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Best year, model for hardcore wheeler build?


I see pretty much anything with the "Jeep" name on it going for way more than it should around here (although not quite as much as those old 1st-gen Broncos however).

A Bronco II on the other hand (or a Ranger)... I think I got maybe a grand total of $7000 into mine, including the truck itself. No "compromises"... This includes ARB lockers, 5.13 gears, dual t-case, OBA, Warn winch, rollcage, 35" BFGs, disc brakes all around, Bilstein shocks, A/C works f'in' killer, over 3 feet of total suspension flex, and on and on... it's got plenty of good stuff. You'll easily pay more than that just for a Jeep Wrangler by itself in decent condition, then you still got to pay for all the stuff to make it worthy of a decent trail. :rolleyes: Then there's the fact it's a jeep. You'll pretty much disappear unnoticed into the sea of jeeps that already exists on just about any trail.:icon_twisted:

'95-'97 is probably the best year range for RBVs if you absolutely must have an auto trans, but geared deep enough, a manual is actually very pleasant to drive on rocks (more so when you're on the downside of the rock).
My BII is geared 117:1 and just by working the clutch with one foot, and brake with the other, it'll crawl up & over pretty much anything right at an idle (no need to touch the throttle). And that's with the 2.9L. The 4.0L will of course have even more ability to do this.
Mudding is actually where an auto would do better, as you don't lose all your momentum when it shifts gears like you do when shifting a manual.
There is a compromise. There always is. Comfort, looks, expense, always something,
 
'95-'97 is probably the best year range for RBVs if you absolutely must have an auto trans, but geared deep enough, a manual is actually very pleasant to drive on rocks (more so when you're on the downside of the rock).
My BII is geared 117:1 and just by working the clutch with one foot, and brake with the other, it'll crawl up & over pretty much anything right at an idle (no need to touch the throttle). And that's with the 2.9L. The 4.0L will of course have even more ability to do this.
Mudding is actually where an auto would do better, as you don't lose all your momentum when it shifts gears like you do when shifting a manual.[/QUOTE]

Hey, I really appreciate the info.
I wouldn't say no to a manual if it was a good price :icon_thumby:
actually I prefer a manual, but I can see where it would be hell to do a long-winded steap hill climb. and then theres the not always making it to the top factor.
why the 95-97 autos? what was difference then that makes them better to wheel?
I would love to have a floor shift auto like what was in my 88, handy as hell.

Frank
 
'95-'97 is probably the best year range for RBVs if you absolutely must have an auto trans, but geared deep enough, a manual is actually very pleasant to drive on rocks (more so when you're on the downside of the rock).
My BII is geared 117:1 and just by working the clutch with one foot, and brake with the other, it'll crawl up & over pretty much anything right at an idle (no need to touch the throttle). And that's with the 2.9L. The 4.0L will of course have even more ability to do this.
Mudding is actually where an auto would do better, as you don't lose all your momentum when it shifts gears like you do when shifting a manual.

Hey, I really appreciate the info.
I wouldn't say no to a manual if it was a good price :icon_thumby:
actually I prefer a manual, but I can see where it would be hell to do a long-winded steap hill climb. and then theres the not always making it to the top factor.
why the 95-97 autos? what was difference then that makes them better to wheel?
I would love to have a floor shift auto like what was in my 88, handy as hell.

Frank[/QUOTE]

If you know how to drive a manual I'd rather have one off road than an auto...
 
the A4LD used through '94 isn't reliable for the long term, the 5R55E is better...

but the M5OD can take some punishment and is only a coupe hundred bucks to rebuild... mine has 200K on it now and is now taking the punishment of a turbo 2.3 (well, it well be taking punishment when I get it running good again)
 
It doesn't really matter what year you start with because if you're really going to be "hardcore", you're going to swap everything out for something better. I'd suggest a 97 if you were wanting the best TTB package. If not, I'd suggest finding an early 90's 2-door explorer. It'll have a 4.0L, and that's all you care about. Everything else in the driveline can be swapped out for better/stronger parts.
 
It doesn't really matter what year you start with because if you're really going to be "hardcore", you're going to swap everything out for something better. I'd suggest a 97 if you were wanting the best TTB package. If not, I'd suggest finding an early 90's 2-door explorer. It'll have a 4.0L, and that's all you care about. Everything else in the driveline can be swapped out for better/stronger parts.

im with johnny, really in the end ull have a bastard rig anyways so why does it matter what parts it comes with that ull replace anyways LOL
 
I would get an 83-88 ranger and a wrecked or rolled sploder or something for swiping the goodies.

I don't know but i just love the look of the first gens, and they seem to be pretty stought too!:icon_thumby:
 
73-79 F series 4x4.

Stout axles, stout frames, stout engines, stout t cases, stout trannies...you get the idea.

....and are still reasonable price, and simple to work on and lift.

later,
Dustin
 
78-79 Bronco
Got short wheelbase.
Really cheap to lift
As said above good axles t cases trannies and engines. really cheap parts
plus they look sweet.
 
How about 4 linked rocks! j/k, stick with 1 tons Id go with a 14b in the rear where the 10.25s and 60s fail they keep on truckin.go ranger keep the body style cheap there all just as customizable id go older to spend less there and more under the hood and in running gear. but really why not rockwells even the 4.0 will do good with the 6.72 gears
 

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