I didn't, I couldn't afford to have them.

 

[bgrieves1]

Thank you Hound. Yes, we are headed into semi-retirement this July. One reason I have let my mechanic do so much is we are both working overtime right now. Our retirement home is over 2 hours away in the forest. Our home is a hot mess right now, so housing will need to be repaired and rebuilt this summer. We have a 12x18 cabin, a 10x10 well house, an RV and a hoop house. We have a lifetime shed coming to erect as an extra space for a kitchen close to the cabin. And we are getting into gardening. So at 57 and 62, time and energy are the things we lack right now.
"order new connectors and wire and make a new harness from scratch."
This was very encouraging and educational. I have done some diy electrical on housing and plan to do more, so I can slowly do this.
One of my goals for this year is to pull the LED headlights off the 1995 and the manual doors. And put those on the 1997. I will be going from automatic to manual.
We did manage to replace the blower motor and resistor in our apartment parking lot last week. That was successful and fun. I'm a big tomboy so I think this stuff is fun. Until it makes you cry, Lol.
So, the answer is yes to your questions. I did very deliberately buy an older Ford ranger. And I do like this truck.
My mechanic really sold it to me. In hindsight I think I might have done better just myself and Facebook marketplace. Because even the air filter was dirty. It has gotten a lot of new suspension, 4wd sensor, battery, alternator.
My mechanic seems like such a nice guy. I really trusted him. The body is a hot mess. The parts truck should help.
I got discouraged by this oil leak and there is not much I can do about it. Maybe if we park on level ground it will not leak much. And then I got discouraged by learning I cannot buy a new wire harness. But you say I can make one new. That is very interesting.

Anyway, you have been a great encouragement. Maybe this truck will be of use for a while before a refurbished engine and transmission is needed. I don't have confidence that we can drop and replace the transmission. I was researching that. We have to learn how to put our ranger up on Jack stands.
Do you think we can drop the transmission and put it back in? Maybe replace the oil pan gasket? That would be a heck of a project for beginner old people. I guess we would need a harbor freight transmission jack.
Will have to research what Jack stands to get .
Anyway, your encouragement is greatly appreciated.

 

[bgrieves1]

Also, Hound, I did buy the factory manual set from eBay for $100. Now I just have to learn to read the wiring diagrams.
The 97 seems to have some rust, but not super bad. There are holes in the cab corners.
So I think I have a fairly beat up truck to start with. My mechanic justified the $2500 by saying it had 4wd and good engine and transmission. But the oil leak makes me wonder how much time I have on those. So I think I got a maybe fair deal for 2025. Maybe not. I guess time will tell.

 

[SenorNoob]

Vehicle prices are all over the place. Even just here in my little area. I see running/driving (but rough) trucks as low as $800 to people wanting (doubt they get it) $8500 with no engine cause the body is shiny. It's silly. Here though I'd say yes probably fair. Not a good deal. Hard to say without some pictures...

 

[bgrieves1]

Yes, my mechanic did tow us back free of charge once (since we bought the truck a few weeks ago, it has returned to his shop 4 times). He just found a near broken wire from the battery to the starter. And his last bill seemed like he gave us a break. But I have a feeling that he is tired of this and favors are over now. So it is what it is. Maybe this ranger will go a while without needing something major. We need to move some stuff between now And July. Then it can sit more. We will see.
Thank you for your response. Happy weekend.

 

[bgrieves1]

Vehicle prices are all over the place. Even just here in my little area. I see running/driving (but rough) trucks as low as $800 to people wanting (doubt they get it) $8500 with no engine cause the body is shiny. It's silly. Here though I'd say yes probably fair. Not a good deal. Hard to say without some pictures...

And in that area everyone has a truck. The truck does ride well with the new suspension parts. And it has fat rims and tires that are cool. The interior ain't half bad. I don't think it has too bad rust but there are small holes in the cab corners. Like 1.5 inch or something. The body has a lot of dents. Looks like maybe 3 smaller wrecks....the frame might be bent a little. I really cAnt I bought this. I was just really wanting a truck and my mechanic said it had a good engine and transmission. But with the oil leak I'm not so convinced of that now. But God is with us. I will pray and just be grateful I have a truck at all. We work a lot but our wages are 18 to 20 an hour so it goes fast.

 

[slater50]

Ive done 1000's of 4.0L oil pan jobs, not something for a senior backyard weekend ambitious warrior.
too much involved & very difficult to do on your back or even on ramps...
Not certain if the 97 has a full suspension crossmember going across the oil pan area. My guess is it does....
If it does, youre suppose to pull the engine..
or pull the trans, transfer case, disconnect the driver side engine mount, pull the fan & shroud, crank the driver side of the engine to the moon to get the oil pan windage tray to clear the oil pump pickup tube...

We use multiple pole jacks to lift the back of the engine high enough, finding a way to lift the engine while on the ground & doing it safely would be very challenging...

HUGE job....

Nobody can pay me enough to be willing to do it on my back....

 

[bgrieves1]

Ive done 1000's of 4.0L oil pan jobs, not something for a senior backyard weekend ambitious warrior.
too much involved & very difficult to do on your back or even on ramps...
Not certain if the 97 has a full suspension crossmember going across the oil pan area. My guess is it does....
If it does, youre suppose to pull the engine..
or pull the trans, transfer case, disconnect the driver side engine mount, pull the fan & shroud, crank the driver side of the engine to the moon to get the oil pan windage tray to clear the oil pump pickup tube...

We use multiple pole jacks to lift the back of the engine high enough, finding a way to lift the engine while on the ground & doing it safely would be very challenging...

HUGE job....

Nobody can pay me enough to be willing to do it on my back....

Thank you Slater. I was thinking that would be way too hard for us. Hopefully if we park it flat it won't leak much. Time will tell. I looked at the factory manuals I got. The electrical was Greek--I have to learn how to read those. But the Body book ....oh that was awesome. Lays it out so plain. I have a parts truck. 1995. I think it is a 3.0. Can I pull the wiring harness and modify it some and use it on the 1997 4.0? I have a pretty nice parts truck

 

[slater50]

No, too difficult to modify to make it work, theyre completely different animals...
The 3.0 has its own issues & nothing is the same, might as well & try to get some cash out of that powerplant, sell it...

 

[bgrieves1]

No, too difficult to modify to make it work, theyre completely different animals...
The 3.0 has its own issues & nothing is the same, might as well & try to get some cash out of that powerplant, sell it...

Well. I got it delivered for $1200. It has body parts that I can use on my 97 4.0. the 97 needs a lot of body work. So mainly for the body. There is not too much I won't be moving onto the 97. To include the whole truck bed and tailgate. Doors. Front bumper. Hood. Headlights. LED headlights

 

[slater50]

Im just saying if you can get some cash for the engine, do it...

 

[bgrieves1]

You mean cash for refurbished engine and transmission. Yes I am definitely thinking about that. 8k to 10k I guess for both of those. I can only hope it happens later than sooner.