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Best Way to clean Carbon Build-up


Unless it's aluminum, find a local machine shop and have them hat tank it. Zero elbow grease on your part and probably won't cost you but a couple bucks.
 
I dont have a drill press. I center punch the bolt and start drilling with a sharp 1/8 bit. I work up in size by 8ths. Toward the end , I start working on it with a punch . I drill until I have only the threads left and then I use something to pull the bolt threads out of the tapped threads. It does take a while, but I'm patient.:D
 
Unless it's aluminum, find a local machine shop and have them hat tank it.

it's aluminum - some can clean them up, napa machine shop here was able to clean my lower intake for a 2.9L for not too much. it looked almost brand new when I got it back.
 
On an intake 'carbon will be pretty soft (and probably 'wet')
Cheap carb cleaner will remove some, I've had pretty good luck with oven cleaner.
Most are caustic so don't let it sit too long (or fine one for deep fat fryers)
Paint stripper also works on intakes
 
On the valve cover bolt. Is there enough you can heat it up and get on it with the vice grips?

I never have had much luck with bolt extractors either. I generally end up getting whatever it is mounted up under the drill press and bore out the bolt and re-thread. So far that has literally solved my broken bolt issues.

Notice I said drill press and not hand held drill.... Helps to have the motor out and on a stand if you wish to do this. Your manifold however should be pretty easy to get under the drill press. Make sure you are at a true straight on bore (and firmly clamped down) when you do it though and GO SLOW... Getting in a hurry is asking for trouble.

I don't think I'll be worrying about it, that bolt broke off about 12 years ago, it has never caused a problem other than the slight exhaust leak its been fine for 12 years why possibly screw it up now LOL. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
 
Your profile says 1983, so I'm going to assume it is the two ports that allows hot exhaust to heat the manifold under the carb. It's purpose is to heat the manifold under the carb quicker than the liquid in the cooling system can warm up and heat the manifold. It is more of a smog thing than a functional thing. You can soften the carbon with anything that soften carbon and get a long pipe cleaner type brush to loosen the carbon and rinse it out.

I would worry about the bolt. If the manifold isn't torqued down properly it could warp over time. Additionally, those manifolds were machined for each individual engine. The manifold you are replacing isn't quite the same, so torquing it down is that much more important. Try calling a few machine shops and ask how much they charge to remove the bolt. I paid $20 one time. Another at another machine shop they guy said he didn't like charging for something as simple as removing a bolt (and it is simple if you have the proper tools) and would do it for free if I didn't mine leaving it there for a day or two. So get on the phone and try your luck. Even if you end up paying $40 it is cheaper than the time and expense of doing it over and replacing the intake gasket.
 
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The 2.8 is a dry intake, no coolant goes through it.

I haven't had an intake off of a 2.8 yet but I am going to bet it is for the EGR.

The broken valve cover bolt will need delt with to keep oil in the engine and there is no finer time to deal with it than with the intake manifold off the truck. :icon_thumby:
 
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Dude pics I have to see this
 
Take it to a machine shop and have them clean it, itll be money well spent..
 
The 2.8 is a dry intake, no coolant goes through it.

Unless it was changed during the latter years the 2.8 was out, the thermostat housing is located on the manifold, and if I remember correctly there is a narrow water passage under the port for cylinder #4 and I think it exits at #3. I think the flowthrough was optional. I remember intake manifold gaskets that blocked the one at #3, some had a smaller hole to allow a little water through, and some were open.
 

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